Eastwood Town - A tribute to Gordon's modelling.

[alangdance]

Hi Gordon

Thanks for the great tutorial. I have been thinking about building some 00-SF points. My only issue that I am not to sure of is all my stock is RTR and with the varing standards supplied my the manufactories will the be issues with the stock through the common crossing.

Do you have any dos and don'ts for running RTR stock through the ))-SF points.

 

Alan

[gordon s]

Thanks Alan

 

I can say (based on personal experience) that most RTR stock will run through 00-SF without problem, as will Ultrascales and Markits. That was the sole reason behind my decision to go down this route as the thought of modifying B2B's on all my stock was horrendous. Not only that I've yet to find a easy way of doing steam loco's that does not mess up the quartering in the process.

 

Here is a copy of the 00-SF benefits which should put your mind at rest.

 

 

BENEFITS of 00-SF

=============

 

Improved running characteristics,

Improved appearance, especially of pointwork,

WITH

Unmodified "off-the-shelf" RTR locos & stock

and also many "standard" 00/H0 wheelsets.

AND WITH

The option of using "off-the-shelf" 00/H0 track

within the same layout.

 

Generally, for "scale 00" wheels such as Alan Gibson,

Romford, Markits, etc., they should be supplied set

to 14.5mm back-to-back, and the flange thickness

should be less than 0.7mm.

THEY SHOULD WORK JUST FINE AS THEY ARE.

 

For "RTR 00" wheels they should normally conform

to the NMRA H0 standard with back-to-back set to

14.4mm and flange thickness less than 0.8mm.

THEY SHOULD WORK JUST FINE AS THEY ARE.

 

That's the whole point of 00-SF -- by changing

the gauge to 16.2mm everything works just fine

AS IT IS SUPPLIED.

"Scale 00" and RTR stock runs equally well on

the same track.

 

The ONLY proviso for 00-SF is that you must look

to EM practice as regards minimum radius, train

set curves are not suitable at 16.2mm gauge and

must be widened back to 16.5mm.

[00-SF is sometimes referred to as EM-minus-2]

 

Also of course, the back-to-back for 00-SF must

be more than 14.2mm, which rules out some very

old RTR stock.

[trisonic]

Pete is hunting for 20p pieces (I've got a drawerful somewhere....)

 

Thanks from me Gordon! Will you be doing any plain crossings?

 

Best, Pete.

[gordon s]

...and so we reach the final instalment.

 

By their very design, PCB soldered construction needs an isolation break between the two rails and from both rails to the frog. I use a small slitting disk in my Proxxon equivalent of a Dremel. Here I must admit to cutting a corner as the aficionado's will either fill the slot before painting or very gently sand away an area of the PCB sleeper to break the copper but leave a flat surface. I take my hat off to those who do, but with a large layout such as ET and the fact I'm working on my own, I admit to a compromise here as I don't have the patience to fill in hundreds of slots and sand them down. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it....

 

What I do is to make the slit as near as possible to the nearside rail from the viewing direction. This means that from normal viewing angles it cannot be seen and even when viewed head on, your eyes are drawn to the bright, shiny rail surface and you don't notice the small slit off to one side. Of course if you make it your mission to look for it, then you will see it, but those who choose to take in the big picture won't see it as it is hidden behind the nearside rail.

 

This is what you'll see...or won't see.

 

 

 

Once these are all done, make some electrical checks with a meter/buzzer to ensure there are no whiskers or uncut slots between each of the two rails and that the frog is totally isolated from both. As you recall I use double sided tape to stick down the sleepers and this it does very well. So well in fact, you must be careful removing the paper plan from the back of the turnouts. Over time I have perfected this method which leaves the track in perfect condition. Whatever you do, do not try to slide a blade or a 12" rule between the sleepers and the template. It is likely you will bend the track and ruin all the good work you have just done.

 

Cut the plan from your backing board or sheet of glass and turn it over so that the track is face down. Carefully lift one corner and once started you will be able to hold the track flat with your right hand and pull the plan upwards and back with your left, keeping the pressure on the track at all times. Don't rush it, just take it slowly and you'll have no problems.

 

'Scuse my hairy arms and stabbed finger...

 

 

Final job is to thoroughly wash the finished track in hot soapy water to remove any flux residue or PCB dust from the slitting process. My wife's hobby is our two dogs and to that end we have a large Butler sink in our utility room in which she washes the dogs whilst standing up. This is perfect for washing down point work as it is about 3' long and 15" wide. Once dry, the job is finished and this is what you should end up with.

 

 

I hope you've enjoyed this little journey into the world of making your own track. It's really not as difficult as you would first think. I spent years convincing myself, I could never do that until I eventually plucked up the courage to have a go and bought an SMP point kit. OK, the finished product was not in Norman Soloman's league, but a loco ran through it and the elation you'll feel knowing you made that and it works, will just be the start. The freedom custom made point work gives you in layout design is unbelievable and there really is nothing to beat smooth flowing track work.

 

If you make a start and need some advice, then please ask away and I'll endeavour to help.

Edited May 3, 2012 by gordon s

[Arthur]

Thanks Gordon for an excellent account, really helpful and inspiring. From your descriptions I've drawn together a list of the jigs etc which you've used.

 

EM Gauge Society Crossing V Jig (is that available to non-members?)

 

The following from Brian Tulley;

Pair 00-SF Track Gauges

Pair 00-SF Check Rail Gauges

1mm Shim Gauge

 

Homemade Switch Rail Jig

 

not forgetting the

Bank of England 20p Switch Rail Gauge

 

Is that it? Before I have a go I'd like to get all the necessary bits together.

 

Thanks, Arthur

[Jason T]

If you don't want to stretch to the crossing Vee jig then in the below thread, Brian Harrap suggests a very good way of making your crossing vee's. Maybe not quite as neat (although have you seen Brian's trackwork !!!!) but cheap and simple; it's what I use nowadays, after first spending far too much money on ready made C&L crossing vee's (and now regretting it)

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37678-handbuilt-track/page__st__25

[gordon s]

Sorry Pete, I didn't answer your question. I assume by plain crossings you mean straight ones? If that is the case, then I'll have to make one up as ET track plan doesn't have one single straight turnout, part of the freedom that comes with custom point work. Is there a reason behind your question as the process is exactly the same?

 

Glad to hear you are going to try making your own, Arthur. I suspect you need to be a member of the EM gauge society to buy direct. I'm not, but managed to buy mine from Scaleforum. As Sandside suggests though, they are not entirely necessary and they can be produced as per Brian Harrap. Brian's track work is outstanding so his method clearly works. I'm basically lazy so usually opt for the simplest/quickest solution to a problem and the jigs have proven invaluable for me.

 

They do occasionally come up on eBay, so may be worth checking there from time to time. They were originally made by Portsdown Jigs, but sadly the guy who made them died and so they are now made for the EM Gauge society by another supplier or indeed they may make them themselves.

[martin_wynne]

Sorry Pete, I didn't answer your question. I assume by plain crossings you mean straight ones?

 

I think he means a diamond-crossing, Gordon.

[CHAZ D]

I have just bought a set of gauges from 00-sf.org.uk

Hopefully the P.O will have delivered them today

[gordon s]

I think he means a diamond-crossing, Gordon.

 

Ah, yes that makes sense, Martin.

 

Pete, I have two double junctions to produce at some time or other and I normally build those in one piece along similar lines to these I've just completed. Ahead of that I have a group of four curved turnouts to build and then I'll get back into woodwork etc. If you don't mind waiting a while, then I can do a similar job at the time, unless it's desperately urgent and I'll look at building a small one just for fun.

[trisonic]

Sorry Gordon, yes Diamond Crossings, curved or straight. Around here they refer to "plain crossings" as opposed to switched or slips. I keep slipping into the vernacular.....

 

Thanks, Pete.

[trustytrev]

Hello Gordon,

RE:Switchblades.Yet again your method makes it so simple.

The next step will be to plane up the switch rails, fit them in position and make up the tie bar. I used to hate filing the taper on switch rails and disasters include catching the file on the end of the blade and folding the blade like a concertina, or filing it to a point, slipping and stabbing my thumb or fingers with a few mm of nickel silver rail. Applying some logic to the problem, I 'engineered' this jig and it works perfectly. Blades can be done in a few seconds and injuries have reduced considerably.

 

A piece of scrap wood has been marked up with the planing length for both B and C switches. Both the rail and the block are clamped to the bench and a few seconds with a half inch medium file can easily make the required taper. Once you have done that, make sure you remove all burrs etc from the edges and check for a smooth surface, particularly on the bottom edge, as this has to slide across the other sleepers. Likewise, I should have said to make sure there are no burrs on the other sleepers, as you will often find a small lip on pcb sleepers where the cutting tool has lost its edge.

From your description it appears you only carry out filing to one side only for the planing angle.

I obtained the EMGauge society planing jig which has instructions in the EMG manual advocating a number of filing processes.(Confused again)

So the question is it just as simple as filing one side clamped to a board for the specified planing length as you make no mention to the rail foot?

Thanks.

trustytrev.

[trisonic]

I believe Gordon used Bullhead rail where it is not such an issue. Some American modellers file both rails - Flatbottom- which doesn't look right to me. It is possible to shape the bottom so it fits correctly to the running rail.

Best, Pete.

[gordon s]

Hi Trev.

 

The planing length for a C switch is 36mm and this is the side that butts up against the running rail. The bulk of material is removed from this side. Once that is done, I turn it over and this time it is a very shallow angle that is planed, just sufficient to remove the top and bottom of the bullhead rail, to form a flat, knife edge blade. I would guess the planing length on this side is much less, probably 20mm

 

There is nothing to do to the rail foot. That only applies to flat bottom rail and I'm using bullhead.

[hayfield]

Hi Trev.

 

The planing length for a C switch is 36mm and this is the side that butts up against the running rail. The bulk of material is removed from this side. Once that is done, I turn it over and this time it is a very shallow angle that is planed, just sufficient to remove the top and bottom of the bullhead rail, to form a flat, knife edge blade. I would guess the planing length on this side is much less, probably 20mm

 

There is nothing to do to the rail foot. That only applies to flat bottom rail and I'm using bullhead.

 

 

I think what Trev is saying is that on bullhead tail one side of the botom of the bullhead rail is left alone.

 

I have looked at a set of C&L switch blades are they are right and left handed, on the side that does not touch the stockrail they leave the bottom intact and only file the top of the rail level with the web

[trustytrev]

Hello,

 

on the side that does not touch the stockrail they leave the bottom intact and only file the top of the rail level with the web

I think this is where my confusion has arisen.The EMG society switch blade planining jig has a guard for filing just the top of the rail leaving the bottom untouched.

I think that has helped clarify my understanding.

Thanks

trustytrev.

[martin_wynne]

Gordon is trying to encourage beginners to have a go at turnout building, rather than to create an exact scale model of a prototype switch. If you decide that a blob of solder is ok to represent the chairs, and that the bottom of the rail can be flush to the timbers, it's a bit academic to argue about the exact details of the switch planing and the setting of the stock rail.

 

But for a more detailed guide, see: http://85a.co.uk/for...=491&forum_id=1

 

Only the extreme top corner needs to be a knife edge. The rest of the switch blade can be quite robust at the tip, which helps to create an adequate clearance all along behind it when open. This is a simple model approximation to undercut planing for use with a plain set in the stock rail:

 

regards,

 

Martin.

[Robert McGee]

What section are you working on now Gordon? The detailed walkthrough is amazing, and I thoroughly enjoyed reading it.

[gordon s]

I didn't know that Martin, so thanks for that info. In this case my omission came from ignorance, not necessarily ease of construction. Just thinking about it though, it's academic for my style of dummy sleeper/tie bar, as it will be hidden from view under the solder joint anyway

[gordon s]

What section are you working on now Gordon? The detailed walkthrough is amazing, and I thoroughly enjoyed reading it.

 

Glad you enjoyed it Robert. Apologies, here is a marked up plan showing the next section to be built.

 

[Robert McGee]

Erm, have I missed a whole section of the thread, I don't remember this version, I thought it was completely different?

[gordon s]

I changed it again probably in January to make it even simpler as the time taken with what proved to be a still complex 'simple' plan was all consuming. I decided not to mention it all and got away with it until Jeremy spotted in in post 795. At that point I had to come clean and own up to yet another change. That was at the beginning of March. Hopefully this further simplified plan will take me towards completion in a much shorter timescale. I will still be able to use the station board but will lift some of the complex track formations and replace them with plain track.

[hayfield]

Gordon is trying to encourage beginners to have a go at turnout building, rather than to create an exact scale model of a prototype switch.

regards,

 

Martin.

 

I hope my post was not taken as criticism to the method Gordon is using, as none was intended. I was only trying to clarify what Trev was saying. I use the same method as Gordon by filing both sides fully and certainly in a fiddle yard setting no need to over complicate the building process. Having said a thought comes to mind that a larger footprint on the tiebar could make for a stronger solder joint.

[trustytrev]

Hello,

I realise there are numerous different ways of building track and Gordon has kindly shown us how he does it.Having bought the EM crossing and switch jigs I was hoping to see an explanation on how one does it using the instructions in the EMGauge society manual as that remains a mystery to me.The confusing instructions are possibly why so many people use differing methods to acheive the end result of flowing trackwork.Even using the jigs no two people seem to use them in the same manner or as per the instructions.My curiosity about the official way to use the jigs remains and my bafflement remains undiminished.

Thanks.

trustytrev.

[martin_wynne]

My curiosity about the official way to use the jigs remains and my bafflement remains undiminished.

 

Hi Trev,

 

I've never actually seen these jigs. If you could post some close up photos of them, we may be able to work out how they are intended to be used.

 

regards,

 

Martin.