steve fay Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Hello I'm about to start construction on a new layout. A steam era engine shed. I definitely want to youse C & L track but am not sure about the points. I don't want to build my own no time or patience so it between marcway or peco. As this is a shed the track is going to be very dirty and covered in filth but I still want better looking track. I only need two right hand and three left hand. So what's your experience with marcway are they better looking than peco and what construction method do they youse. Soldered copper clad or rail chairs? Or is there any one else who supplies ready made points in 7mm. I want to start the boards next week and want to get some track down ASAP to keep the interest going so don't really want to wait for a pro to build turn outs for me. Thanks in advance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmrspaul Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Hello I'm about to start construction on a new layout. A steam era engine shed. I definitely want to youse C & L track but am not sure about the points. I don't want to build my own no time or patience so it between marcway or peco. As this is a shed the track is going to be very dirty and covered in filth but I still want better looking track. I only need two right hand and three left hand. So what's your experience with marcway are they better looking than peco and what construction method do they youse. Soldered copper clad or rail chairs? Or is there any one else who supplies ready made points in 7mm. I want to start the boards next week and want to get some track down ASAP to keep the interest going so don't really want to wait for a pro to build turn outs for me. Thanks in advance. Not sure what you are suggesting about Peco. They come ready built, chaired and have some detailing. Marcway are very basic - the one advantage they may have is that not having any chairs, and being low profile (thin sleepers) they may more easily match up with home made plain track. Paul Bartlett Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 In 4mm I used SMP code 75 track and peco code 75 points. Now I model in 7mm I don't mind using C&L track and peck points but if there's something out there that's better I would like to youse it. I have built a small layout yousing peco but having seen C&L it is alot finer in detail. That's why I want to youse it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmrspaul Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 So what's your experience with marcway are they better looking than peco and what construction method do they youse. Soldered copper clad or rail chairs? Thanks in advance. Marcway are really basic, rivets through a fibre sleeper, soldered. Very old technology - even their advert doesn't look like it has altered in my modelling lifetime. They have no detail. So could be suitable for matching with C&L track but I have no idea what "code" either are. We have managed to get Peco and Marcway to work together - but if the Peco double slip had been available we would have used them. Paul Bartlett Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jamie92208 Posted March 29, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 29, 2011 Ii'm just laying track in the shed area of Lancaster Green Ayreand have had a to think hard about this subject in the last few days. All my points are built eith C& L components but reinforced with some brass screws under the crossing at it's narrow point and some bits of copper clad under the vee. The shed area will be filthy and I have plenty of photographs in which the chairs can only just be made out. The plain track will be Peco which matches C&L in height. If I used coppercald /Marcway I would ahve to pack a sheet of cork under it to match the heights. The area that will force the use of C&L on plain track is the various pits of which I have discoverd I need at least 5 on=utside the shed and ear the coaling stage as well as possibly some inside the start of the shed. To do these I will have to lay timber the same height as a sleeper and the width of a chait along each side of the pit then lay the rail in C&L chairs bonded to the wood with mekpak or equivalent. I also use C&L for short lengths of palin track of a few inches between points. Jamie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 I want to start the boards next week and want to get some track down ASAP to keep the interest going so don't really want to wait for a pro to build turn outs for me. Thanks in advance. Hi Steve, If you rush the track building you will only regret it later, you cannot beat the look of C&L pointwork even if most of it will be covered in grime. ATB, Martyn. P.S. Are you a friend of Paul (Ozzy0) ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted March 31, 2011 Author Share Posted March 31, 2011 Hi martyn Yes I am a friend of Ozzy. I know what you mean about C & L track but I've had no experience in building track before. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jamie92208 Posted April 1, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 1, 2011 Don't be frightened by C & L. There instructions are very good and I still use their methods. The only thing that I've changed is to contgruct my crossings as a asub assembly with 4 piecfes of copperclad that i then file off and paint that fit between the sleepers. I also put a 1" No8 brass screw under the narrowest part of the crossing and solder the two wing rails to it. This then strengthens and anchors the whole crossing assembly as well as providing a built in dropper for the power supply to the crossing. If you are interested I will try and post some photos next week when I make my next one. The setr of 4 small roller gauges that C & L sell are also very good value. Jamie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 Jamie Yes I would like to see some pictures that would be great. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jamie92208 Posted April 1, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 1, 2011 Jamie Yes I would like to see some pictures that would be great. I'll be building another crossing at the clubrooms on Monday and will try and get some photos. Jamie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 but I've had no experience in building track before. Fair enough comment but we all had to start somewhere, I built my first point when I was 14 yrs old ( long time ago ) with some guidance from a member of the Brighton modelway club, it was rail soldered to copper paxolin sleepers. But the enjoyment you get from pushing a wagon through the newley completed pointwork is on par with building loco's, it's a very enjoyable part of the hobby and easily learnt with basic turnout's to start with. Surely the fact that you are good friends with Paul, he could help you or steer you in the right direction to have a go yourself, you would not regret it. There are a few threads already on here showing C&L pointwork being built I will try and find some later so you can see what is needed ( not alot ) so no excuses . ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 Hi Steve, Me again, here is an indepth look at point construction, like I say it is indepth but if you take the basic's of the build you will see there's nothing to it http://www.rmweb.co....hp?f=88&t=45544 Alternatively further down the Permanant way and Signaling page there is another member TAZ explaining how to use C&L parts. Hope this is of some help, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 Thanks martyn I will have a look at that Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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