Peco crossing shorting issues?

[Donw]

Another possible answer is to feed one side of the crossing via a 12v bulb. No short the bulb doesn't light train runs. If a short occurs the bulb should light up briefly if it is momentary.

Don

[Suzie]

Jenny

 

This diagram should help.

 

 

I have not shown any frog switching wiring for the points as it is optional (and perfectly straightforward), I have just shown what needs to be wired to the crossing. You can use dead frog or live frog points, but if using dead frogs you will need to wire a link between the two frog rails because otherwise they will be isolated from each other.

 

This solution is not about operational perfection but is about wiring simplicity. The polarity of the crossing is controlled by the polarity of points A and B. As long as only one of the points A or B is set for the crossing the polarity will be correct, so as long as you can remember to not set conflicting routes through the crossing you will be fine.

 

There is no way that I would touch dead frogs with a bargepole, but if you do use them you should wire them just the same as live frogs with insulated joiners on the frog rails and join the frog rails together - this will eliminate the shorting problem completely and partially alleviate the 'deadness', paint the frog with 'Elecolit' or similar conductive paint to completely remove the deadness - silly to paint a dead frog with insulating material to make it deader. I find the built-in switching of Peco points to be unreliable, but you can add PL15 or microswitches later if you have a problem, you will probably need to use a slitting saw to make code 100 'DCC-Friendly' anyway and this can be done after the track is laid.

[Grovenor]

As long as only one of the points A or B is set for the crossing the polarity will be correct, so as long as you can remember to not set conflicting routes through the crossing you will be fine.

Interlocking to prevent both crossovers being reversed at the same time is normal on the prototype as well. A simple solution is to use a 3-position switch with the centre position for straight and turn to the left for one crossover or to the right for the other, works best with tortoise or similar motors but can be used with solenoids as well if you add a pushbutton so you select with the switch and press to set.

Regards

Keith

[WolfofBadenoch]

Hi

 

I've just installed a peco short diamond crossing on my layout. I've not put in any insulation, switches or extra wiring. I've only tried 2 locos so far but a Bachmann 37 at very slow speed shorts out my dcc controller, but not always. Seems better, at faster speeds. A Limby 87 is better, but i'd like to try it a bit more before giving a definitive answer. As alot of my stock is 80's and some 90's Hornby/Lima i'm apprenhensive about more shorts.

 

I think i'll be using Olddudders nail varnish trick - thanks for the tip!

[Crewlisle]

If you are using Code 100 Electrofrog points for DCC there is no need to change the frog polarity. This is a myth - Code 75 probably but Code 100 not required. I speak from many years of exhibitions as I have 32 Peco Code 100 Electrofrogs on my DCC layout and providing the contact surfaces on the inside of the moveable rails are kept clean, movement not fouled by small particles of ballast under the moveable rail or the small contact tabs on the underside of the rails, you should have no problems. The only polarity switches on my layout are on the live diamond activated via two Peco PL-13 accessory switches mounted on the adjacent point motor. I use an auto reverser for my reversing loop.

 

I use Peco PL-10 motors and find them very reliable with plenty of 'oomph' to throw the point to ensure mechanical and electrical continuity. I also object to paying almost half the cost of a small diesel for a slow action point motor; I would sooner add the same amount again and buy a loco! As for control, do not go down the DCC route as this will be more codes you have to remember!. I use a capacitor discharge unit fed from a 16V or 24V supply. The points are fed via a ring main with three mini track diagrams mounted in the operating well. One wire from each end of the motor solenoid is fed back to the studs on the diagrams. Using the Peco bifurcated studs on each of the routes shown on the diagrams and a probe, point motors can be set by just touching the studs. Simple, effective and you can see where you want to send your trains.