ktundu99 Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 Apologies if this has been asked before, but I didn't find it. I'm forward-planning to my next layout which will probably be in 009. Off-the-shelf 009 trackwork seems rather coarse to me and doesn't seem to be a good representation of lightly-laid NG trackwork. Are 2fs standards applicable to 009 track as well, and has anyone tried this? It'll be diesel/industrial so no headaches with steam loco wheels... Cheers Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyvern Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 I believe a number of people have used 2mm finescale standards with Narrow gauge models. You could either build to 9.42mm gauge and use the association gauges and jigs or build to 9mm gauge (as per FS160). I assume that you would want to use heavier section rail than code 40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Echo Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 (edited) According to a study done within the Scalefour Society, 2mm scale wheel and flange gap standards are good for sub-3ft gauge lines in the UK. Anything wider and standard gauge standards are best. By adapting 2mm roller gauges, you could build your track to any gauge you like - including 8mmish for near 2ft gauge lines. It has definitely been done. There was at least one model of the Ffestiniog Railway built to scale gauge a few years ago. With steam locos, the number of spokes on 2FS wheels would be a problem, but for diesels with disc wheels, you would be fine. Edited April 15, 2016 by Echo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill-lobb Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 Have I missed something? I wanted a quick and easy PO wagon so went looking for a Mathieson one. The website I had for them no longer worked and shops selling them were almost entirely out of stock? Its some years since I last looked. Are they still available? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted April 24, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 24, 2016 Have I missed something? I wanted a quick and easy PO wagon so went looking for a Mathieson one. The website I had for them no longer worked and shops selling them were almost entirely out of stock? Its some years since I last looked. Are they still available? Hi, The manufacturer told me a while back he has stopped production. Nig H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill-lobb Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 Hi, The manufacturer told me a while back he has stopped production. Nig H Thank you. That is a shame - back to converting the association 1907 RCH kits to end door versions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendreladis Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 Thank you. That is a shame - back to converting the association 1907 RCH kits to end door versions. I am ' the manufacturer' and there are still a few available in the pre-printed versions but no kits. If anyone is interested drop me a PM but they are only available in batches of ten or more. None of the very limited runs are left. Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mil Graham Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 "Plus Daughters" had some Mathiesons wagons at Epsom last weekend. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modfather Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Has anyone got a copy of the instructions for 2-384 peco tank underframe they can send me please? Between not being able to find these and trying to sort an under etched toad I'm ready to head back to p4! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Has anyone got a copy of the instructions for 2-384 peco tank underframe they can send me please? Between not being able to find these and trying to sort an under etched toad I'm ready to head back to p4! Not sure there ever were any! But the standard set of RCH underframe instructions (e.g. for 2-383) which can be donwloaded from the Shop 2 website cover most of it. http://2mm.org.uk/products/instruction_sheets/pdf2-329-etc.pdf The special features are 1. Underframe part 1 has four tabs that fold up to simulate portions of the framing. These also locate the brakegear 2. Brakes have two types - 2d for double-side brakes and 2m for Morton. You only use one. Again there are a couple of extra tabs that fold up to simulate framing 3. Part 9 also is framing for the ends, fold it into a V with the short centre section at the bottom. 4. Parts 10, 11 and 14 are body detailing. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modfather Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 I was lost for part 9. Cheers Chris - time to go and make holes with the rsu! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 I was lost for part 9. Cheers Chris - time to go and make holes with the rsu! It's somewhat optional, and quite possibly doesn't fit in conjunction with the DG coupling mounts if they are used. But it does not take long to find out. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
117puzzler Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 Hi there. Sorry to butt in but Hope someone can shead some light on which of the association coach wheels I would need convert the newer graham farish mk1 stock to run on finescale track. Cheers Adam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted May 27, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 27, 2016 Hi there. Sorry to butt in but Hope someone can shead some light on which of the association coach wheels I would need convert the newer graham farish mk1 stock to run on finescale track. Cheers Adam. If it's the latest design blue riband mk1's then it's 7mm on 15.2's you need. Code 2-025 from shop 3. Izzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted May 27, 2016 Share Posted May 27, 2016 If it's the latest design blue riband mk1's then it's 7mm on 15.2's you need. Code 2-025 from shop 3. Izzy Not necessarily. Some have B4 bogies for which you need 6mm wheels, and if I recall correctly with shorter axles. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
117puzzler Posted May 28, 2016 Share Posted May 28, 2016 Thanks Izzy,chris Just my look shop 3 is out of stock of 2-025 so things will have to wait a little longer Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Not sure where this would best go, but thought I'd share it anyway. Taken from the window of the Plymouth to Paddington HST somewhere just outside Westbury. I thought it a perfect example of mix 'n' matching rails on the real railway. The bullhead rail is a short length to a buffer stop and the flat bottom makes up the rest of the siding 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted May 30, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 30, 2016 Not being able to get to rail ex the question is how did they get on with the build a layout in a weekend? Any photos? Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millerhillboy Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 Hope you don't mind an not gauge modeller asking what you 2mm guys use for locomotive lamps. The only ones I ever seem to come across are the Springside range which to my eye eye are a bit clunky. Any help much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 Hope you don't mind an not gauge modeller asking what you 2mm guys use for locomotive lamps. The only ones I ever seem to come across are the Springside range which to my eye eye are a bit clunky. Any help much appreciated. There is a range of 3d printed loco lamps being developed by Modelu which should be available soon. I believe that they will be available direct from the manufacturer (google 'Modelu' to find the website) as well as via the 2mm Scale Association. I saw some samples a couple of months back, and they looked rather nice (and rather small as you'd expect!) Hope that helps, Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted June 12, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 12, 2016 Today's silly question concerns a converted Farish Jinty it runs jerky in one direction at very low speed but not in the reverse direction where its quite smooth , any ideas as to likely cause? thanks Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 (edited) End-float on the motor shaft. It likes where it is when running in one direction, but not where the torque reactions shove it when going the other way. Work out where it is when going the way it likes and introduce some means of keeping it there when going the other way (thrust washers being the best option) Edited June 12, 2016 by mike morley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted June 13, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 13, 2016 End-float on the motor shaft. It likes where it is when running in one direction, but not where the torque reactions shove it when going the other way. Work out where it is when going the way it likes and introduce some means of keeping it there when going the other way (thrust washers being the best option) not sure I will be able to do anything about that with my technical abilities its very odd it runs but visibly stutters and then picks up again thanks Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted June 13, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 13, 2016 Today's silly question concerns a converted Farish Jinty it runs jerky in one direction at very low speed but not in the reverse direction where its quite smooth , any ideas as to likely cause? thanks Nick Hi Nick, I've converted several Jinties and 4Fs now, all of which run very well, and what I've found is that they need more play in the coupling rod/ crankpin hole than I would normally allow on a kit or scratch chassis. The issue isn't quartering but I believe slack in the bearings - not the axle in the bearings but the bearings in the Farish chassis block where there is a fair bit of slop. Double check your quartering to make sure its spot on but also open up your crankpin holes a few more thou. Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted June 13, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 13, 2016 Its better than it was but still lurches at TDC on one side, to be fair I was running it ultra slow on DCC at a speed I can normally only coax DEMU's etc to run at thanks Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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