Any Question Answered

[zephyr9900]

Hello all, I'm a recovering "armchair modeler" in the process of rejoining the Association.  I've set a goal of having a running exhibition layout by the start of next year, using two 4 x 1 foot baseboards plus a 16-inch by 1 foot extension for a traverser (I'm assuming that is what is meant by "train table" but I'm a foreigner living abroad...)

 

All of the display layouts here are similar to Ntrak and T-track in that they are large rectangles or other meandering shapes that are inherently stable on the floor.  I plan to mount my long, shallow layout at a 54-inch height, and worry about the fore-and-aft stability, especially on the typical carpeted floor of the local convention centers.

 

I've played with the idea of ballasting the spreaders at the bottom of the legs with large, water-filled containers, or is that a daft idea and I should make deeper legs that protrude behind the layout--it is to be front-operated so I don't want to be tripping over front-protruding legs?

 

I'll appreciate any advice and/or experience.

 

Randy

[Donw]

A traintable can rotate so the trains can be reversed by simply turning the table. The tracks have to have the ends splayed out so each track will be at the correct angle to match with the access track. A traverser moves laterally so that a number of straight roads can each be aligned with the access track. It does not provide any means of reversing the trains.

Angling the legs outward just a little adds to the stability of a layout.

Don

[zephyr9900]

Thank you, Don. (light comes on) traintable = train + turntable.  That makes sense.  I'm envisioning the traverser to have three cassettes forming its tracks, that can be attended to at longer intervals.

 

So I'll take it that forward-projecting legs (or at least feet) won't present a significant tripping hazard, and providing curtains will be enough of a visual cue to avoiding them?  The increased depth of the base will help the stability much (even 6 inches front and back will double the depth of the support).  Maybe I could make parallel legs and thin projecting aluminum plates at the bottom?  It would be just moving the "fulcrum" outwards that I would need.  Thank you for sparking the train of thought!

 

Randy

[MrSimon]

Hi all,

 

What's the best way to attach bogies and roofs when building coach kits?

 

In the past I've always been an evo-stick kind of guy (for roofs), but I've got some etches in my drawer that I don't think evo-stick will be the best thing to use.

 

I'm assuming bolts are best for bogies, do I need to solder/glue a nut into the floor?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Simon

 

[edited to add the coaches]

Edited March 12, 2016 by MrSimon

[RichardW1]

Hi all,

What's the best way to attach bogies and roofs when building coach kits?

In the past I've always been an evo-stick kind of guy (for roofs), but I've got some etches in my drawer that I don't think evo-stick will be the best thing to use.

I'm assuming bolts are best for bogies, do I need to solder/glue a nut into the floor?

Thanks in advance

Simon

[edited to add the coaches]

Depends if you want to take the roof off for painting, or detailing the interior. If it is permanent then superglue is often adequate. I have a gwr auto trailer where the roof slides off, L shaped latches on the roof engage with ribs spanning between the sides.

Bogies are best fitted with bolts, 12BA is normal, these can engage into nots, soldered onto the floor, or tapped holes. However there are 'nut runners' available (basically a 12BA socket spanner, that can hold a loose nut internally, while you screw the bolt in. ( I prefer a tapped hole, or soldered nut personally) it is a good idea to obtain a suitable tap to clean out the threads in a nut if you solder them in place, solder can easily get where it's not wanted

 

Good luck with your endeavours

Richard

[Caley Jim]

I'm assuming bolts are best for bogies, do I need to solder/glue a nut into the floor?

 

 

I find the best way is to tap a 12BA hole in a piece of 30 or 40thou brass and solder that into the inside of the floor.  Screw it into place with a bolt though the bogie pivot hole having first smeared the bolt in vaseline, Then solder around the edges of the brass.  That way you're less likely to get solder in the thread and even if it does get near the bolt the vaseline will stop the bolt getting soldered in.

 

Jim

[nick_bastable]

another question what road surface were used in goods yards an country roads just after WW1 /1920?  and how to represent them in 2mm ?

[JohnBS]

another question what road surface were used in goods yards an country roads just after WW1 /1920?  and how to represent them in 2mm ?

Nick,

In rural areas, I am fairly sure that most would have been just crushed rock or cinders/clinker or hoggin (mixed clay and gravel), depending on local availability. Only intensely-used (urban) ones would be paved with setts or cobbles. I don't think that many would have used blacktop or concrete in the 1920s.

On Ashburton and Totnes, I have made a base of slightly rutted and pitted Polyfilla, reinforced with PVA and coloured with emulsion paint. When dry, I then cover with diluted PVA and sprinkle with very fine sand mixed with dry Polyfilla and paint as required. I distress it and pick out the odd potholes where appropriate, especially at the entrance from any paved roads.

I hope that this helps,

John

[Pyewipe Jct]

another question what road surface were used in goods yards an country roads just after WW1 /1920?  and how to represent them in 2mm ?

From my archaeology day-job, the typical make up of a roadway surface prior to the introduction of tarmacadam was usually finely-graded stone either mixed with mortar or packed with earth. Cobbles or sets are quite common, but mainly restricted to specific areas of heavy usage (be that in a farmyard or goods yard), as John says.

 

I have an album of photos taken in Lincolnshire in the period you're after, & the majority of the surfaces look to be finely graded stone/stone & earth (or possibly just earth in the case of some of the more lightly used sidings, I suspect), although cobbles do appear from time to time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HTH,

Kevin

[Caley Jim]

On Connerburn I used thinned down DAS, brushed on and then treated in a similar way to that described by John BS.  The beauty of DAS is that you can wet already dried areas and remodel them or blend in new bits quite easily.  It's also not as heavy as plaster or as prone to chipping.

 

Jim

[Guest bri.s]

On Connerburn I used thinned down DAS, brushed on and then treated in a similar way to that described by John BS. The beauty of DAS is that you can wet already dried areas and remodel them or blend in new bits quite easily. It's also not as heavy as plaster or as prone to chipping.

 

Jim

I used das on a few projects and like you say great to use ,although I did encounter a bit of shrinkage when drying on one ,I used it for a station platform surface and not sure if I used too much PVA or painted it before it had hardened but it shrunk slightly ,not much but noticeable

 

Brian

[Echo]

I am thinking of buying a Farish Midland Pullman and converting it to 2FS. Could anyone tell me if any of the 2mm conversion wheel sets fit, please. I have tried searching here and the 2mm Yahoo Group but can't find anything relevant.

[nick_bastable]

I am thinking of buying a Farish Midland Pullman and converting it to 2FS. Could anyone tell me if any of the 2mm conversion wheel sets fit, please. I have tried searching here and the 2mm Yahoo Group but can't find anything relevant.

I expect its like the CEP  in which case Gordon made a lovely job of turning down the Farish pin point axles.  Both mine run a treat which reminds me I have  a third to get converted

 

Nick

[modfather]

Try messaging pixie, he has one running on finescale.

[Donw]

Hi all,

 

What's the best way to attach bogies and roofs when building coach kits?

 

In the past I've always been an evo-stick kind of guy (for roofs), but I've got some etches in my drawer that I don't think evo-stick will be the best thing to use.

 

I'm assuming bolts are best for bogies, do I need to solder/glue a nut into the floor?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Simon

 

[edited to add the coaches]

 

 

I have a 7mm Steam Railcar with the roof removable. This was done by soldering strips of brass across the top of the sides at both ends. tapped with a suitable hole. A cast roof vent has been drilled for a length of 10 BA rodding to be fitted (araldite). The roof is then fixed into place by screwing the rodding through holes into the roof through the brass strips, using the cast roof vent as the handle to twist the rodding. Obviously this would be more fiddly in 2mm but  I wonder if using a bit of 14ba it would be feasible in 2mm. Anyway I offer it as a suggestion it anyone needs to make the roof removable.

Don

[Llangerisech]

I am thinking of buying a Farish Midland Pullman and converting it to 2FS. Could anyone tell me if any of the 2mm conversion wheel sets fit, please. I have tried searching here and the 2mm Yahoo Group but can't find anything relevant.

Hi,

 

If you haven't bought it yet, then Jim Allwood has one ready-converted for sale - see the newsletter that arrived today. If converting one, the geared axles are available- use the 7mm ones. But as yet, the drop-in sets don't include 7mm pin-point versions. You can use conventional coach wheels on the middle cars, but overall, I reckon getting the whole lot turned by the Association service is the way to go on these units at the moment. I did mine myself on a lathe, but this is the same as using Gordon's turning service. The sets run beautifully, so it is worth doing.

 

regards

Nigel

[DavidLong]

Hi,

 

If you haven't bought it yet, then Jim Allwood has one ready-converted for sale - see the newsletter that arrived today. If converting one, the geared axles are available- use the 7mm ones. But as yet, the drop-in sets don't include 7mm pin-point versions. You can use conventional coach wheels on the middle cars, but overall, I reckon getting the whole lot turned by the Association service is the way to go on these units at the moment. I did mine myself on a lathe, but this is the same as using Gordon's turning service. The sets run beautifully, so it is worth doing.

 

regards

Nigel

The most surprising thing about this post, Nigel, is that you have a Blue Pullman set. Where on earth do you run it!?

 

Yours, very much intrigued

 

David

Edited March 27, 2016 by DavidLong

[Guest bri.s]

Hi guys

 

Any ideas where I can get instanter couplings

I've had a look and can't find anyone that does them ,I wouldn't mind them for some of my fixed rakes

 

Thanks

 

Brian

[Llangerisech]

The most surprising thing about this post, Nigel, is that you have a Blue Pullman set. Where on earth do you run it!?

 

Yours, very much intrigued

 

David

Hello David,

 

It's very much a Rule 1 device - a bit like the green Western and Britannia - all replicating OO stuff I had as a kid. Of course when we start to run Llangerisech in 1960s mode (hopefully soon) it could be on a charter..............

 

regards

Nigel

[queensquare]

Hello David,

 

It's very much a Rule 1 device - a bit like the green Western and Britannia - all replicating OO stuff I had as a kid. Of course when we start to run Llangerisech in 1960s mode (hopefully soon) it could be on a charter..............

 

regards

Nigel

 

I was very tempted by one for similar reasons but have managed to resist. That said, now I know Nigel has got one, its been finescaled and chipped, it really opens up the possibilities for guest appearances at Uckfield in October......:-)

 

Jerry

[Chris Higgs]

Hi,

 

If you haven't bought it yet, then Jim Allwood has one ready-converted for sale - see the newsletter that arrived today. If converting one, the geared axles are available- use the 7mm ones. But as yet, the drop-in sets don't include 7mm pin-point versions. You can use conventional coach wheels on the middle cars, but overall, I reckon getting the whole lot turned by the Association service is the way to go on these units at the moment. I did mine myself on a lathe, but this is the same as using Gordon's turning service. The sets run beautifully, so it is worth doing.

 

regards

Nigel

 

Do the driving axles have 16 teeth gears? Most Farish locos do, but the DMUs have a 15 tooth gear, and so apparently does the Prototype Deltic.

[Llangerisech]

Do the driving axles have 16 teeth gears? Most Farish locos do, but the DMUs have a 15 tooth gear, and so apparently does the Prototype Deltic.

Hi Chris,

 

Just counted them and the unit uses 15 tooth gears with 7.0 mm wheels. I didn't bother checking the compatability with the drop in sets personally as everything was turned using the original components. I suppose that renders my earlier comment incorrect if the 7mm drop in sets have 16 teeth. I still reckon that turning is the best solution for these units simply to maintain consistency across the three different types of axle used.

 

regards

Nigel

[Llangerisech]

I was very tempted by one for similar reasons but have managed to resist. That said, now I know Nigel has got one, its been finescaled and chipped, it really opens up the possibilities for guest appearances at Uckfield in October......:-)

 

Jerry

Well it certainly is converted and chipped, so could be borrowed along with some of the more "legitimate" stuff I was planning on bringing. How much hijacking does John permit???

 

best regards

Nigel

[queensquare]

Well it certainly is converted and chipped, so could be borrowed along with some of the more "legitimate" stuff I was planning on bringing. How much hijacking does John permit???

 

best regards

Nigel

 

If Nigel Cliffe can bring the stock of the ACE through from Padstow with an 02 (not the ex LSWR 0-4-4T variety!) then I don't think you have any fears on the legitimacy front. John is a big believer in the motto 'model railroading is fun'.

 

Jerry

[Chris Higgs]

Hi Chris,

 

Just counted them and the unit uses 15 tooth gears with 7.0 mm wheels. I didn't bother checking the compatability with the drop in sets personally as everything was turned using the original components. I suppose that renders my earlier comment incorrect if the 7mm drop in sets have 16 teeth. I still reckon that turning is the best solution for these units simply to maintain consistency across the three different types of axle used.

 

regards

Nigel

 

The current diesel wheelsets for 7mm do have the 16 tooth gears. But Nigel Cliffe told me he is happy to consider making sets up of unusual combinations as the components all exist, its just a matter of putting them together. Given the lack of anything to do the trailing wheels pinpoints, it does seem that turning them down is an easier option, albeit irreversible.

 

I suspect the Blue Pullman is one of the prototypes where there are more 2FS examples than there were in real life. Ditto the prorotype Deltic.