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Anchorage D11 Motor


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Hi everyone,

I have a two kit locos fitted with D11 motors which I sometimes use for double heading.After 20 years one of the motors has failed and I need a replacement.I know that they are no longer availiable,so,does anyone have a spare or are able to suggest a replacement?

The engine is a DJH Caledonian Railway 439 class 0-4-4 tank.

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Hi everyone,

I have a two kit locos fitted with D11 motors which I sometimes use for double heading.After 20 years one of the motors has failed and I need a replacement.I know that they are no longer availiable,so,does anyone have a spare or are able to suggest a replacement?

The engine is a DJH Caledonian Railway 439 class 0-4-4 tank.

Hi there,

 

The D11 is known as a H113 to other suppliers.

 

Branchlines used to stock this but I'm not sure at present if they have stock. Another alternate supplier could be Roxey Mouldings.

 

For a different approach....

 

Go to High level Kits website

 

http://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/

 

Use there size charts to see if there is another option.

 

You need to know the shaft size, the distance between the mounting screws and gear ratio you prefer to make best use of the site.

 

If all else fails - send me a pm and I'll see if I still have any burried away in the bits box :good:

 

Thanks

Thanks

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Thanks for both replies,Ralph R,I've sent you a PM.

 

I also have some Anchoridge motors to sell to anyone who wants spares. Some DS10 and some DS11.

PM me if interested, otherwise they will go to ebay.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

The D11 & D13 were excellent motors, (although unsuited to DCC) but to my knowledge haven't been in production for many years. One minor drawback was always the lack of a solder tag for the insulated brush holder. Great care needs to be taken to avoid melting the plastic insulation, if attempting to solder a wire direct to the screw-in holder.. I used to back this out a little, then add a bit of fret scrap with a slot cut in it to clear the thread, soldering the pickup wire to this instead......

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Guest Belgian

The D11 & D13 were excellent motors, (although unsuited to DCC) but to my knowledge haven't been in production for many years. One minor drawback was always the lack of a solder tag for the insulated brush holder. Great care needs to be taken to avoid melting the plastic insulation, if attempting to solder a wire direct to the screw-in holder.. I used to back this out a little, then add a bit of fret scrap with a slot cut in it to clear the thread, soldering the pickup wire to this instead......

Chris - You say the D11 & D13 were unsuited to DCC operation. I had no idea that some motors were unsuitable: can you enlighten me as to why this is so, and tell me if there is a general rule as to which motors are or aren't suitable so I can make sure I avoid those that don't qualify. Or is it just trial and error?

 

Thanks

 

JE

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The D11 & D13 were excellent motors, (although unsuited to DCC) but to my knowledge haven't been in production for many years. One minor drawback was always the lack of a solder tag for the insulated brush holder. Great care needs to be taken to avoid melting the plastic insulation, if attempting to solder a wire direct to the screw-in holder.. I used to back this out a little, then add a bit of fret scrap with a slot cut in it to clear the thread, soldering the pickup wire to this instead......

 

I always used a similar approach but with 5thou brass shim and a thinner insulating washer to avoid reducing the spring pressure on the brush.

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Chris - You say the D11 & D13 were unsuited to DCC operation. I had no idea that some motors were unsuitable: can you enlighten me as to why this is so, and tell me if there is a general rule as to which motors are or aren't suitable so I can make sure I avoid those that don't qualify. Or is it just trial and error?

 

Thanks

 

JE

 

The reason is that one motor brush is permanently connected, both mechanically & electrically, to the motor frame, & therefore earth (i.e. the chassis)... DCC relies on isolating the power supply between the wheels and motor brushes. You could get round it by using fully insulated wheelsets & pickups, then making the chassis the 'earth' connection from the chip to the motor. It's achievable, but less hassle is involved if you choose a motor with two insulated brushes, & therefore no electrical connection to the frames....

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