Katier Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 Hi All, I'm about to embark on building an N10 'shot down' version of the 7mm N10 in 3mm/ft scale. Due to the kit being nominally 14.2mm and my gauge being 12mm I am starting with the chassis then building the body as I will need to tweak the body to suit the narrower chassis. The question I have is about the trailing wheels. There are two options in the kit, a rear 'bogey' which I believe is non-prototypical but prejumably better on tighter curves, or a fixed frame. I figured I would ask you knowledgeable people for advice on the best way to handle the trailing wheels before I start building the chassis. The layout has a minimum curve radius of just over 450mm/18" which is roughly the minimum that the 3mm Intermediate 12mm gauge specifies ( according to templot) and I've kept all points and curves above that radius. Thanks Kat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ArthurK Posted July 28, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 28, 2011 Kat The original had a radial axle at the rear. It is worth noting the the frames at the rear were set at 3' 10" whereas the main frames were approximately 4' 3". This is 1.25mm in 3mm scale which might help a little. I assume that the frames that you have are one piece. If so then setting the frames to a narrower width at the rear might pose a problem. If you want to get around tight curves there is little alternative but to taper the frames in at the rear. If you use a swinging bogie put the pivot point as far as possible from the axle to minimise the angle change of the wheels. ArthurK Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katier Posted July 28, 2011 Author Share Posted July 28, 2011 Thanks Arthur, The frames are, indeed, 1 piece but I see no problem with cutting the rear section. The frame spacers will be white metal ( the kit only comes with 14.2 spacers so I replace them with 12mm WM ones) so I could narrow the spacers for that section? Narrowing the frame at the back was certainly something I had considered. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted July 28, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 28, 2011 Hi Kat, When I built my 4mm version many years ago I decided to build it with the trailing pony truck, it doesn't move very much but quite a lot more and easier than the radial version would. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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