SNCF stephen Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 I am currently investigating the possibility of creating a few models from a mould (that I am looking into having manufactured). I have been told a technique to make copies would be to use Resin is possible. I have found a very well illustrated pictorial of the technique involved on a French site and was wondering if some people could help me with understanding the process a little better. Here is the link where my knowledge comes from http://le-forum-du-n...oulage-silicone I was wondering what the Blue substance is? Is that Silicone? Has anyone got any experience with this technique? Is it effective? Are there any hints or tips? Just as a disclaimer, I am intending to do this on a model I am having made for me and not to copy other people's models/copyright works! Many thanks Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNCF stephen Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 Just so as everyone knows I have reported the multiple posts as an issue. I cannot figure out how to delete the other two. Sorry about that! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest baldrick25 Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 The technique is very well established , and works well. The only problem though is that the casting cannot be better than the mould or the original pattern, so an enormous amount of time can be taken making them to the best they can be. There's lots on Youtube , here is one Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted August 1, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 1, 2011 Alan Darg did an article for the gauge 0 guild when I was editor I took all the pictures. Key things are the need to be able to get the master and the castings out of the mould. Silicone is flexible which helps but its easy to do say a piece of stone wall where the back is not modelled and is intended to be used against a bank. whereas a double sided mould for a pice of drystone wall might be a pig to get out of a mould. Funny shapes can also be a problem with air locks. Generally it is a bit of learning curve on how to do it. The firm Alex Tiranti used to be a commonly used supplier. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNCF stephen Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 Thank you all for your help. It does look like quite an expensive technique though so I am not sure if I will use it as a method of replication. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest baldrick25 Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Thank you all for your help. It does look like quite an expensive technique though so I am not sure if I will use it as a method of replication. Silverfox is perhaps the best known user of this casting technique , and an 'oo' body straight from the moulds , undecorated , undetailed, but slightly fettled as required, used to sell for £40 -ish a time. Typically a mould will make 50 or so completed castings before the detail begins to fail and you make another. Good luck, I've tried some small castings using bathsealant type cartridges, 'back to black' as a release agent, and 10 minute epoxy as the resin. Things like wagon 'W' Irons + springs etc save a lot of modelling hours , and are excellent on detail. Maybe I should write it up, and post it in a seperate thread. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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