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Gaugemaster Model D wiring issue


scots region

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Hello all, this is one that's been in the works for a bit, I "recently" managed to convince my 2011 Hornby club model to run on my layout. Now for control purposes I use a gaugemaster model D ac cotroller. But since it has been so long since I ran anything I've encountered a probelm:

 

post-9274-0-92202700-1313764952_thumb.jpg

 

Using this wiring set up, I cannot alter the speed or direction of the model. So can any one who uses a Gaugemaster D know of a possible solution to this probelm? Please advise

 

Yours

ScR

Gone and soon forgotten

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Ouch that looks wrong - can you identify which colour wire is going where?

 

Track power (presumably black and blue) should be the RH two screws (or LH two screws on Control Knob 2) - that is 2 leads connected to the track. ie move either the black or the blue

 

I don't know what else you are driving off 12v and 16v but they both will need 2 leads as they are separate circuits. what are the orange and purple for?

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OOO-er! the diagram in your photo actually tells you what to put in where. Working right to left - whatever coloured wires go to your track (there should only be two) get plugged into the first two sockets (one in each!), !2 volt controlled output A. The next two sockets are for 12v DC accesories like points. The next two are for accessories that need a 16v AC supply, and the two leftmost are 12v controlled output B - these are for when( just as an example) you have a 4th radius oval with a 3rd radius oval inside it and want to run two trains in different directions - BUT if you have a pair of points connected between then YOU MUST HAVE INSULATED JOINERS IN EACH RAIL BETWEEN THE TWO OVALS. You could (as another example) have an oval main line with a goods yard which you want to shunt while running a passenger around and around on the main - again a set of insulated joiners MUST be between the point off the mainline and the shunting yard. Connect the two A wires to the oval and the two B wires to the shunting yard. If you don't understand what I'm saying please send me a PM with your email address and I'll draw a diagram for you.

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Ouch that looks wrong - can you identify which colour wire is going where?

 

Track power (presumably black and blue) should be the RH two screws (or LH two screws on Control Knob 2) - that is 2 leads connected to the track. ie move either the black or the blue

 

I don't know what else you are driving off 12v and 16v but they both will need 2 leads as they are separate circuits. what are the orange and purple for?

 

 

I'll get on to finding that out and.... yeeeah its not hard to see why I hit the trip switch before I do this.

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OOO-er! the diagram in your photo actually tells you what to put in where. Working right to left - whatever coloured wires go to your track (there should only be two) get plugged into the first two sockets (one in each!), !2 volt controlled output A. The next two sockets are for 12v DC accesories like points. The next two are for accessories that need a 16v AC supply, and the two leftmost are 12v controlled output B - these are for when( just as an example) you have a 4th radius oval with a 3rd radius oval inside it and want to run two trains in different directions - BUT if you have a pair of points connected between then YOU MUST HAVE INSULATED JOINERS IN EACH RAIL BETWEEN THE TWO OVALS. You could (as another example) have an oval main line with a goods yard which you want to shunt while running a passenger around and around on the main - again a set of insulated joiners MUST be between the point off the mainline and the shunting yard. Connect the two A wires to the oval and the two B wires to the shunting yard. If you don't understand what I'm saying please send me a PM with your email address and I'll draw a diagram for you.

 

Right so no wires in the AC/DC outports, just track control?

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If no wiring diagram test with flying leads.

 

Disconnect all 4 wires and run a new wire from each of the RH pair of terminals to one each side of a straight length of track on the layout. Jumper leads with crocodile clips are ideal for this - and will be useful in the future. Then using a meter (or a 12v light bulb) test which pair of those coloured leads shows power across them.

 

This sounds as if it is a layout acquired not of your making? It may sound a difficult task but rewiring might not be such a bad idea - at least it will enable full understanding of what you have.

 

Of course a wiring diagram should help enormously.

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If no wiring diagram test with flying leads.

 

Disconnect all 4 wires and run a new wire from each of the RH pair of terminals to one each side of a straight length of track on the layout. Jumper leads with crocodile clips are ideal for this - and will be useful in the future. Then using a meter (or a 12v light bulb) test which pair of those coloured leads shows power across them.

 

This sounds as if it is a layout acquired not of your making? It may sound a difficult task but rewiring might not be such a bad idea - at least it will enable full understanding of what you have.

 

Of course a wiring diagram should help enormously.

 

Your right, the layout was made by an old friend, sadly no longer with us. Which means I'll have to talk to his family over the diagram

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