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Circular Saw or Sander


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I have a 12" disc sander (from Axminster Tools) on which you can angle the rest to 45 degrees, I use this a lot for skirting boards and the like. I've not tried it on plastics (it works on Aluminium though) but the discs are self-adhesive and easily changed. It was expensive (around the £100 mark) but I have used it far more than my Dremel.

 

A chap I used to work with made one using an old washing machine motor and It works well, but I don't think he can angle the rest on his. Could be done though.

 

Ed

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I bought a guillotine from proops which works quite well for cutting plastic section, British made in plastic and costs around £10 including postage : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MULTI-ANGLE-CRAFT-AND-HOBBY-GUILLOTINE-/290504157728

 

I've also heard good things about Proxxon tools - their minature circular saw is around £100 - http://proxxondirect.com/site/cat/_c6/27006

 

Andy

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David,

 

With my experience of trying to cut plastic with a circular saw, I would say don't bother. Unless you can bring the speed of the saw right down, you end up with the plastic melting. Styrene sheet is even worse.

 

You'd be much better off with a high quality hand mitre saw used by picture framers and the like.

 

Don't be tempted to buy a cheap one.....I did and the results were not good as the blade and bed were not at right angles to each other, and even trying to set it up with engineers squares showed that the cast guides were bowed out of straight..

 

For 45 degree mitres in timber I would always use my router table with the appropriate cutter rather than try and set up the circular saw, as the fences and the guides on the router are more positive at keeping the timber in line as you pass it over the cutter.

 

Regards

 

Richard

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Forget all the expensive stuff........Some time ago when I still made trinket boxes etc they would frequently be fitted with 3/32" cedar linings which protruded 1/8" above the lower half to make a rim over which the lids would fit.

 

I'd simply cut them square and use the device below, technically known as a 'scratch-stock' but in reality an earth pin from a 3-pin UK plug slotted with a baby hacksaw to take a piece of old Stanley Knife blade, or as here, an old Exacto blade.

 

In grain-less MDF I imagine the effect would be even more satisfactory. I'd suggest setting the angle a tiny degree too acute so that the outer edges butt fractionally before the back edges.

 

The same device will perform beautifully for styrene sheet as well...............

 

post-106-0-60818100-1314713394_thumb.jpg

 

Doug

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