Alan Kettlewell Posted September 30, 2011 Author Share Posted September 30, 2011 Hi Martin, Thank you for your input. Having got my Templot licence today, thank you, I too have been playing around and have come up with much the same as you have here. I'm becoming a little more confident in the ability to fit in a continuous run, albeit I keep coming up with same general layout as this one. Another possibility I explored was a figure of eight, the track passing under a station running diagonally across from corner to corner. This plan gives the longest open run but then introduces gradients on the curves, not really desirable given the radii are already tight. So, it's on with the doodling, however I have to admit I find the planning stage almost as enjoyable as the building of it. By the way, enjoying the self tuition with Templot, but a way to go until I become expert. Kind regards Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Kettlewell Posted October 14, 2011 Author Share Posted October 14, 2011 Hi All, Just a few words to say thanks to all who have encouraged me in this new venture. I've taken your advice and whilst at the Keighley O gauge show last weekend I met Jim McGowan at his Connoisseurs Models stand and bought two kits, the LowMac 'skills builder' brass kit and the J71 Loco plus Slaters wheels. I'm on with the LowMac and so far so good, thoroughly enjoying it and find the instructions and extra information Jim provides is excellent. I also found and bought a couple of Bassett-Lowke metal kits going for a good price on eBay which I'll use to help build up my skills before tackling the J71. One question though - I'm concerned about the Slaters wheels rusting issue and have read articles about blackening or blueing. Could you please pass on your experiences on the best approach. Eg: Which is the best blackening or blueing product? Can the treatment be applied after the wheels have been fitted? I ask this because I've already fitted wheels to a couple of Slaters kits and to the LowMac What about the surfaces where the current is picked up, can these be treated without affecting the electrical conductivity? Will it affect the plastic centre of the wheels? Many thanks Regards Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 Hi Alan, Glad your enjoying the Lowmac build and you will find that if you stick to the recommended suppliers, most 7mm wagons are a joy to build. Right you really need to blacken the wheels before they are fitted, as you need to neutralise the blackening by dipping in water. Saying that if you have already soldered up the Lowmac and there are no signs of rusting then you should be safe as if they are going to rust they will in just " one night". The main reason they rust is certain fluxes cause this and also " sweaty fingers !!". As to what blackening agent, you have Carrs or my preferred one is Birchwood Casey which is more of a paste rather than Carrs which is a fluid. The wheels need to be de-greased first and then I warm them with swmbo's hairdryer as they seem to take the chemical better, once your happy with the colour rinse them in tap water. If your Lowmac's wheels are free from rust, I find you can blacken them with a black permanent maker pen. Hope we this is of some help. ATB, Martyn. P.S. I apply the Birchwood Casey with swmbo's cotton buds. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 The blackening will not effect the conductivity at all , but I'm not sure about the plastic centres ? ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Kettlewell Posted October 14, 2011 Author Share Posted October 14, 2011 Martyn, Many thanks for your comprehensive reply. At least I haven't started on the loco yet so I can get hold of some blackening in the meantime. The lowmac wheels have already started to go rusty so I'll give them a burnishing with a brush in my mini-drill tomorrow. Meanwhile I better go on a raid of swmbo's dressing table for a few necessities ... Thanks again Regards Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted October 14, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 14, 2011 Unless supplied with a kit I prefer Haywards wheels which are already blackened. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jamie92208 Posted October 14, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 14, 2011 Welcome to O gauge Alan. I made the leap about 18 years ago and have never regretted it. I'm also glad that you are modelling the S & C as I grew up at Settle. My last layout ws Long Preston which I've just dismatled and am now building Lancaster Green Ayre (There is a layout thread.). You hav e had some very good advice so far and what you propose does look feasible, if you keep your platforms short as per the prototype. a 4F will certainly fit the period. Black 5's, 8F's and Brittania's were certainly very common in that era. Just make sure that when you build a loco with a leading bogie, that you allow it enoughb side play and that the wheels pass freely under the frames without shorting. If you need any help on S & C related matters keep in touch. Also as per the advice on the Slaters wagon kits, I blacken the buffers and coupling links by heating the steel parts until cherry red on the gas stove the dropping into some oil in a jar. Make sure that SWMBO isn't trying to cook at the same time. Jamie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Kettlewell Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 Unless supplied with a kit I prefer Haywards wheels which are already blackened. Don Thanks Don, I'll certainly give these a look .. Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Kettlewell Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 Welcome to O gauge Alan. I made the leap about 18 years ago and have never regretted it. I'm also glad that you are modelling the S & C as I grew up at Settle. My last layout ws Long Preston which I've just dismatled and am now building Lancaster Green Ayre (There is a layout thread.). You hav e had some very good advice so far and what you propose does look feasible, if you keep your platforms short as per the prototype. a 4F will certainly fit the period. Black 5's, 8F's and Brittania's were certainly very common in that era. Just make sure that when you build a loco with a leading bogie, that you allow it enoughb side play and that the wheels pass freely under the frames without shorting. If you need any help on S & C related matters keep in touch. Also as per the advice on the Slaters wagon kits, I blacken the buffers and coupling links by heating the steel parts until cherry red on the gas stove the dropping into some oil in a jar. Make sure that SWMBO isn't trying to cook at the same time. Jamie Hi Jamie, Thanks for your encouragement and advice. I've seen your fabulous Long Preston layout at a show somewhere and I have some photographs which incidentally I recently reviewed to get some inspiration. What a great layout and I have to admit to being drawn to the S&C line on which I have a couple of books including a great colour edition, pictures taken during the latter steam days, this I also use for inspiration. I'll make a point of tuning in to the thread for your new layout, thank you. The tips on loco and wagon building are much appreciated, which I'l put into practice. I'm still keen to fit a continous run layout into my shed, albeit with tight radii in the two 'back' corners which I'll hide in tunnels and cuttings - no shortage of those on the S&C. One side of the shed will be a countryside view, featuring a full length viaduct, probably about 15 ft long and on a very, very gentle curve for maximum asthetic effect - again plenty of prototypes to choose from. On the opposite long side, starting on the transitional curve, will be a small curved station, platforms around 7 ft long, then a yard area, cattle dock and/or loading ramp and a small goods shed, maybe even a small loco shed, hopefully prototypical and offering good shunting opportunities. However I'm only at the scribbling on paper stage just yet. I plan to reduce the visual effect of the tight curves in the back corners with a road bridge at one end leading into a cutting, and at the other end a tunnel. Hopefully this should maximise the space on the 31 ft length available. I'm planning to build all my own pointwork on the station side, reserving the use of some Peco on the opposite side and in out of sight areas. I'm currently learning the ropes in Templot, which I find good for points design and pointwork configuration, but awkward to work with for a layout in its entirety - I understand its main purpose is for the pointwork so it's not a criticism. I made one mistake already when buying some rolling stock, so please listen up anyone reading this who's thinking about making the leap to O Gauge. I bought online, two wagons by Bassett-Lowke thinking they were metal kits - wrong! They are not kits but overscale and unrealistic tin-plate toys, more like the very early O Gauge models that used to be around. So I'm afraid these will have to go back. Lessons learned there - read the advert properly! Anyway, thanks again for all the great advice and encouragement. Regards Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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