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need some advise about functions and moving them


Rob Hayes

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Hi there i need some help, i have a 2 newer Bachmann class 37s 239 and 507 both fitted with mr soundguy class 37 sounds which are great,

 

however none of the functions buttons operate the cab lights i can live without that but i would like to know if there is anyway i can alter cv's to move the lights to a function button,

 

or how about wiring they are both on esu loksound 3.5 decoder 21 pin chips, so there is that aux purple wire which ive not yet learned or needed to learn how to use.

 

im using the Bachmann dynamis controller that came with the sprinter 150 set so i cant read cv's but i can do programing,.

 

 

there are plenty of function buttons on the mr soundguy chip that are unused.

 

any help would be greatly welcomed.

 

i never thought cab lights would be so addictive but i love that window shape on the 37 and it reminds me of seeing a 37/5 in metal sector poking its nose out the shed at bescot in the early 90s looking gorgeous in the rain and orange night time lights. on its fresh paint work, with the cab windows lit, so atmospheric and it would be nice to have 507 sat like this.

 

cheers rob

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Hi there i need some help, i have a 2 newer Bachmann class 37s 239 and 507 both fitted with mr soundguy class 37 sounds which are great,

 

however none of the functions buttons operate the cab lights i can live without that but i would like to know if there is anyway i can alter cv's to move the lights to a function button,

 

or how about wiring they are both on esu loksound 3.5 decoder 21 pin chips, so there is that aux purple wire which ive not yet learned or needed to learn how to use.

 

im using the Bachmann dynamis controller that came with the sprinter 150 set so i cant read cv's but i can do programing,.

 

 

there are plenty of function buttons on the mr soundguy chip that are unused.

 

any help would be greatly welcomed.

 

i never thought cab lights would be so addictive but i love that window shape on the 37 and it reminds me of seeing a 37/5 in metal sector poking its nose out the shed at bescot in the early 90s looking gorgeous in the rain and orange night time lights. on its fresh paint work, with the cab windows lit, so atmospheric and it would be nice to have 507 sat like this.

 

cheers rob

 

Hi Rob

Can you list the function buttons that you now have, after the reblow. Normally on factory sound fitted Bach 37's with V3.5 decoders, F8 controls the cab lights using Aux 1. If could well be the re-blowing has overwritten the original factory settings for F8. Another possibility is that the F button for the cab lights has been shifted to a higher number ie F12 etc and you cannot access control of it with your present Dynamis ? I may be able to help you further, once you advise the above.

 

HTH

Ken

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Hi Rob

Can you list the function buttons that you now have, after the reblow. Normally on factory sound fitted Bach 37's with V3.5 decoders, F8 controls the cab lights using Aux 1. If could well be the re-blowing has overwritten the original factory settings for F8. Another possibility is that the F button for the cab lights has been shifted to a higher number ie F12 etc and you cannot access control of it with your present Dynamis ? I may be able to help you further, once you advise the above.

 

HTH

Ken

 

Hi ken thanks for getting back to me.

my dynamis has accress to 20 functions.

 

the function list for the mr soundguy 37 is as follows.

 

F1 = sound on off.

F2 = double tone horn playable

F3 = short single horn

F4 = playable single horn

F5 = air release i think

F6 = similar to f5

F7 = coupling sound

F8 = similar to f7

F9 = flange squeal

F10 = notch up

F11 = notch down

F12 = EMPTY

F13 = EMPTY

F14 = EMPTY

F15 = EMPTY

F16 = spirex valve tick

F17 = EMPTY

F18 = EMPTY

F19 = EMPTY

F20 = EMPTY

 

thanks mate rob cheers

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Hi ken thanks for getting back to me.

my dynamis has accress to 20 functions.

 

the function list for the mr soundguy 37 is as follows.

 

F1 = sound on off.

F2 = double tone horn playable

F3 = short single horn

F4 = playable single horn

F5 = air release i think

F6 = similar to f5

F7 = coupling sound

F8 = similar to f7

F9 = flange squeal

F10 = notch up

F11 = notch down

F12 = EMPTY

F13 = EMPTY

F14 = EMPTY

F15 = EMPTY

F16 = spirex valve tick

F17 = EMPTY

F18 = EMPTY

F19 = EMPTY

F20 = EMPTY

 

thanks mate rob cheers

 

Hi Rob

Firstly ensure the contacts (at the cab bulkheads) for the cab lights are making good contact with the circuit board, often as not the cab lights don't work only because the spring contacts are not touching the circuit board contact pads.

Assuming you can write/programme CV's. To enable F12 to work the cab lights in both directions: write the following values into these CV's: CV 213 value 4 / CV 216 value 4

Hopefully they will now work ! You can/could use any blank function button, but different CV's to the above would require setting.

HTH

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Hi Rob

Firstly ensure the contacts (at the cab bulkheads) for the cab lights are making good contact with the circuit board, often as not the cab lights don't work only because the spring contacts are not touching the circuit board contact pads.

Assuming you can write/programme CV's. To enable F12 to work the cab lights in both directions: write the following values into these CV's: CV 213 value 4 / CV 216 value 4

Hopefully they will now work ! You can/could use any blank function button, but different CV's to the above would require setting.

HTH

 

hi WOW thanks for that very much the lights in the cab work now, wonderfull, and yep i checked them before i put a decoder in always do, and im always very carefull with them,

cant thank you enough, can i ask how did you find that out, let me guess reading the instructions.

 

can i also ask is it possible to dim the head and tail lights as i feel they are too bright to be realistic sometimes. particularly on my 37/0 37254 i always remember them glowing more than looking like sagitarius coming towards you.

 

cheers rob

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Pleased to hear your cab lights now work Rob

 

As for dimming the lights, yes that can also be done with CV's. However to adjust the CV/bits etc to dimm the lights, being able to read the CV's is necessary. It can also be done on POM, provided the dymanis has this ability ?

Your soundguy 37 sounds good, the "hunting" idling sound making it a bit different, although these reblows don't appear to be available at present/anymore ?

Regards

Ken

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Pleased to hear your cab lights now work Rob

 

As for dimming the lights, yes that can also be done with CV's. However to adjust the CV/bits etc to dimm the lights, being able to read the CV's is necessary. It can also be done on POM, provided the dymanis has this ability ?

Your soundguy 37 sounds good, the "hunting" idling sound making it a bit different, although these reblows don't appear to be available at present/anymore ?

Regards

Ken

 

hi there yes my dynamis is only the basic one with the sprinter set i cant read any cvs until i buy the box to upgrade it.

yes the mr soundguy 37 does sound excellent i have 3 and love them i have howes and bachman and zimo ones, the more the merrier they all sound fantastic and add more dimension to the expiriance, i cant wait to get my hands on legomanbiffo, keytes, olivias, costal, and dc kits 37 sounds, and any others that are good,. i dont understand why people argue its good to have the choice and variety, no 2 locos sound the same and not even the same one sounds the same on a different day or with a different driver, so it was good this weekend to have them all ticking over and running together, none sounded wrong to me,

the mr soundguy chips are sadly no longer available apparently he told dcc supplies he wanted to sell them on his own and is now not selling them, and of course they would have to be modded to suit lok v4.

i hope they come available again.

still got plenty of 37s awaiting life to be put into them, so i hope we see more projects available.

howes driveability and volume is still one of my faves however. there is good and bad in all.

just wish they were cheeper. as its not just 37s i need to put sound in but 37s make an adictive sound and i miss the steel trains they used to pull around here listening to them morning and night. wonderfull stuff.

gotta get howes 20 and 40 sounds too, something about english electric beasts.

the hunting sound i guess is due to it sounding like it was recorded from a cold engine, i like that sound. adds yet another dimension to the layout, makes you wonder what the weather is like for 1/76 ant sized people,.

all the best and once again thanks for the help ill leave the dimming till i can read them dont want to blow any leds. and they looks fine as is.

cheers mate. rob

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