jhock Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 My new layout is fictions line located in southern Scotland, it is a simple through line with a siding for timber loading, the eventual plan is to have a fiddle yard at both ends but for now one will be completed. Set in around 2000 to 2005 and built to P4 standards the main board is 4' by 18". The first step was the baseboards, I am not good at wood work and don't have the tools or the space for it so a friend, Paul (Flymo 748) offered me his help and use of his garage and tools. So yesterday myself and Paul spent most of the day in his garage (plus a trip to pub for essential sustenance), I will confess now that Paul did most of the work and a fantastic job he has done! I still need to put some cassettes together, hence the smaller board is lower than the main board and the back scene, frame and lighting rig all need to be constructed but the point is I have some baseboards to start work on! In the future there will be another fiddle yard so I can run through trains (when Paul lets be back round to abuse his garage again!) but for now I have enough to be working on. I would like to say a huge thank you to Paul for giving up his time to build the baseboards. Please don't laugh at my rubbish track plan, asyou can tell it was done on MS Paint! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
treggyman Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Hi jhock I look forward to watching your progress as although I model in 00 the location is one I have been tempted to model. I am fascinated by your baseboard design,one I've not seen before. I run diagonals from corner to corner to avoid any potential twist in the baseboard. I can see that your method would save on plywood strip for reinforcing,so would be beneficial,but is there any other structural reason for the design ? I assume the depth of the baseboard supports is to allow for tortoise or similar point motors. Cheers Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhock Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 I will confess that the design is not mine, but the same as Paul uses on his boards, it does not flex. You are right about the depth but i have not decided how I will operate the points so I thought I would give myself the option. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wizard of the Moor Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Good to see another Scottish P4 layout in the making. I'll look forward to updates, both here and on the Scalefour forum. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhock Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 Good to see another Scottish P4 layout in the making. I'll look forward to updates, both here and on the Scalefour forum. Thank you for that, I am fan of Waterloo Street. Next jobs are to fit the C & L dowels to align the boards and lay the track base, I am going to try the Woodland Scenics foam track base. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flymo748 Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Hi jhock I look forward to watching your progress as although I model in 00 the location is one I have been tempted to model. I am fascinated by your baseboard design,one I've not seen before. I run diagonals from corner to corner to avoid any potential twist in the baseboard. I can see that your method would save on plywood strip for reinforcing,so would be beneficial,but is there any other structural reason for the design ? I assume the depth of the baseboard supports is to allow for tortoise or similar point motors. Cheers Bill Hi Bill, As I'm the chap that helped James build his boards, and "designed" them, then I really should answer that question! The simple reason is that I've tried it and it works... I have recently built a demo board for the Scalefour Society, to show the different types of P4 track that are now available. For this, I needed something that was both light and rigid. The reason for choosing two diagonal pieces that didn't meet exactly in the middle was that to do that I would have needed to cut the timber to fraction of a millimetre accuracy. I have neither the tools nor the skills to do that. Having put the diagonals in, the board could still be twisted slightly. Putting the third piece in to link them together gave the rigidity that was needed. BTW, my board is made out of 6mm ply, and James' is made out of 9mm, so his is even more rigid, although at the cost of a little more weight. You will have seen that we pre-drilled holes in the cross-members to put any wiring through. Whilst James hasn't yet decided how to operate the turnouts, on my board I use a separate TOU and motor, so the two can be mounted any convenient distance apart. See the picture halfway down this page as an illustration. http://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=425&p=13051 So far these have worked excellently for me. Of course, in any aspect of modelling there are many ways to the same end, so I'm certainly not claiming that this is the *only* way. HTH Flymo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhock Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 I am waiting for the post man to deliver my track base and then I can lay the track now that both turnouts are constructed. I have also been doing some research, I do not intend to base the layout on any specific location but I have found a few pictures of some structures and features I would like to include: http://www.flickr.com/photos/irishswissernie/5742550097/in/set-72157626646281993/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/irishswissernie/5742318549/in/set-72157626645865977/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/irishswissernie/5742945364/in/set-72157626645865977/lightbox/ The boads are now joined (on the second attempt), so once I get the foam to lay the track on (Woodland Scenics) I can crack on. I need to build the cassettes for the fiddle yard but I really need the track on the main board first to make sure the height of the cassette is correct. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhock Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 A little bit of progress, made start on one of the structures: The idea is to have a bit of run down a look as in the links I posted in the previous post. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
treggyman Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Hi Bill, As I'm the chap that helped James build his boards, and "designed" them, then I really should answer that question! The simple reason is that I've tried it and it works... I have recently built a demo board for the Scalefour Society, to show the different types of P4 track that are now available. For this, I needed something that was both light and rigid. The reason for choosing two diagonal pieces that didn't meet exactly in the middle was that to do that I would have needed to cut the timber to fraction of a millimetre accuracy. I have neither the tools nor the skills to do that. Having put the diagonals in, the board could still be twisted slightly. Putting the third piece in to link them together gave the rigidity that was needed. BTW, my board is made out of 6mm ply, and James' is made out of 9mm, so his is even more rigid, although at the cost of a little more weight. You will have seen that we pre-drilled holes in the cross-members to put any wiring through. Whilst James hasn't yet decided how to operate the turnouts, on my board I use a separate TOU and motor, so the two can be mounted any convenient distance apart. See the picture halfway down this page as an illustration. http://www.scalefour...9&t=425&p=13051 So far these have worked excellently for me. Of course, in any aspect of modelling there are many ways to the same end, so I'm certainly not claiming that this is the *only* way. HTH Flymo Hi Flymo Thanks for the reply. Just a quick comment. Below is a picture of one of my baseboards for Penhallick Junction. As you can see I have used diagonal bracing;however,it is just possible to see that the diagonals are not a tight fit into the corners & where they cross over the ply is not in contact with the other cross member! The key I think is that so long as the contact surface between the top of the cross member & the underside of the baseboard is straight & true you wont get any warping or twisting.I glue & panel pin the surface (6mm ply) to the crossmembers (9mm ply). PS Sorry to hijack your thread Cheers Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
treggyman Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 A little bit of progress, made start on one of the structures: The idea is to have a bit of run down a look as in the links I posted in the previous post. Hi jhock, That building is looking good. Look forward to seeing it painted. Cheers Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhock Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 More progress on the little disused goods shed, a trip to the Watford show meant I had what I need to put a roof on the shed: I am quite pleased with the result but I do think the capping along the top of the roof could be better, but I found it hard bend all the bits to a consistent level, still it does not look too bad and I don’t think I will ever get as close as I have taken these photo’s. The Watford show was up to it’s not normal high standards, Mr Willis (Flymo) provided good company and poor Mark behind Portchullin was subject to some good natured heckling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Portchullin Tatty Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 The Watford show was up to it’s not normal high standards, Mr Willis (Flymo) provided good company and poor Mark behind Portchullin was subject to some good natured heckling. Sort of how it goes with Paul................................ Good to meet you! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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