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New Farish 04 & 03 shunter, N Gauge


devondynosoar118

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I have run this one in and managed to find the tiny screws that hold the body. I have worked out where the motor wires go but only have one place for the pick up wires, namely the bolt in the cab. All the how to's cover 04's and don't show a picture of the second pick up wire. Anyone got an idiot proof picture solution?

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When I did my 04 (and the 03 mech is the same), I used the gearbox screw for the other track pickup. I made a small solder tag from some scrap etch and put the gearbox screw through it, and soldered the wire to that.

 

Note that you have to isolate the electrical connection at the front of the loco to the bottom of the PCB infront of the motor.

 

 

The hard part of copying my 04 is fitting 2mm finescale wheels and DCC controlled couplers :-)

 

Nigel

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This install worked fine with a CT 75 chip, if you are struggling or unsure about where stuff goes look here

http://darkest-essex.2mm.org.uk/2008/06/dcc-in-farish-04.html

No pictures though! Picture link seems to be dead, have edited this post to put in the above.

 

This site and Nigel's help got the job done, the only extra worth mentioning is that you may have to put some weight on the motor to get the chip to read when the body is off.

 

As a post script, this install failed but I am trying again! Space on these is tight, the new CT 76 chip will easily fit but use a lower temp solder as the solder pads on the chip PCB are tiny and if they come off you are going to struggle to solder the wires back on to the chip without destroying them.

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  • 8 months later...

Having finally found time to try this little b##ger again I thought I would round the post up. Conclusions:

Not an install for the beginner as space is very tight, plus there are lots of metal bits to make shorts.

A Lenz silver mini or smaller chip will fit, just looked like it wouldn't.

Slow speed control can be excellent with this loco, but be sure to check all pick ups have good contact with the wheels, from the box this is not always so.

I had to remove the guard irons to get it to work, they are metal and were shorting somewhere.

When you cut the tag at the front of the motor block, ensure the stub is WELL INSULATED.

Run it in for at least an hour in both directions if new.

 

I now have a shunter that runs, using the second hand chip I started with and have killed a CT 75 in the process, so hope the above helps anyone else!

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