Converting Scalescenes North Light Engine Shed to a three road

[Lady_Ava_Hay]

Rather than hijack the 6 road thread which is based on the pitch roof Scalescenes Engine Shed, I decided to start a new one based on my experiences so far. This is still an ongoing project and is not yet finished so this thread is to detail what might be needed.

 

The beauty of Scalescenes is that once you have bought the download you can print as many copies as needed and even start again with only the cost of the card that you glue your Scalescenes sheets to. In my case that is framing style card from the Range at 80p per A3 sheet. The lighter weight stuff and the printer paper and indeed the inkjet compatible acetate featured here came from W H Smith but I never pass an art shop or a good stationers without checking their card supplies.

 

So here goes. The first picture show the acetate windows as printed and I draw your attention to the spacing of these windows.

 

 

Now I will show the base layer suitably modified to bridge the three tracks on my layout.

 

 

Note the fact that I have had to shift the roof light to its left to make the spacing correct plus spliced two base layers together to get the required length of roof.

 

At this stage I have to say that track spacing is very much an issue here as I am convinced that my Tillig track is quite different to Hornby settrack and possibly other makes as well. As with all things one has to measure carefully but the principles will still apply although one can see that just adding half a window is not going to look right either.

 

The same principle applies to the roof panels that join on to the roof lights. First the cover layers as printed and cut out

 

 

and now after splicing with base layers added. There are two here to show both sides

 

 

and lastly the fully finished roof light. A lot of surgery and splicing went into this using the trusted method of using a tacky glue and cut carefully through both layers of paper, peeling back, removing the excesses and when put back, a near invisible join results.

 

 

Lastly just a quick view of the side walls and back wall, all of which have been lengthened. Note the different colour bricks on the extension. War damage perhaps?

 

[theoldmansminion]

looking good already

[Lady_Ava_Hay]

Has it been a year since I posted this. Great Scott ! Anyway I have started on it again. I think I lost my mojo on model railways. I got it back getting and fitting sound to my Kernow Thumper. I will post again once the roof is complete. At the current pace i reckon two days maybe three.

 

One thing I have noticed is that my new printer prints Scalescenes much better than the old one did. i don't know whether this is a factor of inks or printer quality. It is the same make, Epson. The concrete is now well ...... concrete colour instead of green.

 

Glad to be back modelling again.

[Lady_Ava_Hay]

The roof lights are now finished. To recap I have converted them to three road and lengthened the shed by two window bays / roof lights.

 

 

 

Because I changed printers whilst still in build I have some colour variations so this shed was obviously bombed during the war, wasn't it?

 

 

I still think Scalescenes is a really good model making idea. I have a lot of work on this model yet to do but it all seems downhill from now on as I am about to assemble the building in outline and then kit out the interior.

 

I shall follow the advice in my own signature !!

[Michael Carmody]

I had a similar problem with the ink levels in my printer causing colour variations. My solution was to print out a sheet of TX34 Roof Cladding and trying to cover the existing cover layer. Turned out ok for a finish. Just a thought. Have to admit I like the bombed-out idea

[Lady_Ava_Hay]

I finished it !

 

After some concentrated effort I have finished the conversion and it is now resting on my layout in its intended position. Now I can lay the rest of the track in the MPD.

 

Only a year overdue so quite quick really.

 

Note in the photos that the support columns are not yet either trimmed or centred but you can see the overall effect.

 

 

 

 

There is no point in posting these threads without revealing what I have learnt. Modifying the card bases for the roof lights is best accomplished by completely redrawing them albeit from a template made up by splicing. i made two blank card templates for roof width and floor width.

 

Adding extra bays to the length was quite easy.

 

All Scalescenes modelling requires considerably more time than bought card kits a la Metcalfe and Superquick.

 

Cheap felt tips are not any good beyond a couple of uses. I have a set of Staedtler pens which are really good. A steady hand is useful for 'painting' in the lines caused by scoring because the felt tip shows if painted on the printed surfaces. Scoring is essential on many parts rather than using a folder as I did on some parts.

 

Changing printers in mid stream will cause considerable variation in print colours. Even the quality of paper has an effect and the use of standard 80 or 90 GSM paper can result in a very wet and crinkly printed page on an average inkjet.

 

Pritt stick is quite good as a glue but requires a lot of glue to make a durable joint. A smear is not enough. All glues make the part you are gluing, damp but this dries quite quickly to a rigid finish. Care is needed handling small wet card objects as they tear easily. I used standard Wilko craft PVA after the Rocket ran out plus Wilko standard all purpose and Wilko contact adhesives.

 

I still have a further wall to construct that I estimate as at least five feet long to complete the cutting.

 

I think the mods I have made to this kit are well worth the effort.

[Campaman]

That's turned out very well, and now you also know which way is north on your layout so you can weather your buildings accordingly.

[Metalhip]

That's a good point about getting output to match from different printers,I've tried six different laser printers in as many months now.

 

A Canon which was very frustrating to use and wasted a lot of toner by constantly recalibrating after ever print.

A Samsung which tended to print with visible banding.

Two Oki laser printers that printed a skewed image.

A Xerox printer that had no colour adjustment,go figure that one out.!!!!

A Lexmark laser that I now use and I am very pleased with it,it has loads of colour adjustments available and will turn an A4 full page stone paper out in 30 seconds.

 

I made a neutral grey test image of a size that I could print four on an A4 sheet by printing one at a time and altering the position of it,made a note  of what I'd adjusted against each one as I printed it and compared the image to what I'd got on the screen.Several sheets of paper later I've settled on the nearest match to the screen that I can get.

Not a perfect calibration I know,but at least I could see which way each adjustment was going.

 

Allan