Willy Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 I am sure that you are all familiar with the various 'Blackening Fluids' such as 'Birchwood Casey Super Blue' which I use and find to be very good indeed. But what about the 'Presto Gun Blue Pen' also by Birchwood? Have you tried it and if so, what do you think? There is also a 'super black' pen; see below. Cheers Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hollywoodfoundry Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 It depends upon what you want to use them for? If blackening wheels, again disc or spoked? I have found normal black felt pens are fine for doing wagon or carriage disc wheels, just paint the outside surface and leave the tread shiny. If the wheels have to collect power, then again, leave the tread shiny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willy Posted December 24, 2009 Author Share Posted December 24, 2009 It depends upon what you want to use them for? If blackening wheels, again disc or spoked? I have found normal black felt pens are fine for doing wagon or carriage disc wheels, just paint the outside surface and leave the tread shiny. If the wheels have to collect power, then again, leave the tread shiny. Thank you for that. Yes I normally use a black felt marker, or a rub with blacking fluid on a cotton bud, to blacken wheel faces and I have always been happy with the results and see no need to change. In this case I was just wondering if anyone had used these particular pens and for what application! If they only contain the same blacking fluid that is in the bottle I see no advantage in using them unless I am missing something! Cheers, Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 ...In this case I was just wondering if anyone had used these particular pens and for what application! If they only contain the same blacking fluid that is in the bottle I see no advantage in using them unless I am missing something. I've not used them but they may be slightly more convenient or less messy than the usual method with bottle and cotton wool bud. Though, as with most such 'convenience' methods, they're probably just a more expensive way of achieving exactly the same result. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willy Posted December 24, 2009 Author Share Posted December 24, 2009 Though, as with most such 'convenience' methods, they're probably just a more expensive way of achieving exactly the same result. Nick That's just what I was thinking Nick. Cheers, Willy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hollywoodfoundry Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 Just a thought, but I have had mixed results from using blackening solutions, or even buying pre-blackened wheels. I once bought a batch of pre-blackened wheels from North West Short Line, they were made from solid nickel silver, but had been blackened. I found power pick-up from the wheels was quite unreliable, so until I used them up, I would run a fibre-glass pen against the wheel tread and also inside the wheel to improve pickup. As a result, I must say I am not a fan of these blackening preparations, preferring to either paint the wheels or use a black felt-tip marker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 Just a thought, but I have had mixed results from using blackening solutions, or even buying pre-blackened wheels. I once bought a batch of pre-blackened wheels from North West Short Line, they were made from solid nickel silver, but had been blackened. I found power pick-up from the wheels was quite unreliable, so until I used them up, I would run a fibre-glass pen against the wheel tread and also inside the wheel to improve pickup. I don't know anything about the chemistry of metal blackening, but can assure you that the Birchwood Casey Super Blue applied to steel wheels has no noticeable detrimental affect on electrical pickup. It must, of course, be applied correctly which includes washing and burnishing off any remaining deposits after the chemical has done its thing. You can see an example on my blog of some freshly treated Gibson wheels. After a few hours running, they started to develop an even polish on the contact surfaces and now have quite a good prototypical finish. On the other hand, the nickel silver Ultrascale wheels that I've blackened do not take on such a good finish and tend to remain rather spotty. Something more than a little burnishing may be required. For example, the light application of a glass fibre brush as you suggest. One of the reasons why I prefer steel wheels. By the way, most of the black marker pens I've used are actually a dark blue or purple colour and, whilst fine on paper or card, can look quite horrible when applied to a shiny metal surface. Nick ps. as it's almost Xmas day, Merry Christmas and successful blackening to all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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