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Modifying a Knuckle Coupler for 4mm


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Prompted by another thread, I have as one of my long term 'to do's the mounting of a Knuckle coupler - ideally a Kadee pattern - in the right place.

 

Now I do already have this on a class 66, done to match the HTA hoppers which Bachmann supply with their knuckle coupler in the right location. To say that this looks better than any other RTR coupler, (and any kit coupler other than scale screw or three links come to that) on 4mm stock is no understatement. But of course the trip pins are a country mile overheight: though it doesn't matter in this application as loco and train run as a fixed set.

 

But for my main application for Knucjkle couplers which is gangwayed coach sets I want the full Kadee repertoire of magnetically operable uncoupling. It is pretty obvious what is required, replacing the trip pin with a longer unit. Anyone out there done this? Any thoughts on what is the best Kadee piece to start from? Primary thought is old no 5 with a piece of florists wire to make the new trip pin, but there might just be an easier model to work on - possibly even closer to scale - as an alternative, and I have never really explored the range being very much a tread the proven path for reliability type.

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There are the 'scale head' Kadees (158/156) that have a slightly smaller head.

 

In the regular head, you might also want to consider one of the longer shank and/or overset head variants (21/31 etc) to aid in mounting.

 

Another option is using one of the NEM variants (17-20) as they have a head that is free to rotate which means that the mount doesn't necessarily have to. They also have the head mounted above the NEM portion which may allow you to attach them without hacking up the buffer beam.

 

You might find it easier changing the trip pins in the plastic-head versions.

 

All the options: http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/coupler.htm

 

Adrian

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You might find this article interesting http://www.clag.org....aydees-mk1.html

 

Sorry, but in what way is this relevant to fitting operating kadees at scale height as requested by the OP?

 

The Kadees in the CLAG article have not had their trip pins replaced and therefore probably will not function accurately as the pins are now too high above the magnets.

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Sorry, but in what way is this relevant to fitting operating kadees at scale height as requested by the OP?

 

The Kadees in the CLAG article have not had their trip pins replaced and therefore probably will not function accurately as the pins are now too high above the magnets.

 

The coupler emerges from the bufferbeam at the correct scale height, true, the trip pin wants replacing but the rest seems quite useful.

 

Cheers,

 

David

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Replacing the trip pins is fiddly - I haven't fitted longer ones, just repaired a Kadee. It also involves the operation of safely removing, storing and then refitting the wretched spring (Do this in a box to avoid losing it.)

 

IMHO, it would be easier to extend the existing trip pin with an additional piece of wire.

 

I intend to fit some sort of knuckle coupling to my Mk I coaches at headstock height, but it's one of those jobs for the future....

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I have my Kadees set at 13mm to the centre which allows for the overset pattern to have the shank in the coupling slot, I have done this on my class 20/24/25 diesels and on coaches. I have not found it necessary to alter the trip pin, the KD electromagnets work them Ok as they are.

I haven't got a clear pic of this but you do get a glimpse here.

Regards

Keith

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Thanks for that. Well, it has turned out simpler than expected. A little experimentation today with the no5 type rigged at bufferbeam height, so that the coupler head is neatly placed in the cut out of the gangway faceplate, and all it needs is some reshaping of the trip pin to make it hang that little bit lower. Couldn't be easier really, so there's one project for the dark winter evenings.

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Thanks for that. Well, it has turned out simpler than expected. A little experimentation today with the no5 type rigged at bufferbeam height, so that the coupler head is neatly placed in the cut out of the gangway faceplate, and all it needs is some reshaping of the trip pin to make it hang that little bit lower. Couldn't be easier really, so there's one project for the dark winter evenings.

 

And we're all waiting for the photos and a report of how well it goes around curves.

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