New Locos - Poor running and how it was cured

[Intercity125]

I recently bought 3 locos:

 

Lima Class 31 - 31 116 "Rail" in Dutch Livery - Second hand but hardly used

Hornby J92 - 68006 - Brand New

Hornby Lancashire and Yorkshire Pug - 51235 - Brand New

 

All of these had one thing in common - poor running.  Upon further investigation, they turned out to have an identical fault - pick ups!!!

 

The purpose of this posting is to make members aware of this problem so they can cure it rather than give up (as I nearly did).

 

Before doing anything further I recommend that you make some basic checks first: 

 

1. Check that power is getting to the tracks and that there are no poor/loose connections

2. Check that the track is clean and free from accumulated grime - use a track rubber or a small piece of cotton cloth/old handkerchief dampened in Isopropyl Alcohol

3. Check that the wheels of the loco are clean on both the treads and the wheel backs where the pick ups usually make contact

4. Stubborn dirt/tarnishing of wheels (especially on Lima models) can be dealt with by gently using a glass fibre pen - BE CAREFUL NOT TO GET ANY FIBRES IN YOUR FINGERS OR THE LOCO. 

5. Test the running of the loco before going any further

6. If the jittery or poor running persists, it is likely to be a pick up problem rather than the motor/chassis/gears

 

Lima Class 31

I cleaned the wheels as they were tarnished like nothing I'd seen before.  I started using Isopropyl Alcohol with a cotton bud, but this was next to useless.  I used the glass fibre pen and gently and carefully cleaned the wheels.  This gave an improvement in running, but the loco kept slowing down on live frog points.  I carefully unclipped the body and checked the electrical connections.  Everything seemed fine.  I then noticed that the pick ups which touch the backs of the wheels on the Class 31 were not making full contact.  I removed the keeper plate from the trailing (non-powered) bogie which revealed another problem.  There are pick ups which also make contact with the axles - except they weren't.  In fact, they were not making contact at all as they were sitting underneath the axles and weren't making any contact at all.  This was carefully remedied by removing and re-installing the pick up to ensure contact.  The keeper plate was re-fitted and the main pick up wire was refitted to the brass pin on the trailing bogie (a small recess in the pin exists and you will have to pull the springy pin up to re-clip the wire).

 

I placed the loco on the track and it now runs smoothly, especially over the points.  As the gears were dry, a drop of oil was applied, and it now runs smoothly.

 

J92/Lancashire & Yorkshire Pug

Both were running roughly at slower speeds.  Despite cleaning the wheels, they continued to give jittery running qualities.  I removed the keeper plate of the J92 and then the wheel sets which revealed something which concerned me - the two rearmost pick ups on each side weren't present,  Careful inspection revealed that the pick ups were inside the chassis frame.  The use of a small cocktail stick helped me gently lever the pick ups through the appropriate gap in the chassis and further gentle adjustment of the pick ups allowed them to be such that they would make contact with the wheels.  I was very careful refitting the wheels and ensuring that the pick ups were pushed inwards with the cocktail stick to make contact with the wheel backs.  After I was satisfied they were, I gently test run the loco, and its transformed it to a slow, smooth runner.  The Pug was a similar problem and careful adjustment of the pick ups and re-fitting of the wheels also transformed this diminutive loco into a smooth runner.

 

Personally I was shocked that two brand new Hornby locos should have this problem.  Quality control (if it exists) is very poor.

 

I hope this shaggy dog story helps those of you who wonder why your brand new/nearly new loco doesn't run as smooth as you expect, and that if you are careful and patient, then they can be fixed.

 

Regards,

 

Paul (aka Intercity125)

[faulcon1]

I had a brand new Bachmann 2-6-4 standard tank that I bought brand new from Hattons UK. When I tried to run it for the first time it was an extremely poor runner. I found that only two of the six contacts actually touched the wheel backs 100% of the time. When I told Hattons of the problem and asked did they test the loco before posting to me. I was told 'no we don't test the running qualities of the locos we just wrap and post' I asked them by phone on another order to test before posting and was told ' no we aren't going to do that' so I cancelled the order.

Don't rely on the manufacturers quality control systems if possible ALWAYS make sure (if ordering from overseas) that your chosen supplier tests the loco before dispatching to you, or have the loco you've chosen test run in front of you so you can see whether it's a good runner or a dud.

[vcltel]

I bought a Bachmann USA 2-6-6-2 loco new and found that it did not run, one set of drivers rotated the others didn't. Mark Thomas of South West Trains replaced it immediately (great service) with one that he had tested before despatching. However, recently Bachmann have visited the Black Diamonds events with lots of non runners for sale at knock down prices, which says to me they find it cheaper to scrap than repair! Mind you I can't grumble, I bought a non running DCC sound loco in as new condition for 40 quid which a friend fixed in no time. It had had the wires pulled out of the connecting plug.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Although the more recent designs tend to be better (of the four OO locos mentioned above the newest design is the BR Std4MTT from about 2000) long term experience suggests approaching a new loco as an assembled kit of parts with the potential to work well, but which may require adjustment or alteration to obtain that potential. Even a test run in the shop, up and down a length of track, by no means reveals all the possible shortcomings: what it does usefully confirm is that the mechanism is a runner. We have been told in the past by the RTR manufacturers that this is the same test typically perfomed at the end of the assembly line, typically low/mid/max volts forward and reverse: confirming it runs through a decent speed range forward and reverse. We typically require much more of our models, including going round tight curves, and keeping running for many years.

 

My 'drill' with a new model.

Pick ups all making full contact through the side to side movement of the wheelset, as already mentioned.

Remove excess leaking lubicant from running gear.

Check all outside rods for risk of fouling on crankpins, each other or fixed structure.

Wheelsets in gauge.

Unrestricted bogie movement through full travel.

 

Now test run it for about an hour over the toughest track formation your layout presents, moderate speed, alternating forward and reverse ten to fifteen minutes at a time. Most models become noticeably quieter, and often visibly smoother; minimum sustainable crawl speed is usually lower and top speed often increases over 'out of the box' condition.

 

Take the top off, and with the service diagram to hand inspect the wiring. Personally I solder up all connections in the electrical path for long term reliability, With some models you have to strip the chassis to do this. Check for adequate lubricant distribution to all moving parts - often makes sense to do this while doing the soldering job - and also for an 'all square' mechanical assembly, fettling anything that needs it to obtain this. Reassemble and repeat test run to ensure that performance is at least as good as first test run.

 

Now the model will probably achieve a decently reliable long term service life.