mikes Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Good afternoon everybody, I am currently building a NUCAST C13 4-4-2 tank engine, and am experiencing a little difficulty surrounding the fixed trailing wheelset, the wheelbase of the loco is quite long and i am finding that the rear wheelset derails on even 4th radius curves. Can anybody suggest any methods that will help this wheelset follow the track.... currently it lives in a slot in the frames and is retained. It seems to me that there is not enough side play, or that it may need to rotate a little?! Hopefully that all makes sense, I will post a picture when I am at home to show the arrangement properley, hopefully we can come up with some good ideas as I really want to be able to use this loco but it will have to negotiate 3rd and 4th radius curves due to the size of the room the layout lives in. Thanks in advance. Regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skaran Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Be interested to see how you go with this as I have the same kit in my to do pile. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian D Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 As I recall Hornby A3 and/or A4 locos have fixed Cartazzi? rear trucks and get round this issue (for train set curves) by using flangless wheel sets in the rear truck. Might be worth a try. Regards, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velopeur Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 London Road Models do a LNWR radial truck - see bottom of this page http://www.scalefour.org/LondonRoadModels/locos-tenders-chassis/lnwr/ It does just what you need, from what I understand - but worth checking what minimum radius it goes to. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted July 31, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 31, 2013 I scratch built a LT&SR a 4-4-2t with a solid rear frames and had the same problem. After lots of wondering I ended up soldering two plates one on the main frames and one over the rear wheels then drilled holes in the center of each connected the two with streep brass and nuts and bolts then cut through the main frames which keeps everything at the right distance and in line but let's the rear bogie swing. 3rd rad is achievable. Pic's in my album. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Flying Pig Posted July 31, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 31, 2013 I came at farren's solution from the other direction years ago with a K's coal tank, which had the rear axle unprototypically in a naked pony truck. I made dummy plastic frames for the truck and the resulting chassis looked and ran surprisingly well (sadly I never got as far as finishing the body). The inevitable gap where the frames articulate would be well hidden on a C13 by the cab steps and ?balance pipe behind them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 London Road Models do a LNWR radial truck - see bottom of this page http://www.scalefour.org/LondonRoadModels/locos-tenders-chassis/lnwr/ It does just what you need, from what I understand - but worth checking what minimum radius it goes to. The LRM radial truck was originally designed for the Mansion House 2-4-2 tank, and then also used in the Precursor Tank and Teutonic chassis. The design was aimed at 24 inch radius curves in OO, the frames being tapered in at each end to provide enough lateral movement for the axles. For really sharp curves, then a pony truck with frame cutouts to clear the wheels is the only praactical answer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted August 1, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 1, 2013 The N2 article was called "Locomotives of Dunwich Part 3" and involved altering Alan Gibson frames to provide a rear pony truck. It was indeed in MRJ No 207. I am not entirely sure that it will be very much help though as didn't some of the Nu Cast kits (depending on how long ago they were produced) have a cast whitemetal block instead of proper frames? I haven't seen the C13 kit frames so I am not sure which they had (or if they had some of each depending on the age of the kit). It should still be possible to cut off the rear end and make a pivot for the rear section to go from side to side. You may still have problems with the rear wheels if you do make a trailing truck as they get very close to the rear balancing pipes and footsteps, especially on small radius curves. I had such problems with a scratchbuilt C13 on 3' radius curves and had to carve a big chunk of the balancing pipes away. That was in EM so you may have better luck on OO with the extra clearance. Can anybody tell us how OO Works did it on their C13? That would be a good pointer. Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I just had a look at my set of Nu Cast C13 instructions and they show a one piece cast (presumably whitemetal) frame. If that's what you've got it will limit your options and the best might be to cut off the rear of them and build a rear 'swinging' frame as suggested above. I'll have a look at my C13, probably tomorrow, though I would not have used a cast frame. Had one been supplied, I'd have made my own from brass. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikes Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 The N2 article was called "Locomotives of Dunwich Part 3" and involved altering Alan Gibson frames to provide a rear pony truck. It was indeed in MRJ No 207. I am not entirely sure that it will be very much help though as didn't some of the Nu Cast kits (depending on how long ago they were produced) have a cast whitemetal block instead of proper frames? I haven't seen the C13 kit frames so I am not sure which they had (or if they had some of each depending on the age of the kit). It should still be possible to cut off the rear end and make a pivot for the rear section to go from side to side. You may still have problems with the rear wheels if you do make a trailing truck as they get very close to the rear balancing pipes and footsteps, especially on small radius curves. I had such problems with a scratchbuilt C13 on 3' radius curves and had to carve a big chunk of the balancing pipes away. That was in EM so you may have better luck on OO with the extra clearance. Can anybody tell us how OO Works did it on their C13? That would be a good pointer. Tony Hi Tony, On the kit I have the frames are proper etched frames so I suspect its a more recent kit, I would also say that the quality of the whitemetal parts for the superstructure and footplate are very tidy with very minimal flash etc - did not take long to clean up at all and the fit looks good so looking forward to tackling the loco now. The only parts I have still to acquire are the motor and gear box. Thanks everyone for the replies, lots of good ideas so much appreciated. One copy of MRJ 207 acquired so hopefully the build can commence soon! Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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