Cassette problems - need help

[Dale]

Hi folks,

 

My layout requires the use of cassettes.  

 

There is not enough space to physically turn these cassettes around, end on end and to be honest, the stock should remain in the order its in, just the loco and/or brake van needs swapping.

 

I do not wish to handle my stock any more than is absolutely necessary.

 

I need to uncouple a loco from one end, and by means of a loco lift (using the peco one), move it to the other end of the train.

 

I need to utilise the maximum castette length available to me (156cm) in one cassette, no splits.

 

Angle with a plasticard strip in the centre allows for very easy location of stock wheels, more so than trying to get the wheels on track.  Especially when there are sides to a casette restricting your view.

 

The total length of the fiddleyard is 66" giving a run-on of 4" at the scenic end (for locational bolts/electrical connectivity etc) and enough length to manouver the cassettes within the cassette well.

 

So thats the pre-amble - here is the problem.  

 

I wanted to use aluminium angle, both to run the stock on, replacing rail, but also for its strengthening properties.  My cassettes are long so the angle would stiffen things up and combat warping.  My plan was to use 12mm MDF as a base.  The problems are with the track sections at either end.  The angle is about 2mm deep (25x25mm) but of course the track and sleepers considerably deeper.  So with about a meter of angle in the middle and say 30cm of track at the end of each cassette there is now a section for the loco cradle to be used (groovey) but there is no sidewall protection for the stock (when the cradle is at one end, the other will have the last couple of wagons or last coach exposed).  So OK, i add some MDF to the sides as well - its going to make the cassette heavier though and in the central section, double up on the wall as there is already angle there but it can only help with rigidity?  So there is my sidewall protection runing the whole length of the cassette and i can now put some form of bar across each end too to stop stock rolling off right?

 

So what i now have is a heavy, very long casette but one that you could likely hit a cricket ball into the stands with.  Heavy and over engineered i can put up with.  The problem really remains with the transition from track to angle and then back to track.  The central section is nearly a meter long piece of angle and the only solution i can think of is to pack under neath it with something the right height.  Of course it has to be exactly the right height to match the track or all my stock will bounce over the transition step.  And of course the packing needs to be a meter long and 25mm wide.  Now if i glue it down to the base, then glue the angle to it, then screw it all together too, the thickness of the two layers of glue are liekly to offset the carefully measured heights as well...

 

So right now I am thinking about abandoning the angle and going with - 12mm MDF base, 5mm MDF sides glued and screwed, 6 coats of varnish and then Hornby set track code 100 for the full length...

 

Will it work, well sure I can now put a cradle absolutely anywhere on the cassette and the set track will be robust and straight but locating/rerailing stock will be a pain compared to the drop n slot of the angle/plasticard.

 

But is it the best way???

 

And here is where the folk of RMWeb can help.  You have read what i am trying to do (and by now are totally bored and tabbing out to YouTube), can you offer any advice on a way of building my casettes that a: allow the use of a loco lift at either end, and b: retain as much rigidity to support the length.

 

Over to you

[shortliner]

3mm MDF for the base with two lengths of ally L-angle (B&Q) glued to the underside as stiffeners Note that ally should not be used for running track - it dumps oxide on the wheels which then transfers to the rails! - two lengths of 3mm MDF glued to the sides to form walls to stop contents falling off - code 100 track glued down the centre with it ending 6" before the end of the cassette - the Locolifts slot into the ends of the cassette and slip over the rail and form a bridge with the other ends resting on the track on the layout itself. It should be much less heavy than using 12mm MDF. Glue two small vertical strips to the inner sidewalls near the end of the track to take a drop-in piece of the 3mm MDF to keep contents where they belong if moved, Note look for Everbuild Lumberjack 30 minute wood glue - wear rubber gloves when using, clamp and glue - no screws needed - it will stick the ally too if you make shallow scores on it

Hope it helps

[Crewlisle]

I don't know if this will help you but I replied to a similar problem in 'Cassette Fiddle Yard Access' started on 28/3/2012. My reply was comment No.2 on 28/3/2012. I included drawings and details of my casette system, which is part of the reversing loop on my layout, and I have used it for the last 35 years with no problems. If you want more complete trains, then make another cassette!

[Dale]

Checking it out now, cheers for the pointer.

 

D

[Dale]

I have had a look at the linked thread but unfortunately due to a bought of idiocy, i cant figure out what you're drawing was about.  I shall have a stiff cup of java and have another look.

 

I have had a search about for other threads on cassettes (of which there have been a few) but it seems there has not emerged a sure fire way of building them yet.  I would have thought with all the layouts on the circuit using them, along with home layouts and club efforts, there must have by now been hundreds of casettes built in various ways.  I wonder if there is a better section on RMWeb to post the ultimate question of life.... ok, of cassettes in to attract more views and thus, more opinion?  Alternatively its likely its a subject thats been asked so often folk are tired of repeating themselves?

 

So Jack, with your method you are using the angle so it is flat on the bottom and then the vertical forms part of the sides, helping to hold the wooden sides in place?  Or are you using the angle flat on the bottom of the cassette base and then with the vertical aspect going down so the casettes sits high on two 'runners' formed by the angle (that would make the whole casette a sort of H shape with the angle below and the wooden sides above?

 

PS: ordered some of your funky wood glue, will let you know how i get on with it.

 

D.

[oldknotty]

Dale i built my cassettes from wood strips with aluminum angle I did not like the way it worked any too well so i laid regular flex track in them , now they work a treat .I have a bit of tight fitting wood at one end to stop any run aways and i can remove it to run the loco the other way . I use a small Hornby jobbie that allows me to slide the loco or rolling stock right onto the track with no problems :-) Martin

[Crewlisle]

I have had a look at the linked thread but unfortunately due to a bought of idiocy, i cant figure out what you're drawing was about.  I shall have a stiff cup of java and have another look.

 

 

Tell me what you don't understand about the drawing and I wll clarify it for you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[shortliner]

Are you using the angle flat on the bottom of the cassette base and then with the vertical aspect going down so the casettes sits high on two 'runners' formed by the angle (that would make the whole casette a sort of H shape with the angle below and the wooden sides above?

 

PS: ordered some of your funky wood glue, will let you know how i get on with it.

 

D.

 

Yes the ally angle - because of its L shape - should be able to support a fair amount of weight without deflecting (there is no reason why it can't be supprted along its length anyway!) It will only be really supporting weight when.if it is lifted out loaded - which over the length you are suggesting is probably a two person job anyway. The two vertical sidewalls from the MDF glued to the base, should also help to prevent any sagging deflwction too - Don't put too much of the glue on - it will foam and spread - a thinly spread coat is all that is needed - instructions are on the package - keep it off clothes and skin - it won't come out of material, and it won't wash off skin - it may take a week to eventually wear off and it looks as though you haven't washed your hands - once used seal the spout  - it goes off if exposed to damp and the moisture in the air

[Dale]

Crewlisle - I have had a look over your post again in the crule light of morning and think I see where your comming from now.  Does each casette, when being offered up to the baseboard need to be locked in place by tighteneing up the bolt?

 

Jack, sory to just to be sure I have it, your cassettes have the ally angle on the horixontal and then down from there forming two runners on which the cassete sits, bit like a sledge?

 

D.

[shortliner]

Yes that was the idea - you may be able to arange the width to slot overa solid support

[Crewlisle]

 

Dale - Yes. That is why I mentioned about making a slot in the base of the cassette for an M6 square nut. It allows you to align the track and then to tighten the bolt to maintain the alignment. As I said in the description, the cassettes form part of the reversing loop on the inside of the operating well. Alignment has to be maintained if the reversing loop is used without wanting to remove/replace any cassettes. Who needs a fiddle yard? Just make more cassettes!