Trains4U Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Oh dear... Our stock arrived today. unfortunately 3/4 of them have damaged bodyshells. (Local delivery company perhaps, who knows?) I'd suggest any other retailers out there check theirs before shipping! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted November 13, 2015 Author Share Posted November 13, 2015 Thanks for the heads up, some courier / delivery firms really do need to take more care of the parcels whilst in there care. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BR(S) Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 http://www.ehattons.com/73615/Heljan_6000_Class_60_diesel_in_Railfreight_triple_grey_livery_Supplied_un_numbered_with_sepa/StockDetail.aspx http://www.ehattons.com/73616/Heljan_6001_Class_60_diesel_in_Loadhaul_livery_Supplied_un_numbered_with_separate_waterslide/StockDetail.aspx http://www.ehattons.com/73617/Heljan_6002_Class_60_diesel_in_EWS_livery_Supplied_un_numbered_with_separate_waterslide_numb/StockDetail.aspx Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BritishRail60062 Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 I will be getting the BR version numbered as my beast 60062 with my name on the sides . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trains4U Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) I've been trying to fit an ESU Lokpilot XL to one today. There is a complex lighting board, with a dip switch to control appropriate headlight functions and to turn tail lights on and off. Unfortunately it would appear that it has been designed as a common negative circuit. It would seem that configuring the lighting for DCC, without a major rewiring, is impossible. I'll be writing to Howes and Heljan for advice, but currently I'm stuck and not prepared to strip out the wiring (yet) Edited November 14, 2015 by Trains4U Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BritishRail60062 Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 Just a question for anyone that owns one. How easy is it to open the cab area to fit a driver? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trains4U Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 Very easy, the cab interior is part of the chassis casting, when you take the body off the entire cab including seats are open Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BritishRail60062 Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 Brilliant! That makes things a ton load easier for my planned static diorama . How much are they selling for your end mate? I cannot find them on the Trains4U website . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 I've been trying to fit an ESU Lokpilot XL to one today. There is a complex lighting board, with a dip switch to control appropriate headlight functions and to turn tail lights on and off. Unfortunately it would appear that it has been designed as a common negative circuit. It would seem that configuring the lighting for DCC, without a major rewiring, is impossible. I'll be writing to Howes and Heljan for advice, but currently I'm stuck and not prepared to strip out the wiring (yet) Hmm, I spend a lot of my time fiddling about with 4mm Hornby locos that have been wired as common negative and it's a major pita. This seems like a completely backwards move by Heljan. Please let us know when you get a response as I am due a pile of these in next week and don't relish the prospect of having to rewire all of them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Williams Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 (edited) Message from my friends at Howes - they are contacting Heljan to ensure the Class 60 PDF file goes up on the Heljan website tomorrow. Hope this helps! Edited November 15, 2015 by Cliff Williams Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Williams Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Here is the link to the PDF file for the Heljan O Gauge Class 60 DCC wiring instructions http://Heljan.dk/images/pdf/Heljan%20vejledninger/How%20to%20install%20a%20DCC%20decoder%20in%20the%200%20gauge%20Class%2060.pdf Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trains4U Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Excellent, thanks - I had started swapping the wires around, but didn't know exaclty which ones. I started with the white wire giving directional lights, and nothing from the black, I finished with the black giving directional lights, and nothing from the white. I knew there had to be a happy medium there somewhere! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted November 16, 2015 Author Share Posted November 16, 2015 Here's the diagrams from the Heljan Facebook page. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 So I take it it's not wired as common negative then? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trains4U Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 It is, but by swapping various wires around, it can be changed to common positve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 (edited) It is, but by swapping various wires around, it can be changed to common positve In true comic Pantomine fashion, "oh no it isn't!" If the circuit was common negative constructed, the only way to correct it would be to reverse the led polarities by removing then, reversing them, and re-soldering. I know the Heljan wiring is confusing as they use black cable for their positives and red for the negatives, maybe that's why you think they are common negative as all the black cables need to be bundled together? Edited November 16, 2015 by blueeighties Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trains4U Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Surely, by swapping the cables over (As suggested in the PDF) I am splitting out the negatives on half the LEDs and making it common positive. I made the mistake of swapping all the cables over, not half. - I had an idea that was what I had to do, but didn't know which ones to swap. The 60 has colour coded wiring. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Oh I dunno then, I'm just going off what has to be done with oops common negative stuff. I just wish mine would turn up on the bench so I can have a fiddle,hopefully in one piece! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class59arc Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Oh I dunno then, I'm just going off what has to be done with oops common negative stuff. I just wish mine would turn up on the bench so I can have a fiddle,hopefully in one piece! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class59arc Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Hi all,I got my 2 60s in the post just noticed on my loadhaul one the orange paint scheme is wrong on each of the one ends it bleeds off at the wrong angle is it just mine or anyone else? Sorry if this has already been bought to light Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Hi, Well spotted. I've just noticed that as well. The angle on the bodyside (nearest the camera) should run the other way an copy the other end and not mirror it. I would say that all of them are like that. Oops!! Regards Vin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class59arc Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 (edited) Hey vin its a shame as its a lovely model I'm tempted to try and correct it tbh.i only noticed it today when I was fitting the nameplates I bought from you a while ago Edited November 18, 2015 by class59arc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Hi, I'm going to leave mine as it is too difficult to rectify as the orange paint is quite thick at this point so would have to be taken right back between the lefthand door, grab handle pillar and the grille. Respraying both the orange, whilst getting a paint match on a black undercoat. Then blending the satin black finish as well. This is made even worse on the other side as there is no grille to the right of it. Which colour nameplate background are you going to use? Regards Vin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class59arc Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Vin Colour matching is going to be a pain but I suppose with some careful weathering u could hide it. I know what you mean thou. I've done mine as 60059 Swindon dalesman Regards Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveymills Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Taken at Warley last year as painted by Brian Daniels, it was correct back then ? https://www.flickr.com/photos/daveymills/15019561310/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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