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Proto 2000 axle gear split - replacements?


corax67

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After a significant modelling layoff I have returned to the HO fold. Whilst testing all of my rolling stock (mainly finding DCC addresses) I discovered a problem with a Proto 2000 GP-7 which was locking up one bogie.

 

The interweb kindly advised of a known issue - split drive gears - and this is indeed what has happened to mine.

 

Does anyone know of a UK based source for Proto or Athearn spares as the only USA source I found wanted $47 postage for a little pack of 4 ! ! ! and I really don't want to scrap the loco as it was a lovely runner in the past.

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In the past Model Junction in Slough have had these is stock. As they get stuff like this on an occasional basis drop them an e-mail to see if they can get some in. Also Walthers (who bought out P2K) used to supply parts directly so I suggest checking their website for a contact

 

Dan

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Walthers even did it for free for a while, but I believe they now charge.

 

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/920-584408  , they don't show in stock at the moment however.

 

However, I've found that wheels from an old Athearn bluebox loco fitted fine too. I haven't tried though if the plastic axle on these actually fits the wheels of the P2K sets, as the athearn ones are made from different metal, and you might not like the look of them or have the wrong diameter, it didn't bother me.

 

You might find that the new Athearn RTR wheel sets will fit too, not sure if anyone has tried this, I don't think they're all that different.

see here:

http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATH40029

 

Koos

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I recently got some axle gears from Australia via ebay, excellent service:  http://www.ebay.com/usr/aceantman   Ebay item 231042136693.

 

You can also use the complete Athearn axle assembly if you wish. 

 

At what point did the plastic get changed and gear splitting cease?  I presume it's the plastic used?

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I recently got some axle gears from Australia via ebay, excellent service:  http://www.ebay.com/usr/aceantman   Ebay item 231042136693.

 

You can also use the complete Athearn axle assembly if you wish. 

 

At what point did the plastic get changed and gear splitting cease?  I presume it's the plastic used?

 

The splitting affected four axle Athearn clone Proto 2000 models in the Life Like era - these would have been in brown or blue boxes.  The six axle models and the switchers did not suffer from the gear splits.  Walthers-era Proto models are not known for splitting gears.  But I have had some Athearn split gears (early runs of their RS-3); Atlas engines which are not Athearn clones have also split gears.  Chinese quality plastic I'd reckon...

 

Any of the affected Proto models is liable to have any or all of the axle gears split whether the engine's been operated or not.  The failure shows itself usually in a locomotive that runs down the track going thumph-thump-thump from the split gear (s).  I've had them show up not only as thumpers but as derailers - the gear is what holds the wheels in gauge.  And full lockups like Karl experiences are not uncommon. 

 

Replacements - get the Athearns now.  For a while after Walthers bought LifeLike they were replacing the axles for free...that's stopped.  The new Walthers axles aren't cheap but the wheels themselves are a nicer material but they're a bit dear.

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  • 2 months later...

I've just noticed that Model Junction have Athearn geared loco wheelsets back in stock, they should work with proto locos

 

http://www.modeljunction.info/estore/product_info.php?cPath=25_30_74&products_id=31514

I've discovered that virtually all my 'fleet' of P2K locos need replacement wheelsets!  I'm having to order several sets.

 

None of the locos have run for a few years.  They all ran fine last time out so it's quite a shock to find out that they all just sit there 'buzzing' or clunking down the track.

 

A couple of them seem to be very early examples with virtual Athearn style chassis, others are a bit more modern even with DCC potential but they're all faulty.

 

6 wheel ones are OK though as stated.  Peculiar this as I would have thought the actual wheels and axles would be the same.

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6 wheel ones are OK though as stated.  Peculiar this as I would have thought the actual wheels and axles would be the same.

I suspect it's to do with when the models were made, the GP18 & GP30 were the earliest, maybe Life Like improved their quality control.

 

Nick

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I suspect it's to do with when the models were made, the GP18 & GP30 were the earliest, maybe Life Like improved their quality control.

 

Nick

I don't think that this is necessarily the case. My SD7 is an early 'Athearn' style one and is OK.  My BL2 and Torpedo tubed GP7 are relatively late (one has a sort-of decoder fixing 'thing' on the circuit board*) but all are faulty.

 

* - you can tell that my DCC understanding is very limited......................

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I don't think that this is necessarily the case. My SD7 is an early 'Athearn' style one and is OK.  My BL2 and Torpedo tubed GP7 are relatively late (one has a sort-of decoder fixing 'thing' on the circuit board*) but all are faulty.

 

* - you can tell that my DCC understanding is very limited......................

 

It might have been that they switched factories, or had several suppliers. Indeed if the models have run has no effect, the axles just 'dry out' or are affected by the lubricants over time and split. It's just good fortune we can get suitable replacements relatively easily. 

Mine were split too after several years of  being boxed up.  Replace them with with the Athearns and you'll have no problems. 

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It might have been that they switched factories, or had several suppliers. Indeed if the models have run has no effect, the axles just 'dry out' or are affected by the lubricants over time and split. It's just good fortune we can get suitable replacements relatively easily. 

Mine were split too after several years of  being boxed up.  Replace them with with the Athearns and you'll have no problems. 

I dropped Model Junction an e-mail asking if the ones they have on their website will fit P2K locos.  The reply from Farah is that they are 'not aware that these wheels will fit Proto models'.

 

However, from what I've read here, I will order several sets and hope for the best!

 

Most of the cracks I've found seem to stem from a small indentation on one side of the 'gear muff'.  No idea what this is for but it could be a weak stressed point.

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Not sure, I've never looked at them closely.  

I first tried Athearn wheels from a donor locomotive, which worked fine, I then proceeded to order a couple more to replace them and all is well. 

I would suggest you order a set for one loco first, if it works as advertised by myself and others here, you can always order the rest. :-)

 

And you can tell Model Junction of the results afterwards, so they can update their website with the info and perhaps sell a couple more to those that are not aware. :-)

 

Koos

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Not sure, I've never looked at them closely.  

I first tried Athearn wheels from a donor locomotive, which worked fine, I then proceeded to order a couple more to replace them and all is well. 

I would suggest you order a set for one loco first, if it works as advertised by myself and others here, you can always order the rest. :-)

 

And you can tell Model Junction of the results afterwards, so they can update their website with the info and perhaps sell a couple more to those that are not aware. :-)

 

Koos

Well, I've ordered them so I hope they fit!

 

I'll keep you posted.

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Great, I'm sure you'll find they do. While you have the drives open, it is a good idea to remove the old grease etc, and re-lube them, old grease might have dried out which will also cause poor running.

 

Cheers, Koos

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Great, I'm sure you'll find they do. While you have the drives open, it is a good idea to remove the old grease etc, and re-lube them, old grease might have dried out which will also cause poor running.

 

Cheers, Koos

Yes, that old lube ends up with the consistent (and lubricating properties) of peanut butter...pretty useless.  It's also tenacious stuff to get off...

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Wheels arrived this morning.  They are fractionally larger than the P2K ones but seem to fit OK.  One problem I have with a GP30 is that it seems to have seized up.  I had to completely strip it down (which was in itself an interesting excercise!) and it worked for a while OK as light engine but as soon as I hitched it up to a train it jammed again.  i wonder if I should completely clean out, degrease and re-lube everything.  Some of the existing lube is a bit sticky!

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I would indeed clean out the gears and re-lube. I'm guessing you mean by 'fractionally' larger, the actual diameter of the wheels is larger? That is possible, but it hasn't caused me any problems, or optical issues for that matter.

 

Did you do just one loco, or more, if more, are the others behaving well and it's just your GP30 causing issues?

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This is a problem with a number of locos. The Airfix (Bachman?) LNER 0-6-0T was prone to it. I have 3 chasses and all have split gears, and sometimesother axles as well.

I also have a Suydam PE work car (ca 1970) with a split gear -- it would run a few inches and jam, then back up and jam. (I need to contact Hollywood foundry on this.)

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I would indeed clean out the gears and re-lube. I'm guessing you mean by 'fractionally' larger, the actual diameter of the wheels is larger? That is possible, but it hasn't caused me any problems, or optical issues for that matter.

 

Did you do just one loco, or more, if more, are the others behaving well and it's just your GP30 causing issues?

Slightly larger diameter, about .5 - .75mm?  They are described as 42" on the packaging and measure approx.12.25mm which is correct.  P2K wheels are around 11.75mm'ish.

 

It's only the GP30 that's been a bit naughty, all the others worked well straight away.  However, I tried it again yesterday and it worked.  It was quickly put back into its box before it could change its mind!  As it's N&W it won't see much work on my WM layout.  I suppose I only ever bought it in a fit of overt enthusiasm - and it was well priced.

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