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4MM 3D priting


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ok, so, I have the locos, stock, layout, track building all under way, that just leaves the lovely odds and ends of detail to play with, so, a mix of scratch build and 3D printing for larger numbers of similar items. the first in mind is the large number of wooden packing crates used to transport lamps, some components for machinery and other parts, for these I have aimed at 30MM long, 17MM wide and 7MM tall, giving a large crate, there are two versions of this at the moment, one with out a lid, and one with its lid on, the final variation will have a separate lid.

 

the open crate, the thickest wall is 1.4MM thick...

packing%2520crate%2520open.jpg

 

the planks are 0.8, and the gaps between are 0.2MM wide and 0.2MM deep

 

the closed version

 

packing%2520crate.jpg

 

 

and another work in progess, a clip board in 4MM! test print for the crates should be here shortly...

 

clipboard%2520MK1.jpg

 

 

Thoughts so far people?

 

Sean

 

 

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Looks good.  One thing I notice on your crates is that some of the faces are inverted.  Sketchup uses white for an 'outside' face and the blue-grey colour for 'inside faces' (it calls them 'front' and 'back' but I find those names misleading).  Having faces the wrong way around can cause problems with .stl files later because the printer doesn't know what's inside the solid and what's not.  

 

Some software is clever enough to make a sensible guess and correct it - Netfabb and meshlab can do this for you.  However, if you can get it right at the design stage it will probably save you hassle later on.

 

Before exporting from sketchup I go into the 'Styles' tab and change the colours to be bright red and green so that it's obvious if I've made a mistake.

You can change a face by right clicking on it and choosing 'reverse face'.

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You should also remove all lines that are not necessary for the geometry. 

 

It seems that you have a lot of lines that are not needed. From experience I know that such lines can cause trouble during the export to .stl. 

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Hmm.  So, those red faces should all be green.  They may be 'inside' the crate but they aren't inside the solid material.  If it's facing air it should be green and if it's facing solid material it should be red. 

Wherever you position the camera you should only be able to see one colour.  All green if the camera is in 'air' and all red if you've moved inside the solid.

 

Imagine 3d printing a house.  If you stand in one of the rooms everything you can see would be green.  If you stand outside the house everything you can see would be green.  If you were inside the cavity walls you'd see red.

 

And I agree with Hawk - using Sketchup's "soften/smooth edges" tool and ticking "coplanar faces" will do most of the work for you.  Specifically all the little lines around the bottom of the slats which are all in the same plane could be removed

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AHHHH! It all makes sense now, cheers Rabs :)

 

I add my background in 3D drawing and basic CAD is in art, so things like which way a face was didnt *usually* matter, as long as it was visually OK it did the job...

 

Hawk, thanks for the advice, after about another half hour, we have this

 

packing%2520crate%2520third%2520draft.jp

 

 

thoughts please Gents?

 

Please forgive my sluggishness, this is a new field for me to be playing with, but its a huge amount of fun...

 

oh, hear is an image of the .STL

 

674x501_1553786_1794064_1386609109.jpg

 

 

Sean

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So, now the base crate is sorted, it was relitively strait forward to get the other two versions finished and into STI format.

 

the second type has a separate lid

 

packing%2520crate%2520separate%2520lid.j

 

 

And the third is lidded..

 

674x501_1557176_1795916_1386629660.jpg

 

 

And I have just noticed the slat work on the lid hasnt come through... damn...

 

Sean

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

They look great Sean. Out of interest, how much do Shapeways charge for such a small model? Is there a minimum order charge for things like that or did you print several?

The detail has come out really well. Not sure my reprap would have kept the plank details!

 

Dave

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