sub39h Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 Hi guys, I tried a search but looking for "which glue" and the like comes up with a vast number of unrelated topics. I ordered the Bratchell 319 in NSE as an advance order to save some money. I would have liked a ready to motorise but advance orders only come in ready to assemble. I was wondering what glue would be most suitable? I used to be a Games Workshop modeller a long long time ago and they used to do this polystyrene cement in a little bottle with a brush. I thought about using that at first but they do not sell this anymore. I was wondering if someone could recommend a strong plastic glue, preferably that dries clear and does not damage paint in the event that I make a mess! TIA, S. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 I use a plastic solvent suitable for the ABS plastic they use. The one I use is local to Australia (Simply Glues Tetra) but other manufacturers have suitable products. The US Plastruct brand is a good one that works. NOTE: these solvents can dissolve the paint though. I am careful to apply the solvent to the insides of the joints, away from any paint work. I should add that I have only built one of Bratchell's kits to date, a four-car class 455 in Network South East livery but I will be putting my words into practice again very soon as my Network South East class 319 is on its way even now (I pre-ordered!). If you wish to avoid the solvent glues, you could try a contact cement but my experience with these is that they also will damage paintwork. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 Both Revell and Humbrol do liquid poly cement in dispenser bottles that have a very fine stainless tube to direct the adhesive precisely to the place where it should go. They have the advantage over the little bottles of being much more difficult to knock over... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 Most solvent based glues suitable for ABS plastic will harm the paintwork. My personal preference would be Slaters Mek Pak. You'd need to apply it very sparingly with a fine brush, say a 00 or 000. And be prepared to do a bit of touching up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcaravanner Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 Most solvent based glues suitable for ABS plastic will harm the paintwork. My personal preference would be Slaters Mek Pak. You'd need to apply it very sparingly with a fine brush, say a 00 or 000. And be prepared to do a bit of touching up. Gaugemaster also supply a special syringe style applicator (called Pin flow) for liquid adhesives I used to use an old glass insulin syringe until I dropped it LOL but there are lots of liquid plastic adhesives on the market but of course with the new Royal Mail regs I doubt if they can be posted now Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
crompton 33 Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 On my DC kit's i use plastic weld. you brush it down the joints on the inside but it will remove paint. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sub39h Posted December 23, 2013 Author Share Posted December 23, 2013 Thanks for the reponses guys. I'm on my iPhone over the Christmas period so not able to thank your posts individually at present. It seems that the solvents in all plastic glues will damage paint so I'd best be careful! I like the idea of a thin application nozzle so I'll start with those recommendations. Happy holidays and happy new year to you and your families if I do not get in touch before then Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
piranha230 Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 Thanks for the reponses guys. I'm on my iPhone over the Christmas period so not able to thank your posts individually at present. It seems that the solvents in all plastic glues will damage paint so I'd best be careful! I like the idea of a thin application nozzle so I'll start with those recommendations. Happy holidays and happy new year to you and your families if I do not get in touch before then hi, the pre-liveried bratchell kits are best built up using superglue for the bodyshells. do not fit any of the side windows or the cab ends. if you do you will end up with frosty fingerprint glazing. leave all the bodyshells to vent off the superglue and fully cure. then when that's all done fit your side windows and cab ends using normal plastic glue. don't use the plastic weld glue for the bodyshells its too thin and it will seep through and ruin the pre-liveried finish. use the plastic weld for the underframe components and bogies. the plastic weld is ideal for the unpainted kits Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 For the glazing (on any kit I build!) I use Micro Krystal Klear to glue it in. This product is intended to be a glazing medium itself, and works very well for small apertures, but I use it as the glue for larger windows. It resembles PVA (white) glue but dries clear and fills any gaps left and, most importantly, doesn't attack paintwork. It also washes off with water (while still wet), so any that squeezes out when pushing the glazing into place from behind the opening can be simply wiped away; any that gets on the glazing itself can be wiped away with a damp rag but if you miss it, it doesn't show anyway! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sub39h Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 Thanks again chaps. My local model shop only stocked glue n glaze which I think is in effect the same stuff as Krystal Klear. The model shop attendant who served me suggested plastic weld for my particular set of circumstances so I bought a bottle (figuring if nothing else I can use it on the bogies as suggested). I am a little put off with the idea of using superglue as I would like a little working time to sort out alignments before the glue goes off. Every super glue I have ever used has basically no working time! I also have a habit of getting it EVERYWHERE, which on an expensive kit would be a bit of a disaster! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sub39h Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 Right guys, I put together my first kit. (I've bought 2.) I did the ATS with super glue but the remainder with a brush and the plastic weld. Plastic weld is definitely the way to go. It behaves in exactly the same way that the GW Polystyrene Cement I wanted in the first place works. I've left the ATS 24hrs to completely dry before I'm going to add the glazing. I'll probably leave it another 2 days just to be absolutely sure. Another advantage of the plastic weld is that you can add the glazing right away. The bodies take absolutely no time at all to assemble. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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