Project 2014/01 DCC Sound for DJH kit built 9F

[kitefighter]

Has anyone had DCC Sound fitted to a OO gauge kit built DJH Class 9F?

 

First project for 2014 is to have the model below converted to DCC Sound.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/23973738@N03/8371017269/in/set-72157632495736707

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/23973738@N03/8372084322/in/set-72157632495736707/

 

My first experience with a kit build loco conversion has not gone well, despite sending the model off to a professional (see previous post). So my next question is, does anyone have any recommendation for a specialist who converts kit built to DCC Sound?

 

Thanks. And Happy New Year.

[Lady_Ava_Hay]

The only recommendation for locos built from metal kits is to ensure that live chassis is not used. This involves the use of fully insulated wheels on all axles and engineering pick ups to as many wheels as possible.

 

This also means that metal brake blocks etc are kept well away from wheels.

 

To my knowledge, no existing kit loco has been modified to cope with DCC. i do recall a thread which suggested that two metal kit locos meeting buffer to buffer would cause a short if both were using chassis return but facing in opposite directions.

 

I had fun and games with Comet coach kit bogies and was suitably impressed with the sparks and clicking of the controller cut out. I fitted RTR Bachmann bogies in short order!

[kitefighter]

The only recommendation for locos built from metal kits is to ensure that live chassis is not used. This involves the use of fully insulated wheels on all axles and engineering pick ups to as many wheels as possible.

 

This also means that metal brake blocks etc are kept well away from wheels.

 

To my knowledge, no existing kit loco has been modified to cope with DCC. i do recall a thread which suggested that two metal kit locos meeting buffer to buffer would cause a short if both were using chassis return but facing in opposite directions.

 

I had fun and games with Comet coach kit bogies and was suitably impressed with the sparks and clicking of the controller cut out. I fitted RTR Bachmann bogies in short order!

 

Really? What a bleak prospect that the only models that can work well with DCC are factory made plastic mass produced ready to run examples and that it is beyond the wit of British modellers, professional or dedicated amateur to apply the same principles of DCC & Sound to kit built models....

[Lady_Ava_Hay]

Really? What a bleak prospect that the only models that can work well with DCC are factory made plastic mass produced ready to run examples and that it is beyond the wit of British modellers, professional or dedicated amateur to apply the same principles of DCC & Sound to kit built models....

 

I think I may have misled you. I was NOT alluding to any modeller's prowess in modifying, merely the kit manufacturers reticence in modifying the kit at the factory.

 

I approached Southern Finecast when I was building my Dock Tank and they confirmed that they were happy to supply the bits needed if asked and at no extra cost.

 

i can't answer for other kit manufacturers but I have no doubt that they would supply all insulated wheels

[Nigelcliffe]

I have had a modest fleet of kit built locos through my workshop, in some cases decades after they were built. They have left with DCC sound, and in most cases, stay alive circuits.

 

Like track, there is good electrical design and bad electrical design. Doing things to a good design is the same in DC and DCC. Pedalling stories about DCC friendly kits or turnouts makes people think DCC is somehow different electrically; yet there are still only two wires and they must not touch!

 

Kits which assume electrically live bodies or only put pickup on one side of a loco and the other side of a tender are poor designs. Only picking up from half the wheels is going to mean less good running than using all of them, and electrically live bodies can short out DC in exactly the same way as DCC. I'd not be surprised to learn such kits are still sold, there is a lot of old tat produced and labelled as kits.

 

Wheels live to frames are fine if the body is then insulated from the frames. Do it on both sides and you have split frame pickup which is simple and reliable.

 

Right, back to the bench with a split frame kit built tank loco, wheels live to each frame, fully sprung, body neutral. Kit is a reasonably decent design, and its being built with DCC in mind.