hartleymartin Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 I tried to lower the body of the Hornby terrier, but the big motor in the tanks/boiler prevents us from making the model sit at the correct height. Is there a suitable replacement motor which can be fitted to the existing chassis, or should I look at purchasing a replacement chassis from Comet? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 To be quite honest, if you want to improve the appearance of the Hornby Terrier the chassis has to go since, barring the number of wheels and their spacing, it is precious little like the real thing. Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Hughes Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 To be quite honest, if you want to improve the appearance of the Hornby Terrier the chassis has to go since, barring the number of wheels and their spacing, it is precious little like the real thing. Adam Agreed! The Terriers had a very lightweight chassis, and sat very low on it (hence the buffers poking above the buffer beams) and the Hornby one just doesn't hack it. What the Hornby chassis does offer is weight in the right place, and if you replace it with the (excellent) Comet etched job then you may find that you have adhesion problems, and the easiest way to fix those is to build it either sprung or compensated; but if you only want to pull a coach or two or just a few wagons that may not be a problem for you. (The prototypes were a fine combination of light weight, decent pulling power and a surprising ability to run all day on a bunker-full of cheap coal, so it's no wonder that Col. Stephens bought up so many!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Bel Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Hi Martin, As others have said, the best way is to replace the chassis. I used the excellent Branchlines product fitted with a Mashima motor. With some new buffers and some remodelling of the splashers a reasonable representaion of the real thing can be had. I modelled Fenchurch, but there are many more variations available!! Cheers for now, Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
burgundy Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 My attempt at improving a Terrier is documented here. Hope this helps Best wishes Eric Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWCR Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 A repeated error is the position of the tank filler. This should be in the centre of the tank not as modelled. The same error appeared on the N gauge model. I suspect it came about from photos and lining it up with the dome. The dome position varies according to boiler type fitted. With the some boilers it did line up with the dome centreline. Others it lines up with the rear of the dome Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Tim Shackelton did a chapter on a Terrier conversion in his book on plastic locos from Wild Swan. His was for the Edge Hill Light Railway but the methods could apply to any version. He used the Branchlines frame and a Mashima. HTH David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 I was hoping to find a prototype conversion which would have minimal modifications required for the body. However, since it is clear that I need to replace the buffers, I'm wondering if there are any tips to rebuilding this model to resemble No. 11 on the Isle of Wight. I think that this one would not require me to hack the sand-boxes off the front wheel splasher, but I will need to replace the bunker. I chose No. 11 as the all-over plain black livery will be the easiest to reproduce. I'm not great when it comes to painting.This throws up yet another issue: What to do with the left-over chassis? This did start out as a cheap impulse-purchase... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Bel Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Hi Martin, Golden Arrow models make a replacement large IOW bunker for the Terrier, only costs £5. Sorry I don't know how to post a link. Cheers for now, Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Where can I get suitable replacements for the buffers? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Hughes Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 A tricky one! The Stroudley buffers are very distinctive, and in the end I turned up a set on the lathe. The buffers that came with the ancient K's kit were probably the best bit of the whole thing, being nicely turned and sprung, though with a nasty tendency to jam; if you can find a junk one on eBay then it may be worth buying it just for the buffers, though the clacks are rather better than the Hornby version too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 I think that the first thing I want to do is put on the new bufferbeams. My biggest issue with the terrier is that they sit too high and this is only painfully obvious now that I had fitted kadee couplings for close-coupling on a shunting layout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 Well, the razor saw came out and the bunker is being modified. I'm not using the conversion kit. I just lopped off the read of the bunker and will use plasticard to fill the gap. At the moment I cannot obtain replacement buffers, but I've been working on modifying the existing buffer beams to set the buffers at a more prototypical height. I'll also be moving the tank filler caps and removing the vastly-over-scale tank vents. This conversion will be to Isle of Wight No. 11 as she appeared in Southern unlined black. I'm not into lining of locomotives (my native New South Wales Government Railways had most locomotives in unadorned black) and the plain black livery will be easy to carry off with a Tamiya spray can. Are there replacement wheelsets available? I would like to use something closer to prototypical appearance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horfield Mob Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 A terrier is modified in George Dent's book "Detailing and modifying RTR locos". I am not qualified to comment on how good the results are. He does seem to mod some areas and leave others. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted December 4, 2014 Author Share Posted December 4, 2014 Another RM Web modeller has kindly undertaken the work to design new buffer beams to be 3D-printed by shapeways. After thinking long and hard about how much work I was prepared to do to the model, I felt that new buffer beams with the buffers lowered to a more realistic height, and a few cosmetic improvements to the body would suffice. My main interest is in O scale, but I do still collect small OO gauge tank engines, as I am rather fond of the prototypes. At the end of the day, I will have given my terrier the extended bunker, hopefully find a way to remove the below-footplate front sandboxes, replace the tank vents with brass rod, move the tank filler caps, and improve the safety valves attached to the dome. I'm generally aiming for a model to represent this terrier: https://www.flickr.com/photos/taffytank/9591124209/sizes/h/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 Another most generous RMweb member (not me) has drawn up the CAD for a 3-printed version of a replacement bufferbeam for the A1X Terrier. I'm still trying to figure out things with shapeways, as I want to get this printed in "White Frosted Detail" but for some reason it won't offer this material at the moment. If you would like one, you can purchase a set of buffer beams with the buffers lowered to the correct height here: http://shpws.me/zgC2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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