RMweb Premium JDW Posted February 8, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 8, 2014 Hi all, quick question, does anyone know if the Bachmann VDA body might fit on a Hornby VDA chassis? I already know the Bachmann one has the buffers on the body, and they're attached to the chassis on the Hornby one, but apart from that, might it fit? I ask because I noticed there are quite a few misprinted ones going cheap on eBay (eg http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bachmann-EWS-VDA-Van-Body-/221368453961?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item338a968b49 - prices vary between sellers though), and wondered if it might be quicker and easier than dusting mine off and trying to remove the "vent" moulding from the roof.. Thanks, JDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 The Bachmann chassis, although not perfect, is light years better than the Hornby one so you'd be better off filing the vents. The VBA is the one that has the vents. The VDA has the external framework. Check out Paul Bartletts's website to compare details of body and chassis. http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brvda http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brvaa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium JDW Posted February 8, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 8, 2014 Thanks for your comments - I meant the big moulded "vent" on the centre of the roof, seen here http://www.ehattons.com/images/products/R6349_RULER.jpg on the Hornby one. I know the Bachmann one is better hands down, but since there are Bachmann bodies going cheap, and I already have Hornby chassis, and I don't want/need them enough to justify £15+ each, my choice is average body + average chassis, or better body + average chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveb860 Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 At £1.99 a bodyshell, it's got to be worth a punt. I disposed of my Hornby ones when the Bachmann versions came along, so can't answer your question though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Is this the later Hornby 'solid' underframe or the earlier 'floppy' one? There shouldn't really be any problem that a razor saw can't fix in either case, but not having tried it, I can't be 100% sure. It's certainly worth a go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium JDW Posted February 9, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 9, 2014 I didn't realise there was a later 'solid' underframe - I'm assuming you mean it doesn't have the single-wheel 'bogies'? Mine are quite old, around 15 years or so, but fitted with new-style metal wheels, which does wonders by itself, compared to the original white-rimmed plastic ones!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 I didn't realise there was a later 'solid' underframe - I'm assuming you mean it doesn't have the single-wheel 'bogies'? Mine are quite old, around 15 years or so, but fitted with new-style metal wheels, which does wonders by itself, compared to the original white-rimmed plastic ones!! Yes, though most of mine (IIRC one later one on a hopper wagon) have the earlier version* and the metal wheels are a great improvement, especially if fitted with disc brake inserts. Sorting the 'bogies' is another issue...... (My thoughts run to gluing one and tethering the other so that it will rock but not turn, so that there is a degree of equalisation, which is of advantage on a LWB vehicle * I assume, but am not sure, that the original underframe have all been replaced by now. Knowing Hornby I wouldn't bet on it. (The air brake era is not my primary interest - 15 years old is quite new in my collection!) An improved version of the CDA appeared just after I'd acquired my third one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 Yes, though most of mine (IIRC one later one on a hopper wagon) have the earlier version* and the metal wheels are a great improvement, especially if fitted with disc brake inserts. Sorting the 'bogies' is another issue...... (My thoughts run to gluing one and tethering the other so that it will rock but not turn, so that there is a degree of equalisation, which is of advantage on a LWB vehicle * I assume, but am not sure, that the original underframe have all been replaced by now. Knowing Hornby I wouldn't bet on it. (The air brake era is not my primary interest - 15 years old is quite new in my collection!) An improved version of the CDA appeared just after I'd acquired my third one! Fixing one end, whilst giving the other limited movement improves running considerably. I've gone even further on a few, and used the MJT W-irons (2298 on here http://www.dartcastings.co.uk/mjt.php#SuspensionSystems-WagonCompensationUnits ) I cut away a square section of the floor around the mounting pivot to fit, and then put in a false floor. This adjusts the height difference when you mount the W-irons. I've then removed the W-irons and bearings/springs from the Hornby 'bogie', and thinned the back with a coarse file, before fixing to the brass W-iron. Don't, however, be tempted to use the Bachmann split-axle wheels with brake discs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.