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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Corbs

 

I have looked at some pics of the P2 where I thought Bachmann V2 Cylinders and valve gear were used.

 

I have to say I defer to Graeme Kings post where he said that the parts used were the original Hornby P2 Cylinders and the piston rod then the extra bits would be the V2 valve gear only which would connect the 2nd driving axle to the radius link I think its called but without the piston rod. I apologise if I am confusing with my description.

 

What I am trying to say is that the Bachmann cylinders and the connecting rod are not needed, only the top section and the valve gear part that are fitted in place after the cylinder rod before the screw is fitted.

 

I hope this makes sense.

 

Cool, I still have the P2 gear so can have a look into that!

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  • RMweb Gold

Apologies for the lack of progress on the two Gresley-ish beasts, chaps. The P2 chassis needs a section lopping out of it so I need a suitable hacksaw as mine are only really useful for plastic and wood. I was contemplating doing it with the grinder, but it's a bit vicious.

I've been doing some more cobblin' over on my blog, making a little Dübs-esque 2-4-0T out of a Hornby 'Pug', Holden tank, and a marker pen with some Adams Radial bits.

 

post-898-0-96824300-1503611469.jpg

post-898-0-48915700-1503611469.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

A small amount of progress today as I dragged myself away from the PS3.

 

I decided that the grinder option was ridiculous so my old razor saw was offered up as a sacrifice.

 

Chop, chop, chop in the right places!

 

post-898-0-09396900-1503611510.jpg

 

This photo shows where material needs to be removed - right at the front of the chassis, and a section by the front driving wheel (which will likely be trickier)

 

post-898-0-50677200-1503611510.jpg

 

and this photo shows how this relates to the rest of the body.

 

post-898-0-85276900-1503611510.jpg

 

Once the body fit and mounting is sorted I can sort out the steam pipes, glue it together, and then work on mounting the cylinders and valve gear.

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  • RMweb Gold

Yes I hadn't thought about using a file - though I had considered the dremel but it creates a heck of a mess and the flying bits of metal aren't appreciated by the cat. I've ordered a hacksaw which should hopefully do the job.

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Try to use an "alloy suitable" blade. they have less TPI than blades for steel et-al and do not clog so easily (Hope I'm not "teaching granny how to suck eggs" here...). A Junior hacksaw is a different kettle of fish though.

Cats..... Yes, I am aware of their "dislikes" but also the fact that some choose to sleep on a layout plonking themselves down any old how, in any place, irrespective of scenic items.

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks for the advice guys, will take it all on board.

 

Corbs, or anyone in general, I'm thinking of buying an old Hornby Britannia pony truck and modifying it to go on the back of a Bachmann Donald/Douglas 0-6-0 chassis, what do you think?

 

Sounds intriguing. Is that with the outside frames and all, or just the wheelset? I guess it depends on where the pivot mounts (if you want it to be able to swivel), or is it flangeless?

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Thanks for the advice guys, will take it all on board.

 

 

Sounds intriguing. Is that with the outside frames and all, or just the wheelset? I guess it depends on where the pivot mounts (if you want it to be able to swivel), or is it flangeless?

 

My plan is to strip off all but the wheelset and then mount it to the tender drawbar pivot, it is a lot of metal to get rid of and I may want to change the wheels from solid bosses to spoked. 

 

ScR

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  • RMweb Gold

My plan is to strip off all but the wheelset and then mount it to the tender drawbar pivot, it is a lot of metal to get rid of and I may want to change the wheels from solid bosses to spoked. 

 

ScR

Would a front axle be easier to adapt? As it would already be set up to swing back and forth. Maybe something like a V2 or Standard tank one?

On my NCB 0-6-2T I used a BR Standard 4 2-6-4T rear bogie sawn in half for the trailing wheelset.

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Would a front axle be easier to adapt? As it would already be set up to swing back and forth. Maybe something like a V2 or Standard tank one?

On my NCB 0-6-2T I used a BR Standard 4 2-6-4T rear bogie sawn in half for the trailing wheelset.

 

that might be an idea, I tried with a K1 front wheel set, seemed to be a little to much lead for my liking on first examination, however it wouldn't be much to open out the mounting hole, so I'll keep it in mind.  

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  • RMweb Gold

that might be an idea, I tried with a K1 front wheel set, seemed to be a little to much lead for my liking on first examination, however it wouldn't be much to open out the mounting hole, so I'll keep it in mind.  

This might work? In fact it may have been one like this that I used on the 0-6-2T

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hornby-X4868-Front-Pony-Truck-For-Fowler-2-6-4-Tank-Loco-/322198969819?hash=item4b048e1ddb:g:2IAAAOSwWfFXj6lI

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  • RMweb Gold

Choppy chop... 1 broken saw blade later.

post-898-0-71277000-1503611560.jpg

 

Nearly there, some more material to remove. Rather than notching the front of the chassis block I elected to just chop it off.

 

post-898-0-25878800-1503611561.jpg

post-898-0-70604700-1503611558.jpg

 

Nearly time to fix the steam pipes, then glue it all together and work out the fixings.

 

post-898-0-27979400-1503611560.jpg

Edited by Corbs
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Hi mate, thanks for checking in :)

 

I've been a bit distracted with these projects at the moment (featured in my blog)

 

3D printed LBSCR E2 on Hornby Thomas chassis

post-898-0-28220000-1503610888.jpg

 

Turning a L&MLR Kitson 2-6-4T 009 kit into a standard gauge 2-6-0T, and the hopper wagon behind it is my first attempt at card modelling (using an empty chocolate box and tri-ang chassis) in the style of an enlarged Snailbeach hopper.

post-898-0-93614900-1503610888.jpg

post-898-0-02335200-1504012381.jpg

 

As for a 4-8-2, I'll try and get a pic of the pony truck mounting so you can see what bogie could be adapted to fit, but I don't thing it would be too difficult to do. I'd recommend the chassis highly as its a very good runner.

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  • RMweb Gold

Photobucket's finally working again it seems.

 

On TK&F No.6, the conversion of a 009 Leek and Manifold loco to standard gauge, following some advice I've been changing the bufferbeams. I snipped off the small buffers, and added some sytrene strip behind the bufferbeams.

 

Filling in the gaps with green putty and in the middle of sanding down at the moment, but the difference is notable and I think balances the look of the loco much more.

 

post-898-0-62555200-1503610961.jpg

 

I also cut and shut the cylinder bracket to narrow the width and bring the cylinders under the running plate.

post-898-0-12138200-1503610962.jpg

 

I have some larger diameter buffers to go on it from RT models.

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  • RMweb Gold

Big buffers and transfers to bring it in to the fleet!

post-898-0-76655700-1503611008.jpg

 

post-898-0-77751700-1503611007.jpg

 

Posing in the yard

post-898-0-05114300-1503611007.jpg

 

Bringing a large goods train in to the yard with No.5. The lead ore wagon has gained a load ('coal' glued to a bit of card, then painted brown).

post-898-0-28679900-1503611009.jpg

post-898-0-20624600-1503611008.jpg

 

Still got to make the front pony truck, cab steps and add couplings and pipes, but it's getting there. It's had a coat of dullcote as well, which I think helps make it less toy-like.

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  • RMweb Gold

Today a Hornby K1 pony truck arrived. This has an NEM pocket, which is perfect as I can slot a kadee straight in.
 
This is it being mocked up - it was quite loose in this state and some careful packing and securing means it is now attached properly and pivots well.
post-898-0-71154000-1503611090.jpg
 
I got it from Peters Spares:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322348108323?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
I cut it down and used the 2nd hole to mount it on a pivot, as the longer arm fouled the electrotren chassis.
 
I really like how it looks now. You may notice I also made some cab steps, from marking, cutting and bending some brass strip in an S shape, and glueing a small strip of styrene to act as the middle step.
post-898-0-96110800-1503611089.jpg
post-898-0-08046500-1503611091.jpg
 
I think they make quite a good pair. Might have to make a 3rd one...
post-898-0-37505200-1503611090.jpg

The eagle eyed amongst you will note there is not currently any vacuum gear fitted. Well, I don't have any coaching stock (yet) so presumably the W&SR is still running passenger services.

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  • RMweb Gold

Thank you!

Since the two tank engines are near completion, my attention has turned back to the P2/4 'what if' project.

I finally summoned up the courage to glue Graeme's smokebox and frame extensions to the 'Tornado' bodyshell.

 

Then, some blending, filling, sanding, filler primer and finally black.

post-898-0-25570600-1503611247.jpg

post-898-0-06056900-1503611246.jpg

 

 

post-898-0-56012000-1503611247.jpg

Edited by Corbs
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  • RMweb Gold

I've more or less finished (aside from some small details) No.301 'Thomas Allen'. I must once again commend Gavin AKA Knuckles for his work on this 3D printed kit. It was very very good and I'll be ordering a FUD Furness Railway Sharpie fairly soon.

The link to the kit is here:

https://www.shapeways.com/product/7AM533ZSJ/lb-scr-e2-extended-tanks-body-fud?optionId=57539148

 

I'm a bit ham fisted so care needs to be taken with some of the smaller fittings, but the quality and attention to detail is superb.

 

I compiled the build into a blog post.

 

post-898-0-21187600-1503611287.jpg

post-898-0-69543900-1503611286.jpg

Edited by Corbs
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