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There is a   3D-Printed-N1 by AJ models. That is what I need the N2 chassis for! 

 

Here's one heading for Bradford sometime during the 1950s with Gresley Twin set consisting of Non corridor lav. composite and 5 compartment brake third. This set appears to still sport teak livery. Paint does not adhere to teak very well, so it might be the case that many of this type of coach never received carmine at all!

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Here's N1 #69434 in unlined black with a pair of Thompsons. Bk3rd and semi corridor Lav. composite. These appear to be carmine and the front one at least has square cornered windows. This picture also of a Keighley-Bradford service must be of a later date.

I have in my collection both round corner window crimson pair and square cornered window "Teak painted" pair!

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Lovely pictures, Sasquatch. The lack of lining on the second N1 is a useful feature!

 

I'll be following a similar route in that I'll be using an existing N2 chassis (albeit a Perceverance model) which used to be under a Mainline N2, and the London Road body. (I would go for the 3D printed version but I already have the kit.)

 

Ian

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  • 1 month later...
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Hi Tony.

I'm not getting very far with this project, no excuses, just not in the mood to fiddle with the pin vice drilling out all the handrail holes.

Having said that, I've got to have an x-ray done on my good hand as there's something very painful going on there!

 

There has been no luck with purchasing a Hornby N2 for the donor chassis for the N1. I sure missed the boat on the Olympic split packs!!

However all the parts need for the articulated Gresley (Happy birthday to him) twin set have been obtained from a chap in Canada and my coach parts scrap box!!!

 

regards Shaun.

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possible all those windows didn't help ;(....I'm having trouble 'cutting'.....I had hoped I had broken something...which meant it would repair....although the doctor thinks it can be sorted fairly easily...no op....they plan to try me with hand braces to stop me sleeping with my hands clenched in fists......so far Kal has no bruises.... :angel:  So I try the braces when I sleep (well when I get an appointment get them ordered then fitted) and hopefully stop me clenching my hands whilst I sleep....and if I am lucky .....all sorted.

Anyways hope you find a solution to yours Shaun.

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Finally dug this out and got on with some detail work. Eyes hurting after that!

Have added some details (sanding apparatus and lamp irons)to the front of the J52 which is going to be a guinea pig for the weathering techniques. 

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Yesterday More detailing.

I made the drain cocks from electrical wire by stripping off the insulation, soldering two parts together, bending to shape and slipping small bits of insulation back on. Three different sets of steps from laddering white metal(scrap box) and scratch built from plastic card have been added as have the coupling hooks, rear spectacle bars and lamp irons. Since this picture has been taken the sand boxes cab floor and guard irons have been attached. I gave it a test run and am going to paint it today when it warms up a tad.

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The weathering on J52 #3975 consists of painting the foot plate and smoke box matt black & the coupling rods acrylic charcoal.Grey, black and brown weathering powders were applied evenly all over and light rust to the smoke box.

The whistle is a small bit of 1.5mm plastic rod turned in the mini drill and super glued on top of the Hornby one.

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Looks grand Sasquatch. I can heartily recommend Andrew's N1 kit (and J50 too) - they scrub up very nicely and build up very easily too.

 

Your J52 I think is the Hornby model - what are the running qualities like, and do you feel it needs lowering a tad on the chassis?

 

I ask as I have one of these plodding it's way to me in the mail and a friend suggested the buffer heights and overall height of Hornbys model may be affected by the use of the standard 0-6-0 chassis.

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Yesterday More detailing.

I made the drain cocks from electrical wire by stripping off the insulation, soldering two parts together, bending to shape and slipping small bits of insulation back on. Three different sets of steps from laddering white metal(scrap box) and scratch built from plastic card have been added as have the coupling hooks, rear spectacle bars and lamp irons. Since this picture has been taken the sand boxes cab floor and guard irons have been attached. I gave it a test run and am going to paint it today when it warms up a tad.

attachicon.gifdrain cock.JPG

attachicon.gifJ50 rear.JPG

 

The weathering on J52 #3975 consists of painting the foot plate and smoke box matt black & the coupling rods acrylic charcoal.Grey, black and brown weathering powders were applied evenly all over and light rust to the smoke box.

The whistle is a small bit of 1.5mm plastic rod turned in the mini drill and super glued on top of the Hornby one.

attachicon.gif3975.JPG

I understand the latest copper additions, nice job

 

Can I be nosy and ask about the additional white card, I get the steps.....but what is the rest for?

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Looks grand Sasquatch. I can heartily recommend Andrew's N1 kit (and J50 too) - they scrub up very nicely and build up very easily too.

 

Your J52 I think is the Hornby model - what are the running qualities like, and do you feel it needs lowering a tad on the chassis?

 

I ask as I have one of these plodding it's way to me in the mail and a friend suggested the buffer heights and overall height of Hornbys model may be affected by the use of the standard 0-6-0 chassis.

My two run very well. One is 30 years old and with a little extra weight and good care they run as good as some of Bachmanns later offerings. I have removed the rubber bands from the center wheels which helps lower them. The older one is much slower for some reason. I should investigate huh.

Mainly trains still sell two kits for the under frame one will require modification to the body in order to gain the correct wheel base.

They also sell the correct whistle which does a great deal to the overall appearance of the loco.

http://www.mainlytrains.co.uk/acatalog/4mm-loc-cha-kit-lnerpre-group.html

I'm very tempted to turn my other J52 into a representation of a J55. What's holding me back is the fact it was an 18th birthday present from my grandmother! That's how old it is!! 

 

Regards Shaun

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I understand the latest copper additions, nice job

 

Can I be nosy and ask about the additional white card, I get the steps.....but what is the rest for?

 The original Lima chassis is a crap fast runner so I have modified the body to fit on a GWR Bachmann Chassis and beefed up the maintenance access opening  under the water tanks.

The wheel base is 2mm short but should go unnoticed.   

 

do any of the kits ever have the front boiler open? Fors some strange reason that particular feature has always fascinated me....

a little cameo with some blokes head stuck in side during the cleaning process........ :sungum: ........ :jester:

Not too sure about this question. How ever I do have a Ratio midland railway engine that got ruined and am thinking this would make a great rusting, weed infested cameo with the smoke box door hanging open! Dapol sell plastic loco kits which are commonly used for such models but I don't know if the smoke box door can be modeled open. Lets try googling    Airfix/Dapol loco kits and see what comes up.

 

Edit. The BR Mogul kit could be made this way and the 060 austerity can ! (no longer available).

         Would make an interesting model, especially with your weathering techniques Jaz. Take your pic from one of these

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Lots of work on this this weekend. After spraying with satin black aerosol and give 24 hours to dry I have: picked out the buffer beams in vermillion. Reattached a the parts that fell off. Then drilled a 7/32" hole in the false bunker top and filled the bunker void with BB rifle pellets and poured in some super glue. More BBs have been glued in the tanks and smoke box this has added 60g, the chassis weighs in at 140g total 200g. More may be needed.

I have placed the lion on wheel emblems and numbered the shunter 68940. The whistle from Mainly Trains was carefully bent and fixed with super glue.

Sods law came into play whilst fitting the springs to the buffers. No matter how careful one can be, the carpet monster is always lurking. After about half an hour I smote him down and victoriously retrieved my spring!

To celebrate I took the chassis apart for servicing. The motor is/was a little noisy. The pick up, wheels and axels have been scrubbed with denatured alcohol. All moving parts lubricated with some German model train lube and Labelle 106 plastic compatible lubricating grease. A few times around the layout at full throttle and with the body reattached a snail could over take it at low speed. Result!

 

While I was at it with the aerosol, the pannier body received satin black also. I have learned a lesson here in that the insignia marking should be removed before painting because they reacted with the paint and lifted. The paint was not entirely cured so I attacked it with a Q tip soaked on thinner and stripped the whole tank sides.

When the mood takes my fancy I will swap the body with the GWR pannier and have a BR version for Dunster. Only draw back is the boiler bottom casting is Brunswick green.

 

68940 at work on the layout.

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Nice one, if I do ever get round to having a go at this project I'll be sure to have another read of this

 

 

I agree with Will, what a great thread and makes me want to have a go at this, now where did I put that money box :)

Thanks guys! It's well worth doing and just ask if you have any questions!

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  • 1 year later...
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The next installment here is a J39 rehash. 64257 began life as LNER1996. A Ebay purchase brand spanking in the box. All I did was to add a second lubricator, respray it satin black (straight out of the box), renumber and weather it. After a good hour running-in in each direction she runs like a dream.

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Now for something a little more daring. A K3/1.

The LNER Bachmann K3/3 version came somewhat incomplete in the lining department, lacking its boiler bands and all lining above the foot plate valence.

So I'm employing my modeling license here and assuming one of the first 10 K3s ventured over the Queensbury route in the first two years of the war.

Either way no doubt it should make and interesting model after a few evenings modeling.

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A Hornby N2 has been secured for the N1 project leaving the body for spares. The N2 cab roof forms the basis of the cab conversion.

Bachmann have modeled their K3/3 cab as a separate item which simplifies things. I just need to build up the rest from plastic card and refit the Bachmann handrails.

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Other modifications will include swapping the drive from left to right, faring the tender and possibly heightening the chimney.

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Hi John.

 

 

 

Very sporadic thread this one. I should be building the structures and baseboards for this layout but I find doing what ever modeling takes my fancy keeps me interested.

 

Regards Shaun

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A bit more work got done on the K3/1 cab last night. All the gubbins have been fixed on with cyano, including the piping from the smoke box on the right. I've added an extra cylinder from a left over MJT vacuum set. Some locos carried this feature and I think it will add the overall look. The cab seats have been removed as per prototype and I added the rear lip to the roof from the N2 cab.

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Here's one of the original ten K3s number 4004 with a train of containers, seen here sporting the older style of small lettering and number all on the tender.

All ten were converted to left hand drive and standard LNER loading gauge with lower chimneys and group standard cabs by mid 1941. So that means there's only one livery choice of mixed traffic lined black!

Pictures of them are rare in this condition making this conversion project a bit of a challenge. I might just go for number 4000 as it sort of feels like one to have in my collection.

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More reading on LNER-encyclopedia  

 

The file used here is an old one which is clogged with white metal. This file when used in a circular motion smoothes out plastic card quite well. The joins in the N2 cab parts can be seen by way of the Tamiya filler.

When I get a fire going later this afternoon I'll hit it with primer and satin black aerosols.

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