The Outcast rolling stock thread

[outcastjack]

Hello all,

 

I started a new job and got married this summer so modelling has taken a back seat.

Rayners lane has also been parked whilst I build a new 00 loft layout where I can practice track and stock building in a less arduous environment. (and so I have somewhere to run trains for the first time since I left for Uni)

 

This has precipitated a load of simple kit building to increase my stock.

 

Barry Railway Iron mink:

This was from an ABS kit, which was my first white metal kit , I assembled it using a combination of 225 degree solder for the main structural joints and 70 degree solder for details.

I have had this kit since I was about 15 and at some point had made a real hash of painting it (no start on assembling the side though.

 

I soldered it all together before washing all the flux and old paint off and applying some humbrol grey as a primer.

 

At this point I discovered that these were covered in "All about GWR Iron Minks" published by the HMRS, looking through I discovered that they all had end ventilators so fabricated some from a bit of the same tomato puree tube used for the Beetle roof earlier.

 

I don't have any Barry railway decals (who saw that one coming) =P so am having to paint the markings by hand, some digging found a similar font in word and I made up some templates. at the same time at the same time I made up templates for the large makings on this LMS Van from a Parkside kit and the SR van from a Ratio kit, all are being stockpiled along with a rake of coaches before I embark on the numbering and smaller livery details.

 

Coming soon will be a load of Ratio LMS coaches and a scratchbuilt North Staffs 2-4-0. (this will hopefully form my first successful construction of a scratchbuilt loco and form the required knowledge base for the A-stock motor bogies)

[outcastjack]

[outcastjack]

I finally got around to finishing the Beetle

 

[outcastjack]

Two weeks ago my dad gave me some copies of Railway Modeller that he had from his childhood, the June 1966 issue had an article on the three North Staffordshire J H Adams "19 Class" 2-4-0 tender engines made in 1905 and 1906.

For some time I have been looking for a suitable candidate for an elegant elderly loco to pull a short LMS passenger excursion to north Wales.

This fits the bill perfectly and although these were withdrawn before my period (And before the grouping) I was struck by the looks and will build it anyway. 

This rather faded photo gives a decent view.

[outcastjack]

This post is about a new experience for me, a white metal kit loco. 

 

I picked up a part built dean goods with a load of missing bits very cheaply and decided it would make a good basis for a first effort.

After a few runs, the K's motor mk2? (the smaller one) packed in so I replaced it with a 99p jobby from china and a high level (i think) gearbox.

 

one of the advantages of this was it allowed me to complete the bottom of the boiler which had been removed to allow the K's motor to fit.

a coffee tin proved perfect for the job along with 145 degree solder and a huge amount of flux.

 

fitting up to make sure nothing snags before i finish the boiler off.

 

[outcastjack]

I think having a full boiler barrel is a huge improvement! You can see the coffee tin in question in the back ground.

 

Some lamp brackets fitted!

[hayfield]

A great bit of kit bashing, like the idea of changing the motor and a Highlevel gear box is so much superior to the old Keyser gears. Looking at the kit it seems you have the older style of wheels, how easy was it changing the gear wheel ?

 

Thankfully Keyser made thousands of kits, many of which were either not made or poorly made. The latter catagory can sometimes be snapped up quite cheaply, normally easy to both strip off the paint and un-stick the parts. With a bit of effort many pleasurable hours can be spent rebuilding ans adding additional detail. One word of warning is the problem with the newer D type wheels (plastic spokes) and HMP2 motors (plastic bodies) Both of which often require replacing

 

You can sometimes pick up a well made items for peanuts, I just bought a very well built Adams Radial tank with Romford wheels but no motor, easy fix to fit a motor and pickups

[Graham456]

Hayfield speaks a lot of sense about the fun to be had with Old K's kits, and I like your inprovment to the boiler to even think of filling in the boiler on your first build says volumes for you, also so one was smiling on you when the motor turned to toast so soon before you got to far in to the build, it wouldn't have been so easy when it happened after the build was finished, I all ways wondered if K's had bought in a motor rather than wasting a lot of money on designing there own they might have lasted longer?

But haveing praised you for that

Are you sure about your lamp irons comeing out of the front of the buffer beam rather than being mounted on top of the running plate

Edited October 24, 2017 by Graham456

[outcastjack]

Another major problem was only the top half of the back head as modelled and there was no can floor. Plasticard provided the answer. The springs were made by threading a piece of plastic rod.

[outcastjack]

Thank you Hayfield and Graham.

I was surprised by the lamp iron positioning too, but I am working from a photo of 2516 on Mike Morant's site, I might resite them if I can find a clearer (or older) photo

 

I am lucky in that this came with wheels on plain axles rather like Gibson ones. At some point I might well swap the wheels out for modern ones and replace the connecting ride and crank pins eye.

 

Swapping the drive gear out was surprisingly easy.

Edited October 24, 2017 by outcastjack

[hayfield]

Thank you Hayfield and Graham.

I was surprised by the lamp iron positioning too, but I am working from a photo of 2516 on Mike Morant's site, I might resite them if I can find a clearer (or older) photo

 

I am lucky in that this came with wheels on plain axles rather like Gibson ones. At some point I might well swap the wheels out for modern ones and replace the connecting ride and crank pins eye.

 

Swapping the drive gear out was surprisingly easy.

 

I thought the wheels and gear wheel were firmly fitted?

[outcastjack]

The wheels were a tight interference fit and needed some persuasion with slotted bits of wood. The gear however just had a grub screw.

[outcastjack]

I fabricated a fall plate from yet more of the coffee tin and some 0.5mm brass rod.

 

the hinges are currently a little too promenant but should look better once I line the floor with wood (from some chip shop forks) after the engine gets painted

 

Hand rails were also added to the cab rear 

[outcastjack]

Handrails and just under the foot plate what I assume is a steam pipe? fitted. The buffers supplied were fitted, added a bit of crispness to heads by turning them in a hand drill before fitting.