torikoos Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 I am contemplating trying out one of the new Tsunami Soundcar decoders (freight car noises). Does anyone know of power pickup wipers for retrofitting to a freight car, in order to establish electrical power for the decoder, when retro fitting the average box car? I am aware of the existence of replacement trucks such as this one: http://factorydirecttrains.com/ringengineeringpowerpickuptruck33wheelsmodelppt-33tho.aspx but I was wondering if there are brass wiper sets you could add to any truck? Many thanks, Koos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
torikoos Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 I think I've found something suitable, anyone have experiences dealing with this company? http://store.sbs4dcc.com/sbs4dcchoscaleho-a-f4w-atlflataxlewiper.aspx Koos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prof Klyzlr Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 Dear Koos, If you have Kadee #5 phosphor-bronze centring springs and NWSL superflex wire lying around, you're good to go... http://www.55n3.org/cars/tender_wipers/ Works great with Ath, MDC, Steam-Era, B'mann (HO and On30), Walthers, and other 1-piece plastic trucks... Happy Modelling,Aim to Improve,Prof Klyzlr PS Haven;t dealt with SBS myself, but general feedback is good.The SBS pickups will only allow 1 rail/side per truck, the Kadee #5 style in contrast will allow you to configure a typical US 2-truck/4-axle/8-wheel car to use all wheels as pickups... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
torikoos Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 HI Prof, SBS also supplies an alternative for 'all wheel' pick up, but as particularly in a box car there is often enough space, i was contemplating to fit some form of 'keep alive' system. The link you provide is also very useful. I must admit that just this morning, someone else came up with the same solution (on a different forum), and I think I'm going to try that one first. I like solutions that I can do , with just a bit of work, and no additional spends :-) Koos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glorious NSE Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 Love that kadee spring idea - very clever! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prof Klyzlr Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 Dear Koos, Glorious, Koos, I'm big on "DIY" solutions too, and even if you have to buy Kadee springs(Part # 634, something like AUD$3 for 12x springs, enough to all-wheel-pickup 3 cars,http://www.kadee.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=81&products_id=419 ), it's a long way from a bank-breaker :-) Glorious, I've used these as "drag devices" (mechanical only) to add a calibrated ammount of inertia to cars assigned to small-switching-layout service. That said, I've also actively used the technique to add pickups to steam loco tenders, and to a CSX RCP flatcar (Walthers pulpwood bulkhead flat, with headlights and twin strobes powered by TCS FL2 decoders), and have every intention to use them if/when I get my hands on some SoundCar decoders... ;-) Happy Modelling,Aim to Improve,Prof Klyzlr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
torikoos Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 I've ordered my first one, to try out, from Tony's Train Exchange in the US, because no-one in the UK yet stocks these decoders. I will keep you posted on how I find it. Koos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
torikoos Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 I've received my first Tsunami Soundcar decoder in the mail today. I'm hoping that I'll be able to convert a box car this week, in time for the weekend 'play activities'. :-) Koos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
torikoos Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 The humble beginnings of a Tsunami sound car install in an Atlas box car. The decoder is mounted in the car roof, the speaker is mounted on the floor ( a series of holes drilled first to let the sound come out) and a box constructed that will house lead shot or similar to replace the weight that had to be removed for the speaker. I will also increase the weight of the car for better running qualities and power pick up. Koos Soundcar install by K2K Koos, on Flickr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
298 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Is there any form of "stay alive" cap on board to retain power during supply interruptions...? I'm tempted to try one in a Mechanical Reefer, not only for sound as we discussed on here last year, but to also use a red led and fibre optic to represent the fusee that crews on my road use to tie to the rear knuckle at night for the street running sections. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
torikoos Posted August 20, 2014 Author Share Posted August 20, 2014 Not on the board, but there is a keep alive (soundtraxx calls it current keeper) connector where this can be plugged in. I am adding all wheel pick up though, by means of modified Kadee centering springs. I'm hoping this will give me a good enough power pickup. This build will have no end of train device, or generator sounds (it's not a reefer) so I think that if there is a power interruption, it won't be as noticeable as there are no continuous sound or light effects. Here are the trucks, one modified, the other still 'as build'. Truck power pickups by K2K Koos, on Flickr Koos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Is there any form of "stay alive" cap on board to retain power during supply interruptions...? I'm tempted to try one in a Mechanical Reefer, not only for sound as we discussed on here last year, but to also use a red led and fibre optic to represent the fusee that crews on my road use to tie to the rear knuckle at night for the street running sections. Andy - not sure that a stay alive cap will keep current long enough to power an LED - a suitable battery inside the car, and a magnetic reed switch and suitable tiny magnet to hold it in the "on " position might be a better bet Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glorious NSE Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Not sure it'll help that much if there's sound sucking the juice too, but the TCS "KA" series will keep an LED headlight lit on a non-sound loco for at least 10 seconds... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Wintle Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 They had a train running with a few of these spread along its length at the Credit Valley Railroad store the last time I was in - it was interesting, but it really didn't do much for me. Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
torikoos Posted August 20, 2014 Author Share Posted August 20, 2014 here's a first test: http://youtu.be/xoH0uPLM-6M?list=UUiKMM02w8vLf0WSnbNWIelQ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Reichert Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 here's a first test: http://youtu.be/xoH0uPLM-6M?list=UUiKMM02w8vLf0WSnbNWIelQ I don't think you need worry about having power pick ups . . . . . Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
torikoos Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 I'm finished. The technical stuff was completed today, and I followed up by some weathering. for better performance and contact, I added additional weights, by using the balancing weights for car wheels. These are usually 5 gram weights, that come in strips and have adhesive tape fitted, and they are fairly cost effective too. The car now weighs in at nearly 200 grams, which should be enough. Here's a few pics while being weathered. Before weathering: Weathering a box car by K2K Koos, on Flickr After: Weathering a box car by K2K Koos, on Flickr Koos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.