New to 2mm

[SIMBA1OFF]

Joined the association last year but never got round to getting any further on than that.

Decided to join again this year but plan on making a small layout. Never soldered a kit in my life so big learning curve. I would like to know what tools I need to get me up and running and which is easiest easitrack or copper sleepers route. Any advice would be welcome, I've already put a small base board together 6x1. My interest is the transition era Cambrian area of North Wales. I've in the process of ordering some drop in wheels for the Farish 24 and would love some steam engines as well.

[Graham Hughes]

Hello,

 

2mm FS is a nice scale and gauge to work in you should enjoy it. In answer to your track question as to which is easier I think the clue is in the name. It isn't called easitrack for nothing.

 

 For soldering you need an iron (rather obviously) I would recommend a decent Antex one as they have the element in the shaft and so tend to have more heat in the tip for the same wattage. I like the TCS50 as it is a 50W iron (forget the temperature control thing, you don't need it. You are trying to put heat into the joint when you are soldering. The more heat in the bit the better. I am sure others will disagree on that point) but if you want one a bit cheaper the XS25 should be just fine with a selection of bits. One of the little tip cleaner things that comes n a tin is a good purchase too. For solder and flux have a look at the Carr's range on the C+L website.and read the descriptions to see what meets your needs depending on what you are intending to do. I like the 188 solder paste for general use. A glass fibre brush is good for cleaning parts both before and after soldering, i also use the finest grade of steel wool a lot for cleaning parts and materials but watch out if you're working on locos or with something else with a motor as the magnet in the motor and the debris from the steel wool are not a good mix. No doubt others will be able to tell you what I have forgotten.


 

[SIMBA1OFF]

Thanks for the encouragement and advice!

Will order an Antex iron tomorrow.

 

Thanks

[D869]

Antex XS25 for me, definitely with something to clean the bit on. I used to use the solder paste but for the past few years have mostly used fine lead/tin electronic solder and Carrs Green Flux (which needs to be cleaned up afterwards).

 

Make sure you choose a nickel silver kit for your first go (most kits are N/S these days anyway). It tarnishes less and (most importantly) has lower thermal conductivity so is much more forgiving. The downside of N/S is that paint doesn't stick too well, so you need etch primer if the metal bits are subject to handling, although if it's a wagon chassis kit with a plastic body on top you'll probably get away without this.

 

Your choice or prototype gives you the option of using a Ixion (Dapol??) Manor with one of Nigel Ashton's milled chassis. I've done one of these and can definitely recommend it, although like most (all?) 2FS steam locos the cost of the parts will certainly add up.

 

Regards, Andy

[SIMBA1OFF]

Hi Andy

Thanks for the advice!

I have a Dapol Manor is there a chassis for this model or can you use the Manor frames under it?

I also have a Dapol Collett 2-6-2 and looking at the pannier tank as well would these be easy conversions?

Thanks again

Mark

[D869]

For the Manor, Nigel Ashton does a milled brass chassis which replaces the existing chassis under the loco. Everything else from the loco is used - including the slidebars and the motor in the tender. Nigel does these in batches so you need to have a word with him if you want one. When I bought mine there was the option (for a fee) of having it pre-assembled up to the point of having the bearings fitted, so I went for that option. I wrote some words on my blog about this. Looks like I found the crosshead a bit tricky. I've also devised a different bogie pivot but otherwise it was very straightforward and runs very well.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/722/entry-11027-to-the-manor-born-part-2/

 

David Eveleigh does an etched kit for the small prairie. The Association shop does an etched kit for the Pannier chassis. I'd say that an etched chassis involves more work than a milled one (especially if it's already part assembled). I've got a part done prairie - you need to figure things out like the motor mount for yourself with this. Quite do-able... but more work than the Manor. With any tank engine, you've got more challenges with achieving reliable pickup and getting enough weight in - not an issue with the Manor. The pannier doesn't need any outside cylinders and conn rods which is good news in terms of avoiding complication.

 

To be honest though, if you've never done an etched kit then I'd start with some wagon chassis before attempting any of the above. Even the milled Manor chassis has some etches to assemble.

 

Regards, Andy

[SIMBA1OFF]

Thanks Andy, will take your advice and start with an etched wagon kit first.

 

L

[Graham Hughes]

To be honest though, if you've never done an etched kit then I'd start with some wagon chassis before attempting any of the above.

If you aren't experienced at soldering I would start by soldering together the bits from round the edge of the etched kit  first to get a feel for it before you start on the kit itself.

[DavidLong]

Thanks Andy, will take your advice and start with an etched wagon kit first.

 

L

May I add a couple more comments about soldering. In 2mm scale I rarely use a bit bigger than 1mm. This is ideal for getting into some of the small spaces on our kits and also helps to ensure that you don't use more solder than is required. Most of our kits are well designed for the scale and don't need much in the way of solder to hold them together. Like Andy I also use lead/tin resin cored solder and I often slice off small amounts rather trust just using whatever the bit picks up from the reel. I do use lots of flux, in my case Fluxite paste, which is more important than using lots of solder. I always make sure that the residue is removed immediately using a paint brush with lighter fuel before giving the job a good scrub at intervals with toothbrush (old!) and Cif.

Due to the small size of the bit I do use a bit of heat, usually around 300-350 degrees, using one of these:

http://www.circuitspecialists.eu/soldering/soldering-stations/csi-deluxe-60w-digital-soldering-iron-station-csi-station3dlf/

If you get really keen then you could invest in a Resistance Soldering Unit from London Road Models (down at the bottom of the page):

http://traders.scalefour.org/LondonRoadModels/various/components/

I wouldn't be without mine now and for doing any sorts of overlays they are the bee's knees.

Happy soldering!

 

David

[D869]

I suspect that lots of combinations of soldering iron, flux and solder will work just fine. The key ingredient is practice. I get on very well with my setup but on occasions when I need to use someone else's (probably much higher quality) iron I find that I'm in unfamiliar territory because it transfers heat to the work at a different rate, so everything happens at a different speed. There are lots of right answers. There are probably a few wrong ones too.

[Graham Hughes]

. I get on very well with my setup but on occasions when I need to use someone else's (probably much higher quality) iron 

I don't think you are going to get a better quality iron than the Antex one you mentioned above. I haven't found anything to beat Antex irons. I bought my TCS50 some time in the early '80s as the tiny 18Watt Antex I already had while fine for most modeling jobs in 2mm was a little too underpowered for some of the more robust work needed for making patterns for kits. It has had regular use ever since and still works perfectly. Yes there are more elaborate ones, fancy "soldering stations" resistance units and the like but I can't think of any job in 2mm modeling that the Antex iron is not perfectly suited for.

 

On the subject of solders, rosin cored electrical solder is great, if you are soldering electrical joints. It is not the best option for making models. Of course you can build models with it. I have done it myself when I didn't have anything else to hand but ideally you want something with better "wetting" properties which will flow into the joints and take less cleaning up afterwards. My choice is Carr's 188 which also has the advantage of a short melting range so it needs less heat and reduces the risk of other nearby joints coming apart. The electrical stuff, or its non cored equivalent, can be very useful if you need to fill gaps, for example if you are applying round wire for beading or filling the tongues on the corners of a flared tender top, but it is not the best choice for assembling kits. Why would it be? It was not formulated for that purpose. If all you have ever used is electrical solder then give the more "specialised" solders a try. I will guarantee you will be glad you did.

 

 

[MarkAustin]

On soldering irons, might I make a few points.

 

Don't assume that because 2,mm is a small scale, you need a small, low-powered iron. 25W is the absolute minimum, and I would go for 50+. The reason is they have a much bigger thermal mass, and don't go cold when you touch the work to be soldered. This makes the whole process that much quicker. Some years ago, I knew someone who built white metal kits with a 50W iron. No solder, just welded the parts together. Woudn't have the nerve myself.

 

Temperature controlled irons are useful, in particular if you want to "layer" parts using progressivly lower temperature solders. Keep an eye on Maplins, as their temperature-controlled irons are regularly discounted. However, beware, there are two types of temperature-controlled irons: the simple (cheaper) option just have a knob to controll the temperature, but you have to determine the settins yourself. The more comples (and expensive) option have a tip sensor, and you directly set the temperature.

 

Also, if you are using lead-based solder for modelling, and non-lead based for electrical wiring, you need tow irons, to avoid cross-contamination. The electrical ones don't need to be as complex as the modelling ones, but see my remarks on power.

 

Mark A

[SIMBA1OFF]

Again thanks to all the members for their kind advice and encouragment the responce has been fantastic.

 

Mark G