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Bad weather (ing) :)


RudyB

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Almost did not dare post my first weathering experiences between all the very professional weathering that is shown here! But then ... not every story is a success story :)

 

My first weathering attempts were not more than that ... an attempt. Oh well ... one has to start somewhere.

 

Link to some really bad weathering pictures:

 

On the positive ... I was able to get 48 shades of weathering powder on the cheap: eye shadow from the local supermarket for just €0,79 a box, 12 colors plus 2 foam appliers. But maybe that's one of the iussues ... probably not the right material. However ... it seems it can be used nicely to add some rust or dust spots here and there.

 

20308016yu.jpg

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As someone new to this as well, can I suggest that your effort isn't bad at all?

You've been quite subtle with the box van- perhaps too subtle, but it's easier to add than take away weathering.

 

If you want some examples of truly dreadful weathering- look on ebay. Aside from the few really professional examples, there are many that seem to think that the objective is to use as much weathering as is humanly possible.

 

In my experience (and I reiterate that I am only learning this the same as you) is that the trains of yesteryear were NOT the filthy machines often portrayed- dirty yes, but not filthy. I shall be watching your efforts and learning from you!

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The key to really amazing weathering results is experimentation. The old 'suck it and see'. I went through many years of art school. I'm now an expert, but only because I tried everything I could, just to see how it looked. And I think you're doing just fine.

 

When I'm weathering a carriage, I'll probably weather it all up - then clean it all off and start again - at least three times before I'm satisfied, and that's after 30 years experience!

 

So, Rudy, just keep going. Try other things, like dried metal polish. Indeed, use the metal polish to wear down transfers, so they look worn and faded, as well as polishing some of the paintwork, while leaving other parts looking dull. Contrast is often the key.

 

Judging by your first efforts, I'll expect you to be posting some interesting effects real soon. Don't expect to produce a masterpiece first try, but think about trying different things to get one effect. That rust coming through the paint might (on your example) would be a good start. Don't copy it: but see what different things you can use that looks like rust.

 

Have fun, and let us see the results (so I can steal any good ideas ;-)

 

Rick 

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I would agree with Rick on his comments.

I am trying to improve track weathering. Where two other people who started at the same time as me have almost finished their track building, I have only made about 30 small (3 inch) panels to experiment different painting techniques. My achievement thus far is far less than theirs, but I bet in the long run that won't be the case.

In this case it is track- but the principle is the same I think.

Derek

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Thx for your constuctive words Rick. I certainly plan to keep experimenting. On the other hand, I do not plan to invest in an air brush (yet), which will limit my possibilities some. I need the cash to invest in track and rolling stock first, otherwise there would not even be anything to weather! :)

 

I always enjoy to watch the images, videos, tutorials and explanations ... there are some real craftsmen and artists around. Curious about your work of course, are there any links?

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Hi Ruby,

You can get a reasonable airbrush for around £35 if you used the canned air. If you decide to go that route (in the future), I have a spare can-adapter and hose, that I could offer cheap (just pm me). But, in the meanwhile, you're wise to stick to one thing at a time.

 

One useful trick is to use aerosol spray varnish - use Humbrol satin - before you start, and between stages of your weathering. This will allow you to do easier 'roll backs', as the weathering powders can be washed off without leaving a stain.

 

I wouldn't bother with those expensive pre-prepared effect paints. You can replicate almost anything with stuff you get for free, plus some varnish and/glue to fix them in place. Also, when you're using a dry powder, be aware that as many effects are created by 'removing' as by applying. I apply black powder (dry) on a brush, then remove it with a damp (not wet) cottonbud. This gives the effect of grime streaking down the carriages as the rain (and condensation water) has carried locomotive soot.   

 

You'll soon be in the practice of examining every item you pick up, and thinking "what effect might this give". Only one item I would suggest you buy is liquid masking fluid. (Effectively, rubber solution.) You can use it to keep small areas free of your colouring with amazing results, used for things like paint chips and the like. Anyway, more pictures, please.

 

Rick

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