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Upgrading Hornby's (9F) 92220 'Evening Star' & (Britannia) 70021 'Morning Star'


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My project started out simply enough, as a kid, I'd always wanted a model of 92220 "Evening Star", but couldn't afford one. Now, a little older but no wiser, I've purchased Hornby's R2785 version of Evening Star and begun the process of detailing, weathering, and correcting the model. ...and then I saw the fabulous Hornby 'super detail' Britannia, and had to have one of those too.  

 

I'm not just interested in modelling the locomotives, I'd like to represent them with their correct coach formations: e.g. for Evening Star's runs on the famous Red Dragon and Capitals United Express passenger services, which she famously hauled on just three days, 27th & 28th June, and 1st July, 1960, before a British Railways management order forbade further such work. (See the WR Carriage Roof Destination Boards thread elsewhere on this forum, as well as 92220's entry in Wikipedia.)

 

My current task is to alter the front Bogie and buffer steps [on Evening Star]. I've removed the front tension-coupling, and added the realistic (non functional) detailing couplings and hose connector (note, only one hose at this date in 92220's history. Much of what you see at the National Railway Museum was added in presentation, and wasn't there in June-July of 1960). I now need to cut metal off the bogie, so it doesn't foul the pipe and couplings, as well as transferring the side-steps from the bogie into their proper place on the front buffer. -- I'll post pictures of this modification as work progresses. 

 

Anyone know a supplier of buffer steps? 

 

UPDATE (14 Jan 2015) the project evolves...

As this project has evolved, it has come to include a second of the BR Western Region's Canton-based crack passenger express locomotives, Britannia Pacific No.70021 Morning Star. This model is based upon Hornby's excellent 'super detail' tender-drive Britannia (R.2207).  I've also changed the name of the thread to reflect inclusion of 70021.

 

My depiction of 70021 Morning Star will depict her as seen in T. B. Owen's fantastic photograph, heading the up Red Dragon express, shortly before she was transferred from the Canton shed, on Saturday the 19th of April, 1958 (see T. B. Owen's picture of the event, below: 70022 Morning Star is seen taking on water at the Goring troughs).

 

Thanks,

Rick

 

 

PHOTOGRAPHS

  • 70021 Morning Star heading the up Red Dragon (T. B. Owen)
  • 92220 Evening Star heading the down Capitals United Express (unknown)

     

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Hi Marcus,

Beautiful model, but a little further than I'll bother taking the Hornby. My intention is to correct the glaringly obvious, add a few nice detailings, and apply an appropriate weathering job. This latter will be very light, as 92220 was Canton Shed based, and this shed had a proud reputation for polishing its passenger express locomotives; including Evening Star which always received special treatment, despite its mixed freight/passenger usage.

 

I've sent an email to East Kent Models but, sadly, I see the owners are selling up and retiring. Thanks, anyway, Mersey507003.

 

I'll try to get some pictures - progress so far - onto this thread tomorrow.

 

Rick

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I reckon there are three major improvements that are not too difficult but really pull the model up a notch.

 

Reducing the width over the cylinders to scale (36mm), by shortening the linking bar which mounts the cylinders on the chassis. Don't know if this compromises the model for set track curves.

 

Remove glazing entire, open out the undersize cab front windows, and then flush glaze the whole cab leaving the rear cabside windows unglazed.

 

Shortening the forward projection of the tender frame by circa 4mm, Hornby made it way over scale length. That brings loco and tender into the proper close coupled arrangement.

 

The very difficult job is the highly visible locomotive brake gear in the confined space between the drivers. Making this fine enough to look good, strong enough to last in regular use, and not apt to cause short circuits, is a real challenge in 4mm. The Bachmann model covers all these items (and more in the way of smaller detail) and is worth the greater cost for the brake gear alone in my opinion such is the difficulty of the DIY alternative, if this specific aspect is required.

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Ok, a Dapol kit has been ordered (ebay prices are slightly higher than hoped for) and will provide the steps and, hopefully, a correct set of windows. I may just use the glazing, with the necessity of reshaping what is quite a thick bit of window frame plastic, or cut the cab away and use that whole front section from the plastic kit. We'll see when it arrives.

 

Need more info on the cylinders. Yes, sounds a good idea. Can I use the Bachmann as a reference for correct dimensions?

 

Shortening the tender sounds simple enough. Again, is the Bachmann version correct?

 

Thanks, everyone, for your assistance. I've also now got valuable information on the catering pair - a GWR design Kitchen/Restaurant + Dining Saloon - that will require major surgery of a 60' Collett and a Mk1 BSK donor vehicle. The resulting 1cm shorter catering pair, of distinctive Collett design, should look very impressive amongst the Mk1s forming the rest of the rake. But that's a project for 2015. (If anyone has a spare set of Hornby/Bachmann Mk1 BSK sides, I'd be interested.)

 

Now it's time to get out the camera and show you where I'm at so far...

 

Rick

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...Need more info on the cylinders. Yes, sounds a good idea. Can I use the Bachmann as a reference for correct dimensions?

 

Shortening the tender sounds simple enough. Again, is the Bachmann version correct?...

You shouldn't really  - obtain accurate drawing etc. - but in respect of these two features it is a sufficiently reliable guide. On the tender frames, if you cut the whole piece with the tender steps off the front of the frames, with a little filing on the outside to narrow them the excess frame length can disappear behind the steps for a strong and invisible plastic cement bond.

 

(Where the Bachmann goes completely to cock is the loco to tender spacing on the preset holes in the drawbar. Presumably in order to clear the rigid moulded on intermediate buffer representations. Largely file the intermediate buffers away and make up a new drawbar for correct spacing, and it looks so much better as an ensemble.)

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Agree with all this. Separate smokebox door handles are a must and are dead cheap. Also AWS or as the Star was a western engine ATC(?) equipment are a nice add on too.

 

Some sections of the Dapol kit are surprisingly good and hold up well, including the cab. I recently built one as a 1970's imaginary BR blue Tyne Docker (there's a thread about it on here somewhere with pics) and with a little elbow grease I was pleased with the results.

 

Point being with a little ingenuity and some nips and tucks with a craft knife and superglue there's loads of scope for detailing on the Hornby. If I get round to it it's something I fancy doing myself later on.

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Still, very much, a standard Hornby interpretation of Evening Star...

 

The first picture shows I've added some bling. Seen in more detail in the following snapshots. That coal needs replacing, as it's far too fine for period BR coal. Also the copper chimney needs toning down with soot.  

 

Smokebox number, shed plate, vacuum pipe, and coupling have been added.

 

That nice metal coupling comes from a Hornby upgrade pack. The vacuum pipe was modified from another supplier, but needs replacing once I've cut back the bogie to give clearance. It should be supported, at the bottom, by a vertical bar which won't fit at the moment. Evening Star didn't have the second pipe (as seen at the National Railway Museum) in June of 1960.

 

Smokebox has brass 92220 and Canton 86C shed plate. The BUILT 1960 SWINDON oval works plates won't be fitted until Later. Also, some airbrush soot to be applied.

 

Nice brass Evening Star nameplate from ModelMaster, and the very fine detail etched brass commemorative plaque from Fox Transfers; who also supplied a very fine Capitals United Express nameboard and the F55 reporting number, on a magnetic bracket (neither to be fitted until airbrush weathering is complete).

 

That's it for now. I'm dividing my time between the 9F and a very nicely detailed Britannia class 70021 Morning Star, which is much more complete, as Hornby did a better job of getting the details right on the Britannia.

 

[. Pictures are dusty from the workshop. Also, I used flash for these snapshots, so the very nice brass colours show as silver. I'll take some proper pictures, in my studio, as the work progresses. ]

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Buffers are the Hornby sprung type that came with the model. Why do you ask?

 

Dapol plastic kit arrived today. Darn, it doesn't include any cab glazing. Also, the steps are a bit naff, so I'll probably re-sell on Ebay. Good idea, Raised on Steam. Was definitely worth a try. Oh well, should be easy enough to resell.

 

Speaking of buffers. I need to temporarily remove them so I can cut the front of the chassis to accept whatever steps I use in a secure manner. The back of the sprung buffers is right where I want to cut. Does anyone know if these things come apart? It looks like the 'retaining bulge' may be screw-fitted onto a fine thread at the back of the sprung buffer pin, but I'm not certain. Anyone?

 

Anyhow, I'll check out those other suppliers of steps that people recommended. Either that, or buy another Britannia detailing pack, remove the steps, and sell the other bits on the bay. Might even make a profit :-)

 

Rick

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That's a pity the kit didn't work out for you, although compared to the Comet detailing pack it just wouldn't measure up.

Some lamp irons would work on the Star too (maybe those number boards they used on the GWR).

For cab glazing I just cut up some packaging window plastic and glued that in. It has the right thin-ness. Don't get too much superglue near it though or it frosts up with the fumes.

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:yes:Yup, I've ordered the Comet detailing pack. Sounds really good.

 

I was hoping the Dapol had glazing, as it'd make cutting the correct window shape easier. Hmmm, I wonder if Bachmann would supply a glazing set as spare parts? Might drop them a line, if I can find the address.

 

On sourcing the steps. Annoying thing is that the Hornby's Britannia is supplied with a pair of the correct steps that can only be used if you're prepared to remove the front coupling. So loads of people must be sitting on them. The only others I've seen are too thick (not to scale) and would give me fitting problems. The original (bogie-fitted) steps aren't too bad. Might cut them off, tidy and correct them, and re-use. They'd fit quite well behind the buffer beam (or whatever it's called). But first problem is removing those sprung buffers. ...hopefully, someone will get back.

 

Thanks for the input,

Rick

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If there's one handy thing about Hornby 9F's it's that parts for them are usually quite abundant on Ebay. 

I'm modifying a Bachmann 9F just now and it's much scarier as parts for those are thinner on the ground and consequently go for bigger money so if I break anything I'll be stuffed. Whereas when (and if) I get round to working on my Railroad 9 I can chop and adjust away in wild abandon ha ha.

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Ok, post surgery report. I've trimmed the bogie to length. It looks much better. Also begun work on seeing whether the original steps are reusable. The answer is both, 'yes and no'. They're far better made than I'd realised. Just a bit 'chunky', in terms of thickness, and a bit narrower than those on the Britannia.

 

I took a cutting disk and removed metal to lose some of that excess weight. That worked well. Having gradually removed the excess thickness, the steps look good, albeit too narrow. A bit of luck here, was that there's a cut away recess that's only partial depth on the original. But, just at the point where I'd ground away enough metal to get the thickness right, I also broke through on that recess, so now have the correct oval cutaway right through the step.

 

The other problem is that the steps are too deep. But that's an easy fix by trimming them back to align with the top of the buffer.

 

I'll drop some 'before and after' pictures on here tomorrow. Meanwhile, I've got to find the trimmed bogie. It fell of my workbench, and now I can't find it! (Yes, I am an idiot.)

 

Not going to do any more tonight. Need to sleep on ways of widening those steps. There's several possibilities, but not something to be rushed.

 

I also need to add the prototypical supporting brackets, which triangulate the steps to the chassis, otherwise they'll drop of on the track, and I'll never see them again.

 

Night all,

Rick

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Comet detailing pack arrived this morning. ...Hmmm, this might be way over the top for a plastic Hornby.

 

Essentially, there's a lot of 'finishing' work needs doing on cast parts. Actually, some parts look too big for 4mm scale(?). Then all the pipework to make up from different types of copper wire. I'd also need to tackle the extremely fiddly task of removing all of the existing (plastic moulded) detail. And, in the end, is anyone going to notice the difference at this scale? All this metal 'bling' would look good, and be needed, on a precision-engineered scratch-built brass locomotive. I could imagine it all polished up. But, on my paint-weathered plastic depiction of Evening Star, it simply wouldn't be cost-effective. ...another item for the 'Returns' pile.
 
Bachmann are sending me the glazing. And Mersey's friends, at East Kent Models, put me onto a source of front buffer-beam steps in the X6589 Duke of Gloucester accessory pack. Both items are now on their way.

 

Meanwhile, work continues on the front bogie. The prototype was extremely lightweight - if such a thing can be said of a locomotive component - so I'd ideally remove a lot of the metal. But, in the model world, I am going to need some mass, as well as assistance from the spring Hornby fitted, to keep the bogie on the rails. I'll probably use a cutting wheel to scoop an arc out of the front-bottom of the bogie, not worrying about the top overhang, as this is hidden under the locomotive. You'll see what I mean when I post some pictures.

 

Raised on Steam mentioned he also has a 9F project. What is that about? Do tell more...

 

Rick

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I would have thought that adding the Comet parts would 'lift' your model into the next level so to speak. The difference between moulded on pipework and seperate relief, is one of the areas I normally attend to first. It makes one heck of a difference being able to see behind things!

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KalKat,

Got any pictures? I'd be interested to see the end result. My thinking is it'd just make the rest of the model look naff. Things like the smoke deflectors being too thick. And so it goes on until literally everything needs replacing. That said, I'd be happy to be shown otherwise. So a few pikkies please...

 

Rick

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