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Re-wheeling Spud


Catweasel

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When I fitted 12 mm wheels to my Spud, I found that, when set to the correct back to back, the new wheels rubbed on the body of the beast. This caused to run hot and erratically as you can imagine. The solution was to file down the sides of the unit. Any one else had this problem? I also had to change the pick ups due to lack of width as well as the bigger wheel and DCC conversion.

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When I fitted 12 mm wheels to my Spud, I found that, when set to the correct back to back, the new wheels rubbed on the body of the beast. This caused to run hot and erratically as you can imagine. The solution was to file down the sides of the unit. Any one else had this problem? I also had to change the pick ups due to lack of width as well as the bigger wheel and DCC conversion.

 

spud%20scan%201.JPG

 

Here is one of my as yet unused HO SPUDs. This has the original 10.5 mm wheels and two things do show up.

 

1. The insulating bushes for the wheels don't protrude inwards from the wheel backs.

2.  There are definitely widened sections of the body just beyond the edges of the 10.5 mm wheels.

 

You may have insulating bushes that do protrude, or your back to back is set closer that you think it is.

 

This happens to be a power bogie I'm in the middle of making a manufacturable replacement for, and that will take 12mm and 14 mm wheels. If you are not in too much of a hurry, watch out for my truck postings, over the next coupla months.

 

Andy

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This certainly sounds like a good project and I will be watching for your announcement. What gearing do you propose? I have thought along the lines of a double ended Mashima but I'm wary of height. That's where the Bullant comes unstuck.

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This certainly sounds like a good project and I will be watching for your announcement. What gearing do you propose? I have thought along the lines of a double ended Mashima but I'm wary of height. That's where the Bullant comes unstuck.

 

truck-electro-glide-1-500.jpg

 

This is just a poor intermediate stage picture showing where a temporary gearbox fits.

 

The low height gearbox will be 14:1, with a UJ or flex shaft to a central underfloor or low floor motor of the users choice. The gearbox top is less than .0240" above the axle centre. of whatever size wheels you use. It's pretty close to flush with the tops of 10.5 mm wheels.

 

The central motor can have an optional centre idler box of around 2:1, which allows the use of a greater single ended motor choice and double power bogies. The bogies are properly equalized, so the plan is to to have one geared axle in each bogie giving true symmetrical running in both directions and balanced tractive effort better than a single bogie with two driven axles, but at the cost of little more than just one bogie..

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