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Help needed on how to change a split gear on Heljan 37?


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Hi Earl,

I did an O gauge Hymek for a friend once, the bogie sides just pulled off, and the cover for the gears unclipped back and front. The changeover is straightforward, new for old, and then just clip it all back together.

It wasn't a driven axle that had split, just an intermediate.

I know it's a 37 and not a Hymek, but they may be the same.

Hopefully my memory serves me correctly, and it's some help.

 

Regards

Jinty ;-)

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Not sure about the 37 but I've just done one of my 35's, the bogie is removed completely, the motor released by slackening the clamp screw, and the plastic side frames are pulled off, the bottom plate removed, which releases the wheels,

 

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the bogie is then split, by undoing the screws on the sides, and the offending items removed and replaced. The whole thing is then re-assembled by reversing the procedure.

 

I didn't take a lot of photo's at the time but if you get really stuck I can take one apart and record it completely, but I think it's quite straightforward. Just remember to tuck all the wires back into the boge frame before you re-assemble it.

 

Not sure what replacements you have bought but I replaced both of the double gears on each bogie, adjacent to the motors, as a precaution even though only two had broken.

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Guest 40-something

I've just taken a bogie apart on my HJ 33, I had to undo the motor and track wires from the circuit board, take the screws off the bogie pivot retaining covers and carefully pulled the bogie and motor away from the chassis.  Pull the sideframes apart from the bogie.

 

There are 4 screws on the baseplate under the bogie, remove these to expose the gears and wheels.  There are also 4 screws holding each half of the bogie frame together, one on the motor clamp, one on the tower and 2 on the side, these will need to be slackened to allow the motor to be removed and the gears released.

 

I done this to remove the motor and gear set completely from the bogie as one powered bogie is enough for what Im using the loco for, free's up the motor for another project and gives a complete set of spare gears! 

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Stupid question. If a spare set of gears (any scale) are cleaned and stored grease free. Will that guarantee they won't split in storage.

As I understand it the problem is only with the two gears either side of the motor, and was due to an issue with the clearances on the nylon gear in relation to the splined metal shaft it's pushed onto. So I suspect if it's going to go it doesn't matter if it's in-situ or not. The replacement gears are allegedly to different tolerances, hopefully removing the problem,time alone will tell.

 

Tower said in a press release that the problem only related to 35's and 47's, so a 33 shouldn't be a problem, but given that this post relates to a 37 I'm not convinced, particularly as they also said it was only seen on 'rare occassions' and on loco's with a lot of running, mine went on an almost new one that had been stored most of it's life.

 

Quite why the problem would only be 'rare' when all the gears were presumably produced in the same factory is not explained, either the statement is wrong or the manufacturing tolerances weren't very good on the production line. - If it were just a rogue batch it's unlikely it would have affected so many types of loco.

 

I think there was perhaps a bit more 'spin' in the Press release than on the axles, I bet Heljan wouldn't tell you how many replacement gears they have supplied over the last 4 or 5 years? :nono:

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I was also struck by the fact this relates to a 37, rather than a Hymek or 47 where the problem was identified some while back. A clicking noise when the loco moves is a good sign of a problem for those who are wondering.

 

Having replaced a couple of these gears in locos a while back, I remembered quite recently that I'd meant to lay in a stock of a few replacements. These were duly ordered online from Howes and arrived very promptly. At £2.50 a pop it seems to me a small outlay relative to the cost of the locos concerned, which would be immobilised if at some time in the future the parts became unavailable.

 

As has been commented the Tower view was that this was a rare phenomenon. I have a lot of respect for the guys at Tower, and have been a very satisfied customer of theirs for some time, but I do wonder if anyone really knows how common the problem is? Many people will have bought O gauge locos, especially in Tower's excellent offers, and then kept them in the box or just given them a short run without a protracted test. Without doubt the Heljan locos in the senior scale are great value, compared to the cost and effort of building a kit, and one can only hope this issue does not recur in more recent models.

 

John.

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