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An idea for uncoupling RTR stock by hand. Now Mk3.


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On our Falcon Road club layout, we use the 'Brian Kirby' type magnetic uncoupling system together with Bachmann style small couplings.

 

They work just fine now that we have found the right type of magnets. See a post or two above.

These also allow us to fix them on the underside of our 6mm (also 9mm) baseboards. Meaning that they can be fitted as an after thought.

 

However, there are always times when you are not over a magnet or a member brings stock that hasn't been fitted with the required steel staple.

 

What was needed was a manual uncoupler that would work with any of the 'new' small UK couplings. Be it Hornby, Bachmann, Heljan etc., etc.

 

I've come up with this. Is it new?. I think so, but it's only useful whilst actually shunting. It's not so good if the train, in question, is just parked.

 

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Take two coffee stirers and glue them back-to-back.

Straighten out a medium size paper clip.

Drill a hole through the side of the stirer about 15mm from the end and pass the paper clip through.

Bend the legs through 90 degrees as per the above photo. Mine is bound with thread but tape will do.

The forked prongs area should be about 20mm long

At its narrow end the two prongs should have a gap of about 5mm between them.

At the widest end, the gap should be at least 12mm and a max of about 14mm

Also put a slight angle on the two prongs but keep them parallel to one another.

 

 

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To operate, push the prongs under the coupling loops with one prong each side of the two droppers.

 

 

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Pushing the uncoupler further in will bring the two couplings/wagons slightly together and the two hooks will rise.

 

 

 

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As your train pulls away, withdraw the uncoupler.

 

 

 

Dave

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Will it work without moving the other wagons?

Black Rat.

 

It might work like this but only for un-adulterated couplings. Not the Brian Kirby magnetic conversion.

 

The principal is that the droppers pass over the 'V' prongs and drop onto the horizontal 'plates' (black plastic in this instance)

The droppers are now 'behind' the 'V' prongs, so that when you withdraw the Uncoupler, the two droppers are forced apart, thus opening up a gap between the two coupling loops.

 

It needs refining, but I'm sure anyone interested will have a play with this.

 

An important note to manufacturers and dealers and anyone else who might think they can make money out of any or all of these three designs. Please bear in mind that I retain my 'Intellectual Property' in these uncoupler designs.

 

Lastly, please don't start a conversation on IP.

 

 

Dave

 

 

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Very interesting!

 

I'm a few days off now so will have a play. I use the usual 'lift up paddle' made from either brass or plasticard.

 

I am replacing all of my 3 links now with the small tension locks, 2 prolapsed discs in my neck has led to a bit of shaky hand syndrome.....which seems to kick in whilst uncoupling!!!!

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Very interesting!

 

I'm a few days off now so will have a play. I use the usual 'lift up paddle' made from either brass or plasticard.

 

I am replacing all of my 3 links now with the small tension locks, 2 prolapsed discs in my neck has led to a bit of shaky hand syndrome.....which seems to kick in whilst uncoupling!!!!

Have you thought about the Brian Kirby idea of magnetic uncoupling.

It works well but the drawbacks are fixed points for uncoupling and they only work on Bachmann hooks as they are brass not steel.

 

See how they work by searching in rmweb.

 

Good luck

 

Dave

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I have and tried it out, excellent idea.

 

Some of the early Bachhy coupling hooks ARE made of steel or iron ( or some other ferrous metal) and a lego magnet glued to the end of an empty pen tube sorts those out.

 

Prob is when you got a mix and match.

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