7mm and larger Modelling Down Under - Layouts & Modelling projects

[81A Oldoak]

Needing a way to actuate the signal now in the Stop position protecting the bridge on Moonan Flats I have come up with a way to manually actuate the signals via a lever frame, I also needed somewhere to mount these levers as well so a small addition to the front of the layout was made and installed.

 

I have recycled a pair of old Hornby levers.

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Parts for the shelf addition to mount the levers

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The painted shelf installed on the front corner

Now to mount the levers

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I have also been finishing off a LV van one more coupling to make, a transition auto/3 link then it's on to weathering.

 

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I like and remember well the Triang point levers. Serious collectors will be appalled by your desecration of these historical artefacts, but your adaptation is simple, neat and functional. I have got my eye on a batch for possible acquisition.

[SMR CHRIS]

I like and remember well the Triang point levers. Serious collectors will be appalled by your desecration of these historical artefacts, but your adaptation is simple, neat and functional. I have got my eye on a batch for possible acquisition.

Hi Chris

I'm sure there are a few that will have been cringing when they see mods to what I guess are now historic items

With only removing a small section on the inside and using a existing hole in the metal lever and the hole on the body for the top electrical pin, It's only a mater of removing the wire and it's back to usable as a passing contact switch lever if ever needed.

Perfect repurposing I think.

[SMR CHRIS]

Ok so I'm taking on. A big new project to rebuild a former exhibition layout by the Name of Newcastle originally built by Ron Fox of Fox model trains fame.

It was quite a layout to see at exhibition with over 7m worth of Station on display with 4-6-2 38 Class Pacific locos hauling express passenger trains etc

A couple of photos I was sent of the original layout on display at an exhibition

 

 

 

Newcastle is as you may expect a model of the real location of Newcastle NSW Australia.

Sadly now a Ghosts station with no tracks to be seen

 

 

A few years ago it's original Builder parted with the layout to start a new project and to turn a long story short I believe it went through several hand and the board for the layout ended up with one person the other parts with another and so on. By chance whilst speaking with Ron he mentioned that he had heard the person with the boards for the layout may be looking to move then on and I should contact him however I had no details for him, a few phone calls to people that may have had his details and one of these people I discovered had most of the original structures from the layout so a arangmet was struck to get these and the boards to rebuild the layout back to exhibition standard.

 

Initial info suggested everything was in tact with the main layout boards with a small amount of moisture damage from the location they were stored however this was not to be with a lot of the points and trackage ripped out of the layout and timber damage from storage etc

 

The building were mostly in tact but some vermin damage needs repair and brick paper replacing, etc

There are a lot of missing detail items like station lamps and name boards etc however I have the majority of the parts needed to start a rebuild it's going to need a couple of new sub boards constructing a new fiddle yard section as I only got half of it but with No trackage.

 

 

 

But the main thing is it's a project that is worth doing and once finished will result in a very impressive exhibition Model Railway once again

 

Below is a link to a video of the layout when exhibited

 

Edited August 11, 2017 by SMR CHRIS

[81A Oldoak]

I have visited Newcastle several times to see Lindsay O'Reilly and I am very familiar with the station. The truncation of the line in 2014 was a dreadful act. Has the campaign to protect the line and infrastructure been successful? Meanwhile, here some photos of 3801 at Newcastle that I shot in happier times a few years ago.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

[robertc]

Good luck with the project Chris, I remember it had some electrical problems the day I saw it at Ipswich preventing full operation. Ron's method of operation was effective if rather cumbersome if two operators weren't on hand.

Thankfully Ernie got some good video of it that weekend.

I am sure once restored it would be well received at the Our Town exhibition in Newcastle.

Do you plan to exhibit it using dc or DCC?

cheers

 Bob

[SMR CHRIS]

Hi Chris

Great set of photos of 3801

Re the line no it's all gone track removed remains of the other stations along the truncated section are being removed at the moment

Newcastle Station itself has plans for offices, markets etc being floated the developers in the area want to buldose the lot for the foreshore land grab, but heritage orders stand in there way thankfully.

 

Grass where once rai was

 

As for getting photos you can now stand wher the track once was to get photos etc that you couldn't get before the signal box taken from where the head shunt track once was

 

Looking across the former location of the level crossing to the signal box

 

[SMR CHRIS]

Good luck with the project Chris, I remember it had some electrical problems the day I saw it at Ipswich preventing full operation. Ron's method of operation was effective if rather cumbersome if two operators weren't on hand.

Thankfully Ernie got some good video of it that weekend.

I am sure once restored it would be well received at the Our Town exhibition in Newcastle.

Do you plan to exhibit it using dc or DCC?

cheers

 Bob

 

Hi Bob

 

I will set it up as DCC for main opperations as most of my locos are DCC fitted,

I will set it up as several power districts with circuit breakers that can be isolated and switched between DCC or DC.

With it set up like this you could have the main line platforms 1-2 set for DCC and platforms 3 or 4 plus yard set to DC for visiting locos also helps for not disrupting the entire railway if a short issue occurs it will only effect the one section and if someone else is running won't stop there opperation or trip the DCC system, really good for exhibitions situations.

 

As I have to do some major rebuilding with new sub boards etc mostly new track points etc I'm going to add the 4th track across the front of the signal box for the rail car siding and head shunt. This will also increase the operational ability of the layout

 

It would have been nice to be doing just a scenic revamp etc but it's a bit beyond that with the condition of the 2 station boards.

[robertc]

So, is that start with new baseboards in total?

If the boards are water damaged might be the best long term solution.

cheers

 Bob

[SMR CHRIS]

So, is that start with new baseboards in total?

If the boards are water damaged might be the best long term solution.

cheers

Bob

Hi Bob

Yes at least the platform boards will need replacing a fresh start with these.

The signal box - level crossing board is ok so may be able to keep that one and as it needs track work I and add the extra line in to have the 4 lines on the station approach across the crossing.

Edited August 12, 2017 by SMR CHRIS

[robertc]

Well, that should keep you out of trouble for while :>)

Far better to start afresh sometimes.

Electrically it is no trouble to accommodate dc and DCC on the one layout.

Just need to ensure the two feeds can't be bridged accidentally or expensive smoke may ensue.

I placed a post in the middle of a crossover to prevent stock crossing between systems when a former club layout was using both systems at once.

 

cheers

 Bob

Edited August 13, 2017 by robertc

[SMR CHRIS]

Well, that should keep you out of trouble for while :>)

Far better to start afresh sometimes.

Electrically it is no trouble to accommodate dc and DCC on the one layout.

Just need to ensure the two feeds can't be bridged accidentally or expensive smoke may ensue.

I placed a post in the middle of a crossover to prevent stock crossing between systems when a former club layout was using both systems at once.

 

cheers

 Bob

Yes Bob it will keep me busy for a little while hopefully not too long as the hard bits (the large structures) are done.

The base boards and track are the easiest bits to do it all the little details that really take the time

As far as having one part DC and the other DCC I plan to have the point control on the parts between the two sections interlocked so can't be changed whilst separate controls being used the most basic way will be to use 4PDT switches from Jaycar for the switching of the DCC/DC to that section it will also allow for the crossing points to be set to prohibit access to the section using the other set of poles.

It's not likely to occur too often but I'd like the option so it's possible to test a DC loco etc or for friends visiting DC locos to be able to be run without having to do to much other than switch the section over.

I did see an article once with a electronic module that automatically switches sections for DC/DCC opperation but may be a big pricy I'll have to look into it

The switch is a cheap and easy option though.

[SMR CHRIS]

Finally got to doing some scenic's around the signal

 

The base was painted with the same burnt umber paint that I used when the initial layout scenic's were done 2 coats then when dry I brushed on some quick set PVA and added the Ballast and ash Surface.

Signal base scenic's applied

 

 

Then the same was done with the area around the signal

 

Scenic's around the location of the signal base added and some random grass tufts around

 

 

Whilst I had the box of scenic's out I decided to add some random tufts around this area as it looked a little uniform down between the tracks

 

Also in this photo is a MAL 12 wheel sleeper car it is 1 of 5 cars I was given, it is believed to have been Scratch built from timber and balsa in the 1950's

 

Scenic's around the location of the signal base added and some random grass tufts around

[robertc]

The MAL seems to be well made.... a good pickup.

New decals and some weathering on the roof should transform it.

Lettering was always the curse for me years ago, my shaky hands did not help :>)

cheers

 Bob

[hartleymartin]

I've tended to paint my NSWGR goods stock in a non-descrept grey colour - usually by mixing humbrol matt black with humbrol matt white and throwing in a dash of humbrol brown. The first models I built were all brush-painted. I now tend to use a Tamiya spray primer then spray various dark greys. Tamiya "Rubber Black" spray seems to be a pretty good approximation of the old "Weathered Black"

[robertc]

When those models were made it was a rare individual who had access to a spray gun Martin. Even bogies were often little more than rough bronze castings that had to be cleaned up and soldered or screwed together. Those who dared to venture into the world of 2-rail were very brave indeed.

In the 1950's it was a well deserved source of pride to be able to show your Australian O gauge models. Just getting plans was a hassle.

 

I have never had any success with roofs except by spraying the final layer of soot.. Ground pastel might be successful in replicating the typical sooty look . Trying to brush paint it never worked for me. One of the first jobs was to spray my roofs with soot once I had my first airbrush.

 

 

Does your existing layout have to go to have Newcastle Chris ?

regards

 Bob

[SMR CHRIS]

When those models were made it was a rare individual who had access to a spray gun Martin. Even bogies were often little more than rough bronze castings that had to be cleaned up and soldered or screwed together. Those who dared to venture into the world of 2-rail were very brave indeed.

In the 1950's it was a well deserved source of pride to be able to show your Australian O gauge models. Just getting plans was a hassle.

 

I have never had any success with roofs except by spraying the final layer of soot.. Ground pastel might be successful in replicating the typical sooty look . Trying to brush paint it never worked for me. One of the first jobs was to spray my roofs with soot once I had my first airbrush.

 

 

Does your existing layout have to go to have Newcastle Chris ?

regards

 Bob

Hi Bob you are right re the cars they have the cast brass or bronze bogies with 3 rail wheels

 

Re painting with an air brush your spot on, even in 1970-80 airbrushing was considered a luxury most of my dads locos built in the late 70's early 80's were all hand painted but your hard pressed to tell even his GWR metro tank that won the AMRA trophy was hand painted.

 

The existing layout doesn't have to go but if it is wanted by someone it can go to a new home.

Moonan Flats being modular and portable can be put to one side and stored, I have a few people who keep saying they want it as well.

I keep telling them to make an offer when they really want it in their garage, the first one that dose will have it, and the others will be disappointed LOL.

I have to say I run trains most days even if it's only for a few minuts, since building Moonan flats I find it very therapeutic to just shunt a few trains around then swap locos/stock around for the next operation. Who would think you can enjoy a layout with only 2 points.so much.

 

I think Shelley prefers Moonan Flats being set up, as it is the smallest of the 5 layouts that I have. Although the Rio Grande HOn3 is smaller is base board area to Moonan Flats, it takes up more space as it's an L shape but narrow shelf style base boards.

 

Re Newcastle rebuilding I have a large table that I work at and will set each module up on that to work on, as I can then sit on a stool to do the work plus turn each it on its side to do the work under the boards electric's point motors etc (I don't do under layout so good any more working upside down) and when I need to do over join work etc I can set up in the place of Moonan Flats

[SMR CHRIS]

I've tended to paint my NSWGR goods stock in a non-descrept grey colour - usually by mixing humbrol matt black with humbrol matt white and throwing in a dash of humbrol brown. The first models I built were all brush-painted. I now tend to use a Tamiya spray primer then spray various dark greys. Tamiya "Rubber Black" spray seems to be a pretty good approximation of the old "Weathered Black"

 

Hi Marty as Bob noted these cars are very old Belived to be 1950's era and are all hand painted, back then Modern bench top spray gear wasnt available to the masses. Now we are lucky enough to be able to pick up a set at Aldi when doing the weekly grocery shop LOL there were 3 sets left at my local Aldi this week.

 

Plus spray cans like we can get now were but a Dream back then.

 

Whilst they don't stand up against the modern kits they look the part from a viewing distance and with some tidying up buffers installing etc will look ok Going to use the Big River Models screw on Buffer beams and some of the corridor pars etc

[hartleymartin]

Most of my early models were all goods vehicles. I am reliably informed that most of the prototype were painted with an old broom back in the day! Locomotives and coaches were given a much finer treatment.

[SMR CHRIS]

Most of my early models were all goods vehicles. I am reliably informed that most of the prototype were painted with an old broom back in the day! Locomotives and coaches were given a much finer treatment.

I'm guessing an old broom was a bit of a painters term for a broad brush Marty as from all the literature the painter's really took pride in there work and this is reflected in the workshop photos even the humblest S truck when it left the paint shop was shiny Black.

 

On one of the face book pages recently there was a photo of a freshly out shopped K truck shiny jet black it looked out of place in the train of dusty dirty wagons all looking like the colour every one calls gun metal, but that was because it was so shiny

Looking at the work shop photos it also dose look like the paint shops have several shades of Black to Gray colours for Freight wagons, one photo shows a New LLV Bogie louvred van in a Gray colour and it looks like it has a slight metallic fleck may have been to aid with heat over the full black black or was it Just for the work shop photo so the detail of the louvres where visible as there is also a photo of the same type of LLV in full black being out shopped.

 

Original Paint colours is one of the biggest talking point amongst NSWGR people.

 

Now when they uncover paint during a restoration, at the Museum it is spectrum scanned and some of the colours are very different to what is generally guessed at.

[SMR CHRIS]

Scenic's around the Signal matched and Signal placed back in position.

I need to find a suitable brass ladder I did have a set but can't find that safe spot that are stored.

 

I Picked up some suitable springs for the return mechanism for the manual opperation of the signals from the lever frame, yesterday whilst at Aquip in Gunnadah NSW one of the biggest Rural trade show it's A great place to get tools and parts like bolts springs steal rules etc, at county prices not over inflated city prices and in bulk not the single item you get in the city shops.

 

So the next thing to do is use some of the items picked up to get the signal mechanism operational from the levers that were repurposed a couple of posts ago.

 

Photo with CPH RM11 having been given the right o way

In the back platform is another of the 1950's scratch built passenger cars. A BS first class compartment car.

 

Edited August 23, 2017 by SMR CHRIS

[robertc]

I too have several of those safe places. They are well hidden here too :>)

If you had visited the Pioneer Tank stand you would have run into Rohan.

cheers

Bob

[SMR CHRIS]

I too have several of those safe places. They are well hidden here too :>)

If you had visited the Pioneer Tank stand you would have run into Rohan.

cheers

Bob

Unfortunately I walked right past it as didn't need a tank.

He was probably run off his feet lots of people this year and a lot more traders there as well, the last 2 years it was a bit lacking on the big stuff, I'm guessing the majority of the farming industry up that way must be doing well this season.

Edited August 24, 2017 by SMR CHRIS

[SMR CHRIS]

We have working signals at Moonan Flats

I got a bit of time to play signals tonight, the bit I wasn't looking forward too, the under board part lucky the layout is quite high and I could sit on a low stool to install a bracket for the return springs and a couple of eyelets for the wire guide

Mounted the 2 levers previously posted about on the little shelf that I add to the front of the layout,

connect the link from the lever to the signal actuators and added the return springs to a bracket that I bent up, Then tested, amazingly it worked first go the lever throw is just right for the signal action.

 

Link to YouTube video of the working signal.

 

 

Link to Facebook page with Video if you use FB

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/PLATFORM1MRC/permalink/1442538742468420/

[robertc]

Getting very flash Chris :>)

cheers

Bob

[SMR CHRIS]

Getting very flash Chris :>)

cheers

Bob

Hi Bob

I recon flash would be if they were motorised, but that's just like hard work servos or motors wires back and forth, when a manual lever will do the same thing reliably. good old mechanical opperation just like in the real world on a country branch no electric's out there.