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The ex-MSWJR 4-4-0... 'EM' & Compensated, With DCC Sound!

scanman

Entry posted by scanman

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A few days ago, I posted a query as to whether anyone else had constructed the 'Albion' kit for the GWR re-build of the MSWJR 4-4-0. The silence was deafening (and perhaps now I see why!) The kit is now marketted by 'Roxey Mouldings' but (from the date on the etches) started life in 1986. Which probably explains a few things in the 'etched kit technology' department, as we shall see...

 

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The cat wonders 'Wots in the box?' (& knowing my cat - 'can I eat it?'). Opened up it reveals:-

 

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Several etched sheets covering the loco & tender chassis & the tender body, with whitemetal for the loco body & detailing parts. As usual, motor, gear-box & wheels are extra. My kit also contains a set of sprung buffers. As I bought the kit in 1995, I cannot remember whether or not they were included! For the technically-minded, the etches are in brass (20-thou for the chassi, 15 thou (I think) for the rest. One nice touch is the inclusion of the 'absrbed' number- and works plates for all the locos. The instructions give a run-down of the class after it entered GW service and reference details for further sources. However, agin the '1980's approach' comes through - there is no exploded drawing (the only line drawing of the class is the one on the box-lid!) and the detail drawings are pretty limited too. I think the kit originated with Rod Neep (of Perseverance chassis fame) and the compensation uses that system - but it's not well-detailed. The etches are carefully packaged...

 

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Too carefully! After 26 years or so, the Cellotape was very difficult to remove, and left a form of oxide residue

 

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which has to be removed! Surgical spirit? Nah. It laughed off cellulose thinners too - and 'Cillit Bang'! It only sucumbed to 'Hob-Brite' (a cream cleaner) and loadsa scubbing with the (ex-) toothbrush.

 

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At last - down to the workshop - only to find I'd cleaned the wrong etch... Back toi the kitchen sink, and finally I was ready to start work. Once again the '1908's came to the fore. The horn-block inserts have to be removed. In modern kits these are 'tacked'' in place with broken-etch lines. These are half-etch, and a s-d to remove accuratley, as the horn-block guides have to be soldered into place behind, then opened out for the hon-blocks themselves. Accuracy of wheel centres may be an issue... Probably the easiest item was the fixed guide - however there is no indication as to which way round it should be fitted. I fitted it with the bush outside. Bet it's wrong!

 

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So two hours after finally sitting down, this is where I'm at. Think it's going to be a while befre we hear 'choo choo'!

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Mikkel
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Oh, this is good stuff (rubs hands in anticipation of someone else's work effort!).

 

This is such an interesting prototype, and it's interesting to hear your thoughts about then changes in kit design philosophy. When I browse the ranges I often forget how crucial the original design date is for the feasibility of the kit. To me the 1980s does not seem that long ago, but it is!

 

I look forward to following this. Will be expecting "choo choo" shortly B) .

 

 

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Mike G

Just wondering how you're going to stop the bearings rotating in the hornblocks, they look like the very old Rod Neep design.

 

Mike

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buffalo

Always interesting to see what people make of older kits and whether they feel the need to change or enhance what comes in the box. I'm in the middle of building an old Craftsman kit which certainly needs a bit of extra work. I'll be watching this one with interest.

 

Nick

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Kenton

To remove old Selotape residue from brass (another one of those why do they do that!!? screams) Acetone is the best solvent, but you will still need to clean up the usual oxidation.

 

This looks an interesting build - I've seen worse and older kits

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scanman

Oh, this is good stuff (rubs hands in anticipation of someone else's work effort!).

 

This is such an interesting prototype, and it's interesting to hear your thoughts about then changes in kit design philosophy. When I browse the ranges I often forget how crucial the original design date is for the feasibility of the kit. To me the 1980s does not seem that long ago, but it is!

 

I look forward to following this. Will be expecting "choo choo" shortly B) .

 

 

 

 

Cheers Mikkel -

 

The '80's seem like yesterday to me (old-timers disease strikes) and with regard to 'choo choo - but dont hold yer breath!

 

Regs

 

Ian

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scanman

Just wondering how you're going to stop the bearings rotating in the hornblocks, they look like the very old Rod Neep design.

 

Mike

 

 

They are - MkII I think - round, rather than square which would hold in the hornblock to stop rotation. Light control wires soldered to the frame & bearing I think will be the answer - cannot be too strong or they'll overpower the compensation.

 

Regs

 

Ian

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scanman

Thanks to all for the positive comments! I'll try not to let you down. Next 'work session' should be Sunday or Monday. Might get the other side of the tender chassis done. I've got to work out how to get the axles perpendicular to the frames, bearing in mind the potential inaccuracy in the hornblock guides.

 

Thinking along the lines of fixing the spacers to one side, inserting extended 2mm rod through each bearing which will rest on ally angle notched at the correct centres. Clip the remaining hornblocks in place & tack solder everything...

 

Will spend tommorrow at work (on overtime) thinking about it!!!

 

Regs

 

Ian

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scanman

Thought about it! See the RSU section of the blog. Procedure:-

 

a. Build the soldering station.

 

b. Prep the remaining frame (removing hornblock blanks)

 

c. Prep the spacers.

 

d. Tin the parts

 

e. Asemble frames & spacers on soldering station...

 

f. ZAP 'em!

 

g. Insert hornblock guides using the jig described above, and tack solder using the trusty 'RS' tem-controlled unit. Once in place, solder-in permanently.

 

That should be enough for the morning!:lol:

 

Regs

 

Ian

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