Hornby Class 56 Buffers - Replacement O-Rings?

[richierich]

Has anyone else experienced the o-ring which holds the buffer shank in place perishing, causing the buffer & spring to come out of the body?

 

Has anyone come up with source to obtain replacements?

 

I've checked out most suppliers for Hornby spares and Class 56 buffers seem to be out of stock :-s

[Beacon]

Mine haven't perished but I did manage to lose them when removing the buffers for a respray

 

Likewise I haven't managed to source any replacements although East Kent Models did tell me to keep trying every so often.

 

I haven't as yet managed to come up with any clever alternative either although there surely must be one!?

[Scottish Modeller]

Mine haven't perished but I did manage to lose them when removing the buffers for a respray

 

Likewise I haven't managed to source any replacements although East Kent Models did tell me to keep trying every so often.

 

I haven't as yet managed to come up with any clever alternative either although there surely must be one!?

 

 

Hi all,

 

Time to visit your local fishing tackle shop......

 

You are looking for small O-Rings as used on fishing floats.

 

Measure the buffer shank isze and be sure to take the note with you!

 

Yes - you will have a bit of work to make them fit - but it can be done.

 

Thanks

[richierich]

Its an interesting point which triggered a thought!

 

I've checked out the standard BS sizes for O-rings, smallest is 1.15 i.d. x 1 (mm). Annoying thing is I've not got my vernier here to measure the shank to see if they might work!

 

Another thought I had was some very small 'E' clips (like Tamiya use in R/C Car kits), but whether their available in such a small size? - Back to Googling . . . . .

[D400]

All Hornby buffers use the same O-rings so although an expensive option you could buy either Class 50 or Class 31 buffers and simply pinch the O-Rings (though be careful - very easy to loose!!)

 

Bruce

[(The) Youth]

Squish end in pliers, then push back in

 

Simon

 

 

[richierich]

Diameter is 1.1mm with 0.9mm in the recess for the o-ring. Just a matter of finding a supplier now . . . . .

 

With the buffers being die cast mazak metal, crimping the end isn't a good idea, because the alloy is quite brittle.

[Guest baldrick25]

This Ebay seller claims that they sell a set starting at 0.8mm to 20mm.

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NBR-O-RING-SET-0-8MM-20-1MM-/250716817900?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item3a5fe309ec

 

Maybe contact the seller and see if they just the 0.8mm or can help with something not currently advertised that meets the spec.

[class"66"]

Squish end in pliers, then push back in

 

Simon

 

 

Agree, this is how ive been sorting mine out too.........

[martin_l_jones]

I have had loads of problems with Buffers on 56's and 60's.

 

Registered a complaint with Hornby in Novemeber 2009 after buying a brand new loco took it out of the box and two fell out !!

 

In the end they said to send the loco back and they fitted three buffers from a returned item they had in stock into mine, funnily they wouldn't send them out in the post for me to fit, it would have saved a lot of postage ?

[Guest 47107]

Could you not use these ?

 

http://www.kato-unitrack.co.uk/a1-models-a83-oval-loco-sprung-buffers-ready-built-2555-0.html

 

Better looking, and probably better made.

[Sultan]

 

I,ve had two or three fall out and my DIY solution has been to use very small diameter electrical cable (black if fussy) cut into small lengths about 2mm and strip out the wire core to make a sleeve out of the insulation for the buffer shank collar.

The outside diameter of the cable should fit into the recess at the back of the buffer to ensure movement.

Test for fit inside buffer housing and a tight fit over shank before fitting,you might get lucky first time or have to try a few different sizes once you are happy you can cut loads from the same peice of wire

Tweezers are a good tool to help when assembling,or tack the end of the collar to the end of a small screwdriver with superglue,position down in that akward place betwen wheel and frame and then push the buffer home and into the collar(not forgetting to put the spring in).

If the sleeve is a bit loose on the buffer then rig up somthing to hold the buffer in , maybe an elastic band and apply a small blob of super glue using a cocktail stick as an aplicator.

 

Hope the DIY helps

 

Sultan

 

 

 

 

[unravelled]

I don't know the accessibility or proximity of vulnerable items, but would heat shrink tubing be a possibility, if it comes in a suitable size.

 

Dave

[richierich]

Yes, A1 ovals look like the better replacement.

 

However found a source of O-rings - watchmaker supplies!

 

http://www.rnhorological.co.uk/gaskets.htm

 

Thanks,

 

Rich

[richierich]

I found a solution to this problem. It's to use very fine copper wire from an old solenoid coil. Carefully wrap this around the end of the shank to replace the o-ring. Then a dab of super glue to secure.

 

This works well on Class 31 sprung buffers as well to reduce the travel to something more prototypical.