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Intercity 125's workbench - Modifying Bachmann 37 mechanism for a Hornby 47


What livery for the 101 on page 4?  

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  1. 1. Pick a livery!

    • Regional Railways
    • Blue
    • Blue Grey (black bufferbeam)
    • Blue Grey with NSE logos
    • Blue Grey (red bufferbeam)


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Hi, I am detailing most of my stock, but i am new to detailing stuff, so please correct me when I go wrong. Most of it will be to make it look better, and won't be 100% prototypical, but it'll look better than the original huge tension-lock couplings that were there before. Most of my stock are older Hornby or Lima, with a couple of newer Bachmann and on newer Hornby. At the moment I am working on some new bogies and couplings for my Lima MK2bs. I have bolted on new Bachmann B4 bogies, and am thinking about Keen couplings as they will pretty much be in a fixed rake. If anybody has other suggestions for close coupling then please let me know. I am also fitting most of my stock with NEM couplings. I don't think they are the right height, but work with the cranked couplings I used, and as I am unlikely to change from tension locks, it doesn't really matter. Pictures soon!

 

Just remembered that I am trying to make a Network Rail ultrasonic test coach 999606. So far, it hasn't gone well. May be updated/binned over the next few weeks. Then again, maybe not. Just found some pictures of my Hymek weathered with watercolours! Also my cl47 with NEM pockets at about the correct height.

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Today saw me getting so frustrated at the test coach, I scrapped it and am going to turn it into an RBR (Restaurant Buffet (Refurbished)) to run with my InterCity blue/grey MK2bs. I have also added some pipes to my MK2a BSK. The tail lamp was already fitted earlier by doing this:

 

I recently made a flashing tail light which could also be non-flashing. I already had some tail lamps and a Hornby MK2 BSK. I also had a bike light that had come free with my dad's Mountain Bike Rider magazine. So, first step: find someone who reads a bike magazine and has a surplus of bike lights. Then remove any casing so you just have the circuit and the LED. Then get one of those Christmas present decorations with the fibre optic strands and cut one off. To make a hole in the coach, I used a sewing needle and a hammer and bashed the needle through. This is probably not the recommended way to do this, but it worked. I then did the same with the tail lamp (from the non-lense side). Unfortunately I can't remember the make of lamp. Be careful not to lose the lense when you make the hole. I held mine in Blue-tack so I didn't lose the lense. Then stick the fibre optic into the hole in the lamp and superglue it in. Do the same with the coach. Then, I blocked out the windows in the brake compartment with Duct Tape to prevent light bleed. It doesn't notice unless you look too closely. I then attached the LED bike light to the fibre optic tube with superglue and then, once dry, covered it in Duct Tape to prevent more light bleed. I then Blue-Tacked (I know, again! ) it to the side of the coach so I didn't damage the fibre optic tube. I also had to cut away part of the partition at the end of the coach so as not to bend the fibre optic. Luckily for me the clip that holds the bodyshell in place was broken, allowing easy access to the inside. The broken clip was disguised with a piece of black card Blue-Tacked on the end. This I found worked well and I am definitely pleased with the results. Pictures: http://www.flickr.com/photos/firstbusphotos/11885063355/in/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/firstbusphotos/11885059855/in/photostream/

 

Also attempted to make my own sprung buffers on my cl47. It would have worked if the rod the buffer was on was longer. I would've replaced them anyway with A1 models sprung Oleo buffers, but it was worth a try. I also managed to drop it on the floor soon afterwards, and managed to explode the tube the buffer goes in (anyone know what it's called?) as it landed on the buffer and forced the wider part of the buffer up into the tube. The impact also snapped one of the bogie retaining clips on the motorbogie, and has been superglued back together, although not re-attached to the chassis. Once I've sorted the buffers, the headcodes, the motor and the glazing, it will be a great loco. :) Sorry about the huge block of text ( :( ), my next post will hopefully be more pictures.

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Hi everyone. I have been chopping headcodes tonight. My class 47 project has had the old headcodes removed and one has been replaced with a piece of plastic. Soon I will drill holes for the LED lights. Here are some pictures. I didn't get a pic of the MK2a with pipes, but will tomorrow. I have also lost my camera, so apologies for poor quality pics as they are from my phone.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi, sorry about lack of updates. I have ordered a Craftsman Class 47 detailing kit for my 47, which will probably be resprayed into BR Blue which is the right colour and isn't shiny. It will probably become 47401 Great Eastern as then I can run it on my modern image preserved layout (see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/82947-ashbridge/). Can anyone recommend paints for BR Blue and warning panel yellow? Thanks. I will post some pictures soon.

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Hi there, the Craftsman kit came today, so have started fitting it. The pipework will have to wait as I've lost my 1mm drill bit. Well, I say mine... :no: They are very high quality IMHO. The windscreen wipers are what I'm dreading; 4mm x 1mm bits of brass. :O

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Last picture is upside down, any ideas???

 

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Well, I'm p*ssed off ATM. Upon trying to move the wheels on my 47, I found they wouldn't. Whatever's the matter I thought, probably just some dirt or something jamming it. Well, something was jamming it. It was bits of one of the carbon brushes. It had disintergrated and was in 3 pieces. Gives me an excuse to replace it with a CD Drive motor which I've been meaning to do for a while!post-21426-0-39788200-1394910683_thumb.jpg

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Does anyone have any suggestions what flush glazing to get. I thought about laser cutting it myself :O

SE Finecast may have a Hymek flushglaze kit.

Part No.: SE19 Hornby Hymek, SE11 Hornby Class 47, SE16 Hornby HST

 

 

Cutting your own from clear plasticard is also great.

 

EDIT; Added item codes

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