RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted January 3, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2018 The very first photo, of the Chapelon Nord pacific, already has me weak at the knees... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted January 3, 2018 Author Share Posted January 3, 2018 RMWeb's French contemporary reports a project by "Chouchou Loco" to model the Simplon Orient Express from Calais to Istanbul and Athens circa 1950, ... The whole thing (31 pages so far, so not yet rivalling CA), is at http://forum.e-train.fr/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=82796 Well, they are rather better at staying on topic! A great read, thanks for the link. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 3, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2018 I just wonder how big the layout will need to be to allow all the different locos to take a turn. Interesting project though. Don 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted January 3, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2018 Next thing we know, there’ll be a kreigslok coming through West Norfolk. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted January 3, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2018 Next thing we know, there’ll be a kreigslok coming through West Norfolk. No, something more Gallic I'd hope. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 (edited) Borrowed a little time last night, ahead of the weekend. I can see the blades turning out (no pun intended) to be the trickiest part, though I have yet to decide exactly how to operate them. Don W has kindly outlined some tie/stretcher bar options for me to consider. EDIT: Tried to include a clearer picture. I think the blades are a tad too long. The planing is, frankly, not a precision job. Might need several goes at this! Edited January 5, 2018 by Edwardian 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted January 5, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2018 As discussed on my thread, I take my hat off to you for having the confidence to hand-build your track. They really do look great and so much better than ready-to-use ones. Well done that man and can't wait to see one of your Edwardian loco's trundling over the newly laid track through the wonderful buildings you have built! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 (edited) As discussed on my thread, I take my hat off to you for having the confidence to hand-build your track. They really do look great and so much better than ready-to-use ones. Well done that man and can't wait to see one of your Edwardian loco's trundling over the newly laid track through the wonderful buildings you have built! Thank you, Ian. It will be good if it ever works, which is about as much as I can say about CA's track at present! On the other hand, I would urge anyone who has not yet visited your Jencaster to do so, for a dash of 1930s LMS in Midland territory, on what I feel is a very successful model railway built to a fine and consistent standard that works very well visually. EDIT: I should add that Ian's structure modelling in particular is really first rate. Forgive me if I indulge here in a little private celebration of Jencaster, especially as it's not pre-Grouping(!), but when Castle Aching looks as good as this, I shall be content: Edited January 5, 2018 by Edwardian 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 5, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2018 Good work on the turnout. If the blades are a fraction too long trim a bit off with a razor saw at the crossing end. I would use curved forceps to hold the rail while doing so to avoid damaging any chairs the rail should then slide up through the chairs to the correct length. Using the file along the blade help to keep the planning at a steady angle. File across the rail in it easy to add humps and dips. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted January 5, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2018 I fear you have over-sold my abilities and efforts Edwardian!!! but I will take the kudos and praise and enjoy every minute of it. I now need to up my game to match your skill in buildings and track construction though!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 Have you got a pair of Xuron rail cutters? They save a lot of razor-sawing, and with a bit of practice give a very clean cut. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 I think the blades are a tad too long. The planing is, frankly, not a precision job. Might need several goes at this! I couldn't make out the tips of the switches, but as long as the gauge between the tip of a closed switch and the opposite stock rail is not tight, there shouldn't be a problem. This is probably less of an issue in OO than in finescale track. It's more important that things run through it smoothly rather than whether it is 'technically' right! Nice work. Jim 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 I fear you have over-sold my abilities and efforts Edwardian!!! but I will take the kudos and praise and enjoy every minute of it. I now need to up my game to match your skill in buildings and track construction though!! Then I will say no more, but let your pictures sell the layout instead! Have you got a pair of Xuron rail cutters? They save a lot of razor-sawing, and with a bit of practice give a very clean cut. No, and I regret being penny-pinching enough not to invest. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adams442T Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 Xuron rail cutters are, for me, a must. The amount of time they save alone makes them a worthwhile investment. No more slicing scenery, no more "bu&&rit, didn't mean to cut it there!", and no more saw cuts, which take a hell of a time to heal, either! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 5, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2018 I do have some Xuron rail cutters although they are not man enough for 7mm and 16mm rails IMO so I use a razor saw for 7mm and if no one is looking a junior hacksaw for code 200 16mm rail. When cutting rail in situ it is sometimes easier to use a razor saw. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted January 5, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 5, 2018 The Xuron cutters will leave one side of the cut rail as a V-shape, needing filing square, so very good for preparing rail before laying but not so ideal for making a gap in rail already laid. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 (edited) Don Exactly my scheme: Xuron's up to Code 100; razor saw up to about Code 150; junior hacksaw (nice rigid one that I made myself as an exam piece when I was a trainee) for Code 200 and LGB Code 330(?). There's nothing wrong with using a hacksaw for Code 200, provided that the blade is one with fine teeth, and trying to use a razor saw at that size is simply masochism. A slitting disc in a mini-drill is good for in-situ gapping in fine rail, but one need to be careful not to break the disc and get an eyeful of nasty sharp things. Kevin Edited January 5, 2018 by Nearholmer 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 I couldn't make out the tips of the switches, but as long as the gauge between the tip of a closed switch and the opposite stock rail is not tight, there shouldn't be a problem. This is probably less of an issue in OO than in finescale track. It's more important that things run through it smoothly rather than whether it is 'technically' right! Nice work. Jim Better view. I've clearly made these blades too long, but can easily slide then out of the chairs and cut them down, a luxury, I realise, I won't have when it comes to the vignoles-railed switches! 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 Better view. I've clearly made these blades too long, but can easily slide then out of the chairs and cut them down, a luxury, I realise, I won't have when it comes to the vignoles-railed switches! I can see that better now. The easiest way I've found to determine where the tips of the switches should come is, with neither switch in place, slide a track gauge along the approach to the turnout until it will go no further. This is the point at which the stock rails start to diverge. The tips of the switches should lie at this point or even perhaps slightly nearer the crossing. I'm not saying this is the 'correct' way to do it, but it has always worked for me. Jim 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted January 5, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2018 Better view. I've clearly made these blades too long, but can easily slide then out of the chairs and cut them down, a luxury, I realise, I won't have when it comes to the vignoles-railed switches!You don't appear to have “set” (slight tweak) in the turnout road stock rail, and the turnout route starts to diverge about 5 timbers later than as printed. Personally, I would go with Jim’s suggestion about using a track gauge to find the sweet spot, remove the blades, shorten to match and re-insert. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Andy Hayter Posted January 5, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 5, 2018 That joggle (set) is certainly not universal and I have built HO track without recourse to such techniques. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 That joggle (set) is certainly not universal and I have built HO track without recourse to such techniques. A joggle and a set are two different things. A joggle is where there is a double kink in the stock rail producing a very slight widening of the gauge into which the tip of the switch sits (used routinely by the GWR I believe). A set is a distinct slight bend in the curved stock rail, or both if it's a 'Y', against which the planed face of the switch sits. You can just make out the set in the right hand turnout in this photo (cropped from a much larger image. The switches here are loose heel, so are separate from the closure rail and attached to it by a fishplate. An open switch tends to lie parallel with the adjacent stock rail rather than curving away from it, thus having a distinctive look. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 (edited) I agree that 'joggling' is not a necessity in model form. I think I posted a photo of a real set of modern switch-tips to highlight that modern practice is not to joggle, and I think that trying to create it on a model compounds the challenge. I'm not sure what practices in reality were in the early C20th, maybe bullhead rail was 'joggled', so if you want to go very 'hi-fi', it will probably involve old p-way text books, or a magnifying glass and a lot of old photos. Edited January 5, 2018 by Nearholmer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 Just so as you know, over the last 4 posts you have completely lost me. I just carried on the normal chairs until I thought I'd come to where the bendy bit should be. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nearholmer Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 One Gordon A has helpfully posted this http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/74362-point-blades-and-stock-rails/ It illustrates setting and joggling nicely. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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