Chromed handrail stanchions ('knobs')

[cctransuk]

My 4mm. scale modle of GT3 is nearing completion - see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/114917-building-the-chocolate-zephyr-gt3/ .

 

GT3, amongst quite a few othe locos, had chromed handrail stanchions, and I had labouriously fitted three dozen brass ones into a piece of wood, ready to spray them with Alclad chrome paint.

 

Then, I came across in another thread a mention of the 'old fashioned' method of producing handrail stanchions from small brass or copper split-pins.

 

It occurred to me that it might be possible to produce stanchions in this way using half-round nickel-silver wire, but the only source I could find was in the USA with expensive overseas P&P.

 

However, I did find a UK source of 0.8mm. dia. (20 gauge) half-round sterling silver wire at the very reasonable price of £7.99 per 5'-0'' length, with free UK P&P; see https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0046VZHGG/ref=pe_385721_37986871_TE_item .

 

Having made a closing plate; (1.0mm. dia. hole drilled in some thickish brass sheet, countersunk slightly on each side); it is dead easy to fold over some 6mm. or so of the half-round wire; place a length of your chosen nickel silver handrail wire in the apex of the V; and clench the half-round silver wire around the handrail wire with smooth-jawed pliers.

 

The longer leg of the half-round wire is then threaded through the hole in the closing plate, followed by the shorter leg. The apex of the V is pressed against the handrail wire to ensure that it is in full contact, and then the two legs of the half-round wire are given a sharp tug with pliers.

 

Result, a nicely formed handrail stanchion which can be clipped off with whatever length of shank you need. Once you get the technique, you can turn out 'chromed' stanchions at a fair rate of knots !!

 

Oh - and don't forget to polish your wires before starting the production process, or to seal the polish on the installed stanchions and rails with Klear or some other non-yellowing varnish.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

 

PS. I should have mentioned that the closing plate should be firmly held in a vice.

Edited May 5, 2017 by cctransuk

[bertiedog]

Whow there!  ........you do not need any half round wire to make the knobs, it needs ordinary wire filed to half round.

 

This is not difficult, it just needs a decent fine toothed flat needle file, Swiss pattern, and a small piece of hard wood.

 

Most handrails are .45mm to .6, and the wire to use is a .75mm to 1.1mm for the knob.

 

File a groove in to the wood across the grain, with a V file. This assume a piece of wood about 5 inch by 1 to 1.5 inch by 3/4 thick, that would fit a normal vice. It will work without the vice as well.

 

The groove should be about the half depth of the wire, and you make 1 inch or so at a time, by laying the wire in the grove and filing across diagonally to reduce it to half. Check with gauge or vernier to ensure consistency.(optional)

 

The inch long bits give something to work with, it is wrapped around the handrails, and pinched tight with pliers, preferably smooth jawed.

 

Each "knob" is then ready for use,

 

A washer can be added to the stem, or soldered in direct to the model

 

To get an easy Chrome finish use brass wire, and when you solder the knob on allow the solder to run over the brass. USE modern tin solder, lead free, it gives a good metallic look.

 

Practise on some before committing to the model.

 

Nickel silver wire can be used as well, but it will be covered with the solder anyway.

Silver would be best, but at the cost is not worth it.

 

Now the details.....

 

The height you solder them to should be measured with a simple forked gauge, made of hard wood.(wood school ruler)

 

If tiny washers for the bases are needed , but unobtainable, then you can make rings of fine .2mm wire wrapped around a 1mm wire, and slipped on to each stem. They are best soldered off the loco, and any surplus wire filed way, then they remain in place when the gauge is used to solder to the body.

 

Handrails finished in this manner are as good as any bought ones.

 

One last thing, you can silver plate the brass handrail knobs at home with a couple of chemicals and a battery....... they are tumble plated in a jar with a wire contact in the solution but small quantities are difficult.

 

Hope tthis helps, sounds complex,...it is not for the half round tin plated type

 

Stephen..

Edited May 5, 2017 by bertiedog

[bertiedog]

If no smooth jawed pliers are available, buy a poundland plier, a long nose type, and in a vice bend the tips inwards, then file the jaws till they meet flat and very carefully "round" the corners so there are no sharp edges with fine emery paper. A perfect pair of smooth jewellers pliers.

Do not attempt to bend expensive types they may break!

Stephen

[cctransuk]

Whow there!  ........you do not need any half round wire to make the knobs, it needs ordinary wire filed to half round.

 

This is not difficult, it just needs a decent fine toothed flat needle file, Swiss pattern, and a small piece of hard wood.

 

Most handrails are .45mm to .6, and the wire to use is a .75mm to 1.1mm for the knob.

 

File a groove in to the wood across the grain, with a V file. This assume a piece of wood about 5 inch by 1 to 1.5 inch by 3/4 thick, that would fit a normal vice. It will work without the vice as well.

 

The groove should be about the half depth of the wire, and you make 1 inch or so at a time, by laying the wire in the grove and filing across diagonally to reduce it to half. Check with gauge or vernier to ensure consistency.(optional)

 

The inch long bits give something to work with, it is wrapped around the handrails, and pinched tight with pliers, preferably smooth jawed.

 

Each "knob" is then ready for use,

 

A washer can be added to the stem, or soldered in direct to the model

 

To get an easy Chrome finish use brass wire, and when you solder the knob on allow the solder to run over the brass. USE modern tin solder, lead free, it gives a good metallic look.

 

Practise on some before committing to the model.

 

Nickel silver wire can be used as well, but it will be covered with the solder anyway.

Silver would be best, but at the cost is not worth it.

 

Now the details.....

 

The height you solder them to should be measured with a simple forked gauge, made of hard wood.(wood school ruler)

 

If tiny washers for the bases are needed , but unobtainable, then you can make rings of fine .2mm wire wrapped around a 1mm wire, and slipped on to each stem. They are best soldered off the loco, and any surplus wire filed way, then they remain in place when the gauge is used to solder to the body.

 

Handrails finished in this manner are as good as any bought ones.

 

One last thing, you can silver plate the brass handrail knobs at home with a couple of chemicals and a battery....... they are tumble plated in a jar with a wire contact in the solution but small quantities are difficult.

 

Hope tthis helps, sounds complex,...it is not for the half round tin plated type

 

Stephen..

 

Stephen,

 

At £7.99 for 5 ft. of half-round sterling silver wire - why bother with all that ?

 

5 ft. = around 120 'chromed' stanchions, which is a bargain in my book !

 

No jig-making (except the closing plate - 5 minutes), no filing, no soldering, no electro-plating - I knocked out more than enough for GT3 in less than half an hour.

 

My modelling time is valuable - far more valuable than silver wire at £7.99 for 5 ft; if I can speed things up I can get on with other projects in the mountain of 'to do' kits !

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[bertiedog]

Simply saves the cost, and takes little longer than using silver...are they left unsoldered then, but soldered to the body?

They take about a minute each to do, say 20 on a loco, under half an hour for the lot with time to spare, no ordering in or wait for delivery.

I outlined the method not just for you, but any member to read, as they are probably not aware of how to make them at all, let alone made in silver.

Edit ..out of curiosity I have just tried 6 and it took about 20 secs each one, ready to fit and unsoldered.

[cctransuk]

Simply saves the cost, and takes little longer than using silver...are they left unsoldered then, but soldered to the body?

 

No - the kit in question has a resin body !!

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.