Heres One I Made Earlier

[Adam]

Your lining puts that on my H to shame. I wish I could do as good a job.

 

I don't know about that Ian, there's only one corner which really looks out of kilter. It was done in exactly the same way: waterslide transfers, lots of patience and the willingness to remove and start again if needed, and it was, probably twice in some areas (the splashers over the front drivers) and the valence ends from memory. Care, attention and the ability to be self-critical while the job is in hand is what it takes. Letting the corners properly harden off before the straight lengths go on helps too.

 

I hope you don't mind Peter, but I've played with the image of your O2 a little to show the Push-Pull (or is that Pull-Push?) gear a little better.

 

 

Adam

[Peter Bedding]

I don't know about that Ian, there's only one corner which really looks out of kilter. It was done in exactly the same way: waterslide transfers, lots of patience and the willingness to remove and start again if needed, and it was, probably twice in some areas (the splashers over the front drivers) and the valence ends from memory. Care, attention and the ability to be self-critical while the job is in hand is what it takes. Letting the corners properly harden off before the straight lengths go on helps too.

 

I hope you don't mind Peter, but I've played with the image of your O2 a little to show the push pull (or is that Pull-push?) gear a little better.

 

 

Adam

 

That looks much better!! And Mike King says Pull-Push on the Southern.

 

I keep intending to acquire some simple studio-type lighting equipment, but then some other temptation (such as a BWT) jumps the queue.

 

PB

[Peter Bedding]

At risk of excessive use of this thread, I have a few more (assembled by Adam) that are worth seeing.

 

 

Set 148 was one of the ex-LSWR 56ft (non-corridor) Lav Cross-Country Three Sets that were built as four sets in 1904, had one centre coach removed (for use as "loose") during the early 1930s, and then survived until as late as 1957. Much information is in Gordon Weddell's "LSWR Carriages in the 20th Century Vol 2". These Roxey kits were assembled by Adam about three/four years ago, and the kits are still available.

 

 

The prototypes appeared all over the Southern's Western Division, not necessarily limited to any one working, though predominantly on secondary routes. Good for Plymouth-Tavistock diagrams, and particularly behind one of Friary's T1's, or M7's.

 

If a small-scale manufacturer should wish to take a punt in the specialist r-t-r market, then these sets would be a perfect choice. Also, for those who may be so minded, conversions of the old Triang Clerestories can be very convincing.

 

Set 148 takes pride of place in my carriage sidings.

 

PB

[Adam]

This is all very kind Peter, but credit should be given to my father who has carried out the bulk of the painting. It's his skill with the airbrush that makes the real difference!

 

Adam

[DLT]

This threads gone quiet for a while, so I will add some of the stuff I did when I set out as a committed Southern Modeller, before I was seduced by the dark side (narrow gauge)

It was many years ago and as an impoverished schoolboy I had to make do.

 

A genuine SR loco was this secondhand (and showed it) Tri-ang M7; to which I added Romford Driving wheels and various extra detail like injector pipework from copper wire, correct cab spectacles, coal rails etc. I never got round to swapping the bogie wheels, they're still in the box.

 

But the bit I was most proud of was the paint job; the black was brush painted, and the lining applied using Humbrol paint in a bow pen. Straight lines were ruled, but the curves were all done by hand. Boiler bands were the popular method at the time of dawing lines onto Sellotape stuck to a flat surface, and cut into thin strips and applied.

It probably doesnt bare close scrutiny today, but I was mightily pleased with my efforts, and it looked fine on a layout.

 

Cheers,

Dave.T

 

 

 

 

[DLT]

My M7 was followed by a G6, a Wills Finecast kit built pretty much as supplied, and running on a Hornby Dublo or Wrenn chassis (can't remember which)

Quite a big purchase at the time, it took my quite a while to save up for it.

I wanted to try my hand at weathering with this one, its nearly all dry-brushing over matt black. Again, its probably not very authentic, but I was very pleased with it.

Cheers,

Dave.

 

 

 

[DLT]

My first genuine Southern building was the classic LSWR signalbox, built from the drawings and photos in G.A.Pryer's Southern Signalling book.

Construction is entirely plasticard, the brickwork os Superquick paper.

I went a bit mad with the detailing and even made sliding windows. One of the photos shows the windows open.

 

 

 

 

I just had to do the interior: levers are houshold pins without the heads, pushed into a block of balsa. Instrument shelf, token machine, and all other details are card, balsa, and plasticard.

 

 

 

 

It was made in the late 1970s so its showing its age by warping a bit, but its not bad for nearly 35 years old!

 

Cheers,

Dave.

[mudmagnet]

Very nice Dave. Given me some ideas for my signal box interior for the one I am building for Burrington Arms. I don't really want to buy a detail kit when I can make most of what's needed myself.

 

Cheers

[DLT]

Very nice Dave. Given me some ideas for my signal box interior for the one I am building for Burrington Arms. I don't really want to buy a detail kit when I can make most of what's needed myself.

Cheers

Thanks Mudders, I was beginning to wonder if anyone was reading this thread!

Theres another building to come shortly.

Cheers,

Dave.

[Dorsetmike]

My first excuse is that I model in N gauge I don't profess to be able to work to the some of the standards exhibited here, however so you can see how the other half live I submit a few examples of my scratch built and kit bashed efforts. I mostly have to rely on proprietary chassis, my skills not being quite the required level. Furthermore I do tend to model on a bit of a shoestring these days, as a mortgage outgoing on a pension income doesn't leave much slack!

 

I do have a Unimat lathe with milling attachment, my boilers are usually made from suitable diameter brass tube, with the boiler bands and smoke box left and the spaces between them skimmed, evident on the part built A12; as can be seen from the "finished" pic I need to redo the lining on the cab and splashers (78 year old hands and eyes ain't as steady as the used to be)

 

The tender drive is Union Mills with a body bashed from a Worsley Works Drummond kit.

 

 

 

As for made earlier, the Urie S15 dates back to late 1970s, whereas the Maunsell S15 837 is only about 15 years old.

 

 

 

509 is for me quite straight, Langley white metal kit on Flieschmann chassis and tender drive, it's been through a couple of livery changes over the years, 837 is what I term a mix and match, the loco body and chassis are same origin as 509 but with the cab and footplate altered, the tender body is bashed from a BH enterprises N15 kit, mounted on a Minitrix tender drive.

[DLT]

Very nice Mike.

As a 7mm modeller myself, I have the greatest admiration for anyone who can model in 2mm scale; let alone scratchbuild locomotives!

 

Thanks for sharing,

 

Dave.

[N15class]

Thought I would add a loco here too.

 

This is a G6 from a Gibson. This was a straight from the box build in 4mm to EM gauge. It has a Branchlines gearbox and Mashima motor. I found the kit went together well, apart from the smoke box, which was as said on the O2 posting a bit on the thick side. I did the soldering wiith a copper wire around it to hold all together then dangled it over the gas hob. I do believe I swapped the wheels for Sharman ones. I finished it in goods black livery. It is now with a new owner as it was sold on when I decided to change completely to O gauge.

 

 

Sorry it is not a very good photo, the originals were lost on a crashed hard drive.

[N15class]

Hi Peter,

 

Are you proposing a scratchbuild or a kit? The Paddlebox was a Nu-Cast kit, I think they also did the Adams Jubilee. I've no idea if they are still available anywhere.

I don't know of any kits for the K10 or S11, but PDK do a nice looking kit for for a D15

 

Graham Muz may be able to advise more (he knows everything..!)

 

Cheers,

Dave.

 

Just found this, LSWR models used to do a K or L, their range went to Loddon Models in Early or Sindlesham. From there I lost track. I always fancied one when I was modelling 4mm.