DAS Clay and platforms

[SNCF stephen]

Hello again,

 

I am currently in the process of examining the platforms I have and considering whether to upgrade them from the plastic modular platforms I have currently to something that would better suit the layouts needs and allow me to put features on the platform where I wanted them. The platforms I am looking to depict are a mixture of tar mac surface, edging stones and gravel (very very fine gravel) and this made me wonder whether DAS clay would be a good way of modelling these types of platrforms.

 

I have tried other modelling clays before (for other purposes) but found that it cracked as it dried. Is DAS clay the same or will it dry better.

I have read a few articles about Tetley Mills and the use of DAS clay in the construction of the pavements and buildings on that layout but I would be interested to hear other people's opinions on the product and its use for constructing platforms.

 

If anyone else has any ideas about good ways to construct platforms then I would be happy to hear them.

 

Many many thanks

 

Stephen

[TomE]

Hi Steven.

 

My only advice about using DAS is that when sanded smooth, it becomes fibrous, giving a hairy appearance. However if you spray it with primer you can tamp down these strands whilst still slightly wet which can add some texture.

 

Have you considered foamboard? You can cut it to any shape you like and to recreate a tarmac surface just spray with Plasti-cote suede texture paint, then a blast of Grey primer, then a wash of thinned black paint until you are happy with the finish. Credit goes to JimSW for this method.

 

These aren't platform surfaces but here's an example of DAS in use:

 

 

And Here's foamboard:

 

 

Both of the above are N gauge.

 

Hope this helps a little.

 

Tom.

[SNCF stephen]

Tom, that sounds like a method that would be a lot less time consuming and would probably look a lot better. Plus the price of foam board is not expensive. I shall purchase some when I get the funds. Thank you so much for your help.

[R A Watson]

The method I have used with genuine branded DAS (which normally does not contain the plastic fibres used in other suppliers products) is to fix the edging slabs and other pavings then spread dilute PVA 50/50 with water.

 

Put small amounts of DAS on the surface and work in with wet fingers until it becomes almost a slurry which will set reasonably level and most likely not require sanding. When completely dry, if you have applied it to plasticard structures, flood the surface with MEKpack or similar which will soak through and help adhesion.

 

I have used this method on the walls of a farmhouse building to recreate rough rendering and it stuck solidly for over twenty years long after the walls had deformed with age.

[SNCF stephen]

Thank you very much for your advice about the DAS clay. I was looking to do some broken rendering at some point on my buildings that I have made and DAS seemed to be a good option. I have heard that using a brush on DAS clay can create a gravel type effect (almost stabbing at the clay with the brush), I suppose this could be used in conjunction with the foam board to get the gravel where I need it.

[Il Grifone]

I've had problems with 'Das' cracking, but this was probably due to using too thick a layer.

[Il Grifone]

I've had problems with 'Das' cracking, but this was probably due to using too thick a layer.

[SNCF stephen]

Thanks for the input David. What thicknesses have you had cracks appear in?

 

Stephen

[Michael Delamar]

Das doesnt have fibres, cheap stuff does, and doesnt crack if you smear a layer of pva/wood glue down first. all the trackwork here is covered in DAS.

 

as long as its on a sturdy wooden base then your ok. and Id recommend the white rather than terracotta but thats not the end of the world.

 

the trackwork, roads and cuttings on this is DAS modelling clay.

 

http://www.rmweb.co....t=651&start=100

[R A Watson]

I got the tip to work the DAS on to dilute PVA from no less an expert than Dave Rowe when his diaromamas were the flavour of the month.

 

Dave was undoubtedly the pioneer user of the material in our field and used this to stop the cracking during drying he was experiencing in his experiments.

[Michael Delamar]

I learned from Chris Hewitt who I think he told me he learned it from Maggie and Gordon Gravett

 

the only thing I would say with mixing is that it makes it harder and therefore harder to scribe detail in.

which is why id say put a thin layer of the glue down and then roll the clay, finger and thumb into it.

[SNCF stephen]

Thanks for the tips. I was wondering what might be the best sorts of tool to scribe the detail with? Would a scalpol do the job or do I need something better suited for the job?

[bertiedog]

For carving the details try wax carvers tools, they are in sets on ebay, a set of steel tools with various shaped ends for impressing wax and similar materials.

I will look up references

Stephen.

[bertiedog]

Use wax carvers tools as search in Ebay, a typical set Ebay link

 

I have a simular set bought many years ago from Proops, who have a website, and may still supply such items as well, useful for any carving of soft materials, plaster. clay, wax, etc., and scenic detail work, tree trunks, rock faces etc., the uses are limitless really.

 

I have no connection with sellers and make no recommendation about any listing, purely for reference

 

Stephen.

[Michael Delamar]

anything from a pin vice, nail in a chuck.

 

the roads on crown street were sanded first to pavement height, then a straight edge laid down at the pavement edge then a sharp chizel was used to get the road camber and gutter.

 

its good stuff to use, if a little dusty, best to plan ahead, one of the jobs that needs doing early.