Karhedron Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 I hope I am not duplicating an existing topic, I had a look but couldn't find a thread dedicated to these yet. I was looking at the NGS website and noticed photos of some decorated samples from TINGS. http://www.ngaugesoc...rade-news#TINGS 2012 I wondered if Dapol have now finalised the running numbers and liveries for the production models now? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hippo Posted November 26, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 26, 2012 Dapol Dave had 2 in the showcase yesterday at Warley, and they looked great. I think he said end of Jan for the delivery date. Owen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinmore Manor Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 They did look very good indeed, not so sure about the fully lined out example though...........! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted November 26, 2012 Author Share Posted November 26, 2012 I think DapolDave mentioned that this was something that the chinese factory did off their own bat and was not planned to be released in that livery. It was a very nice rendition of lined GWR livery though. Perhaps an indication of what the next batch of Halls might look like if we are lucky. The black-painted wheels look good too. http://www.ness-st.c...apol4_large.jpg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hailstone Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Any ideas as to when they are likely to appear? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 Review samples have arrived but not sure when they are due in the shops. Probably as soon as they get off the boat. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/66654-Dapol-28xx-photo-review/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted February 21, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 21, 2013 Took the opportunity to have a good look at one of these this evening at the http://www.gascupboard.co.uk/ and have to say that I'm seriously impressed. They have caught the sleek good looks of these heavy freight locos a treat. I won't be getting one for myself but I can certainly see one or two of these trundling round Totnes. Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 I've just got one and only briefly test run it. Seems to work as most Dapol steam these days as they all pretty much have the same motor. A little stuttery to start for the first few turns of the wheels and a little noisy, but smooth once going. No A3/A4esk pickup problems. Mine had a click which looked to be one of the slide bars slightly bent, when rectified the click had gone - presumably the crosshead on that side was catching slightly. Once run in I will check for any other adjustments that are required - it definitely seesaws slightly on the centre (well 3rd!) driver, which I hope won't be a haulage concern given that the tyres are on the rearmost set. The front wheels and the tender wheels look very fine with their slender spokes, though the blackening seems lesser than on some models so they do stand out, as do the rims of the drivers. I will tone these down in black, as well as thin down the crossheads (look to be the same component as used on the Halls). Beyond this I'll see when I come to respray what it's like to dismantle (tender will be easy), as I bought a GWR one rather than bother wait for the BR ones which are sure to be oversubscribed and therefore possibly more expensive too. And black is the easiest respray there can be! Overall looks good, will see how running in goes. Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlambert Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Found a BR black 28xx in a local model shop (they also had one of the early crest versions). Decided I was better buying it there and then. Was a bit noisy at first but has quietened down after running in. Seems happy to run right down to a crawl and I was surprised but it will even crawl through Peco Settrack points. The only problems was that one axle on the tender seemed to jam or bind when running in reverse around second radius curves. Running in seems to have cured that issue and the only minor niggle is that the tender wheels are not blackened very evenly, nothing a bit of paint can't fix. It bodes well for the West Country/Battle of Britain and Schools class locos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 I was running mine in and it seemed quite happy for 1 hour. Then it suddenly stopped and a lot of nasty smoke came out of the tender! I have heard of it happening to others occasionally but it is a first for me. Oh well, back to the shop I guess. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlambert Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 That's a shame, I did notice the tender of mine was a bit warm after a couple of hours running in but no smoke or any problems yet. Hope you get it sorted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBS Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Hi all (and Dapol Dave!), I pre-ordered a 2884 from a well-known mail order supplier, using the Dapol catalogue reference number for No 2872 with Great Western lettering, and duly received a confirmation that it had arrived in stock. I confirmed my order and the loco arrived safe and sound the next day - excellent. The only problem was that it was No 2892, with shirt button logo. I decided that I could live with this so didnt return it. I went on to confirm an order for No 2872 from a local model shop, as and when it came in stock. This week, I was told it had arrived and went to collect yesterday. This one turned out to be No 2884 with G W R lettering, which is a bit late for my modelling period. The key point is that both suppliers assure me that they ordered the correct product reference for No 2872 but got the wrong models. Perhaps Dapol should check their order fulfilment procedures to ensure that such errors don't continue - it is inconvenient for the sellers and frustrating for the customers. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted March 13, 2013 Author Share Posted March 13, 2013 The problem is that 2872 is one of the earlier Churchward 2-8-0s and so quite different to the 2884 class that Dapol have produced. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 Mine has now finished a quick trip through the works. Dismantling may be of interest to folks, so a couple of snaps below: Tender disconnects easily with removal of the pickup wires and one drawbar screw. The chassis then needs the coupling rods removed, as the cylinders are attached to the underside of the footplate. Remove the front bogie. Remove the rearmost screw, and then come careful wangling of the front of the chassis (which is clipped fairly tightly). This will allow the 0-8-0 chassis to be removed and access to the worm and bearings (important for lubrication). There is a small weight on the top of the chassis which needs unclipped to access the worm. Overall the impression of the engineering of the chassis is very good - doesn't look to now use the tungsten frames but instead a split cast chassis with the phosphor bearings set into it. This must add to the weight as most of the chassis space is either casting or gears - there's a lot less air in there! Also the boiler is filled with a cast weight. Beyond this in my workover I've also: - Thinned the crossheads down - painted the crank pins gunmetal - weathered the valve gear with black wash - painted the wheel rims black - resprayed the loco BR black, Fox crests and dullcote finish. The tender still looks to sit a bit high, but with the wheels painted it's far less noticable. Still to do - better coal, some fire irons and a touch of extra weight in the tender. Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray76 Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Hi Dr Al I've been following your description of dismantling your 2-8-0. Just how do you 'wangle' the front off? Is it clipped or just very tight. I'm afraid of damaging the slid bars which, like the rest of the motion, appears to be made of the softest metal they could find! So how do you undo the clip or lever the chassis out? Ray Mine has now finished a quick trip through the works. Dismantling may be of interest to folks, so a couple of snaps below: Tender disconnects easily with removal of the pickup wires and one drawbar screw. The chassis then needs the coupling rods removed, as the cylinders are attached to the underside of the footplate. Remove the front bogie. Remove the rearmost screw, and then come careful wangling of the front of the chassis (which is clipped fairly tightly). This will allow the 0-8-0 chassis to be removed and access to the worm and bearings (important for lubrication). There is a small weight on the top of the chassis which needs unclipped to access the worm. 2884 apart 1.jpg 2884 apart 2.jpg Overall the impression of the engineering of the chassis is very good - doesn't look to now use the tungsten frames but instead a split cast chassis with the phosphor bearings set into it. This must add to the weight as most of the chassis space is either casting or gears - there's a lot less air in there! Also the boiler is filled with a cast weight. Beyond this in my workover I've also: - Thinned the crossheads down - painted the crank pins gunmetal - weathered the valve gear with black wash - painted the wheel rims black - resprayed the loco BR black, Fox crests and dullcote finish. 2884_1.jpg 2884_2.jpg The tender still looks to sit a bit high, but with the wheels painted it's far less noticable. Still to do - better coal, some fire irons and a touch of extra weight in the tender. Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 I was running mine in and it seemed quite happy for 1 hour. Then it suddenly stopped and a lot of nasty smoke came out of the tender! I have heard of it happening to others occasionally but it is a first for me. Oh well, back to the shop I guess. Did it come from Church Street Models? He mentioned that he had one customer who had this problem. I told him no to worry because I was unlikely to retain the motor. I would like to have rather less coal in the tender so plan to swap the motor out early on. I'm undecided whether to replace the whole chassis for finescale use: I think that turning the wheels is worth a shot before reaching a decision. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted March 19, 2013 Author Share Posted March 19, 2013 Did it come from Church Street Models? He mentioned that he had one customer who had this problem. It did indeed, too bad I could not swap the motor for yours. Still, he is handling the return and repair/replacement. There will always be the odd dud in any production run, the important thing is how retailers and manufacturers handle them. So far Church Street Models have been faultless, lets hope there is a replacement available. I really want 2884 in post-war GWR livery so I hope there is a replacement available at Dapol (or a replacement motor). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 Hi Dr Al I've been following your description of dismantling your 2-8-0. Just how do you 'wangle' the front off? Is it clipped or just very tight. I'm afraid of damaging the slid bars which, like the rest of the motion, appears to be made of the softest metal they could find! So how do you undo the clip or lever the chassis out? Ray I removed the front bogie and then just levered from various angles until eventually I got some movement. You can see the clip on the top RH end of the chassis on my snap. Did it come from Church Street Models? He mentioned that he had one customer who had this problem. I told him no to worry because I was unlikely to retain the motor. I would like to have rather less coal in the tender Depending how much less coal you want you may not need to remove the motor and replace it. I intend to cut out the moulded coal and replace - I think I'll be able to reduce the height quite a bit, without impinging on motor space. So far Church Street Models have been faultless, lets hope there is a replacement available. I really want 2884 in post-war GWR livery so I hope there is a replacement available at Dapol (or a replacement motor). Or could just respray a GWR one ..... Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 It did indeed, too bad I could not swap the motor for yours. . You still could if it isn't already at the service agent? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray76 Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 Hi Alan, I,eventually, managed to get it apart by removing the body from the footplate. The works come out fairly easily then- I still did the slidebars a lot of no good though! -I did try to unclip them. I'm going to replace that weight with lead, then hope to get it all back together. Ray I removed the front bogie and then just levered from various angles until eventually I got some movement. You can see the clip on the top RH end of the chassis on my snap. Depending how much less coal you want you may not need to remove the motor and replace it. I intend to cut out the moulded coal and replace - I think I'll be able to reduce the height quite a bit, without impinging on motor space. Or could just respray a GWR one ..... Cheers,Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 I'm going to replace that weight with lead, I'd check its weight first. Dapol say they use tungsten chassis weights, and if so you should leave it as is - tungsten is denser than lead! Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Although I'd be a little surprised if it's solid tungsten (although I'd be very interested to be proved wrong!). My guess is that it would be MIM tungsten powder in a polymer/epoxy filler, which would probably work out at about the same density as lead. Dapol's preference for it may be driven by safety rather than higher density. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Could be sintered either? If this is the case it might have density 95-99% of 'solid' material. MIM parts are usually approaching 100% dense too once debound and sintered. However there might be some filler in the feedstock that is designed to remain. I haven't taken my model apart yet so can only speculate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray76 Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Hi Folks, It aint Tungsten- I did weigh it! Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Hi Folks, It aint Tungsten- I did weigh it! Ray Interesting...maybe Dapol Dave can confirm. Not that I'm worried - my loco had no trouble with 30 wagons straight from the box, and I suspect it'd pull at least double that on the level no trouble. Cheers, Alan Cheers Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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