flexible_coupling Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 Not being one to exaggerate - and having actually counted my sprawling AutoCAD worksheet where nearly all progressive incarnations have been kept for reference - this is my 70th, and "final" plan for the construction of a small layout to occupy myself in the time betwen now and when I am suitably provided with sprawling space for a "real railway"... Track plan above is the already well-liked and proven single-turnout-plus-traverser Moxley Heath/Reely Grate style. I'm sold on it being enough of a constructional challenge and interesting enough for short 'play' sessions in the slim portions of spare time that I have at present. As I have a little more space and no present inclination to have another railway in my current house, I've chosen to make the dimensions a little more generous than the predecessors, giving approximately four-foot in the scenic area (the slightly angled roadbridge and anticipated inch-or-two of low relief buildings at a higher level, disguising the storage yard) by 450mm/18" deep. I've given the canal and elevated roadway a bit of an angle to simply break up the squareness that I was getting in a lot of my designs during the process. The yard is planned out to allow two-wagon consists to be shunted in/out by a Jinty-or-smaller loco; a larger loco can inhabit the area for testing/running purposes but would be limited to simple in/out/lift away movements! But that's fine for my current fiscal-investment strategy... One fatal trap I've fallen for is keeping a log of the expenses directly relating to the construction of a model railway. Timber and associated bits (not including the new, very inexpensive jigsaw and detail sander) is about AU$95.00 - I went for a higher-grade 6mm ply for the top, as everything else was warped to the nth degree.... 89mm x 19mm pine for the frame, the deeper stuff has a particular requirement as will become obvious... I jumped in and bought all of the timber/hardware in one afternoon as I'd hired a car for the week (I don't own one) and took full advantage of the opportunity to visit the larger hardware store! One element that put the '6-foot-long' idea in mind was the introduction of a single bed into my 'spare room'. A larger layout sprawling around would've severely impaired the usefulness of the bed - and would have brought in risks should a sudden move-of-house become necessary. I'll always have room for a single bed - and therefore - a layout that can fit on it... To make future lighting/wiring/alterations as simple as possible, I've anticipated the cavities that will become available under buildings, and cut out clearing holes in preparation. The canal is now present - the track road-bed remaining integral in the ply top for a bit of structural integrity and continuity. The 'back-story' I've invented to go along with the canal is simple. Up to about 1940, the canal was in use serving the factories on the lower side of Herrington Road. The railway served a few factories behind the road (to the 'right of picture', in fiddle-yard land), but a deal was struck in 1942 to demolish two shops, lift the road for a week, and put a rail link through to the new Mullard wireless valve factory and Shepton and Sons' ironmongers. A deal with the canal board led to the canal spur being cut back a few dozen yards. New fabricated iron girders and bridge beams made in the Shepton's yard were craned into position, and rail links put through. The canal still technically flows under the rail bridges, but there's nothing but mischevious schoolboys, rats and litter under the bridges now... This is a 'bracket' made to keep the tail end of the canal base in position. Walls will be added around, along with bridge girders, in time. As the idea is quite the flight-of-fancy, I'm loathed to tie the layout down to a specific time-frame, however the rather later "blue diesel" post-TOPS is actually my intended long-term layout plan. I'm thinking of concocting a storyline that permits a private internal loco fleet to operate in tandem with the insinuated BR mainline link somewhere... some visitors from the outside obviously popping in occasionally... Trackwork will be Peco bullhead rail with soldered PCB sleepering throughout for this venture. Reely Grate has convinced me that it'll be quite appropriate for this exercise (there will be concreting up to the rails in a few areas and heavy/dirty ballast everywhere else). One interesting feature I wish to tackle on this is the scrapyard/foundry. Little typo on the diagram at the top - "sheds" - the backscene will have very low-relief foundry shed buildings attached, there is a larger brick building planned (by the gate in), the rest will be open space covered with sundry scrap. I have a Slaters 'GWR' one-plank wagon built up here that'll be the first part of the 'scenery'.... I'd love a time-machine to already have in my posession the mythical 'spares box' after building half-a-dozen or so diesel loco kits, to be able to thus raid and sprinkle air tanks, fans, grilles, cab-ends etc. around. I'm going along the lines that Shepton and Sons had the occasional full transition-era diesel locomotive to destroy (as sad and constitutionally challenging as the idea is!) along with wagons. I'll be scratchbuilding a heap of odds-and-ends like muffler piping etc. to make the scene interesting and densely packed in. The demon of woodworking (my least proficient field by a long way!) is a few sessions away from completion - I'm taking it very slow to try and get it right!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 What a great start. I will be following this with interest. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alant Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 Yes, this looks interesting. Good luck with your build. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flexible_coupling Posted August 18, 2013 Author Share Posted August 18, 2013 After about three sessions of hard and painful labour (woodworking is absolutely not a natural skill for me!), I've completed the framing, and the main board for the scenic section and the loco head-shunt (past the traverser) have been nailed down. It's straight and square, astonishingly, and very sturdy. Still to be added is the two cross-members for the drawer runners to be bolted to (unused parts from my big computer desk!) and the actual traverser bed. That's another day's project. I have cut the aluminium angle for each outer edge of the traverser in preparation. - The start of yesterday's session (cutting the cross-members and doing some more trimming on the two longitudinal members) - All cut up (still to have ends dressed) - Today; cable routing holes bored through the cross members to allow things to be arranged neatly. As the first few members were added, I realised the frame had pulled out of square a little, so I nailed on the top ply panel while pulling it all back. Much better. - Inside, all together (including the canal being glued in place) and on the bed where it will spend the vast majority of its' future! - For a bit of scale/perspective, my sole wagon and (not being used on this layout as it's not operational - although quite close to the planned size) handbuilt turnout. Extremely rewarding seeing it at this stage, I'm very pleased!! Progress will be a bit slower from here - next stages are the traverser, the backscene panels (3mm MDF sitting here ready) and cardboard mockups of the buildings. I may start 'engineering' the roadway from MDF at some point in the next few weeks as well. Slow and steady - and budget-restricted! Had to have a good crack at it to get past the major woodworking stage, otherwise it might've never happened Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrushType4 Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 Great stuff and shows you don't need a lot of space for a 7mm layout. Ill be following with interest. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flexible_coupling Posted August 19, 2013 Author Share Posted August 19, 2013 As an in-the-middle step, I picked up a small block of white DAS clay (was pleasantly surprised to find it in a specialist art shop in the city) and have started testing out its' properties. The photo below was my first 'go', on my testing plank. It was (and is, at the point of the photo) still "soft". I'm watching it over the course of the evening as it starts to harden, to get an idea in my mind of the right 'time' to start scribing. It became quite obvious that there was a very wrong time to start!! Nothing was measured or thought out too far ahead - just having a play at this stage. A quick question to those who have applied this - are you simply using fingers to knead, spread and flatten, or other tools? I haven't tried "rolling" anything like PVC tubing yet. I plan to have a modest amount of concrete and setts around, and am considering making my own canal walling with DAS over plastic sheet, if I can get the technique right. Practice practice, etc....! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGhostofNigelGresley Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 I used fingers exclusively for manipulating DAS. I left it in a shed to dry and it was noticeable that the part exposed to sunlight (it was ferociously hot mind) dried completely whilst that not in sun was still soft to the finger. Then I burned it, but that's another story that has nothing to do with DAS and a lot to do with talent..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 One thing you might want to think about for the "inlaid" track is another rail to protect the inside flangeway from the "road". What I did was to lay the Peco track, then get another length and cut it down the middle, removing most of the sleepers so you only have one every 2 inches or so. Then trim the outside of the sleeper right back to the chair, and then place the single rail (with part sleeper) in the gap between the "normal" track, pushing it right up as close as you can get it - you'll find that the chairs touch leaving a good flangeway , and the curve follows the full track. Pin or stick down and then weather the rails with dirt/dark rust. Once dry, mask off the top of the rails then you can fill in between with the DAS method above. What you should, in theory, end up with is something like http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Tramway_1938_Widening_Curve.jpg here at Weymouth. I haven't tried - but it might work just as well - would be some code 100 flexitrack with a sliver of plasticard underneath to bring it up to the same height as the O gauge rails. Often you had 'old' rail used for this sort of stuff so code 100 v code 124 might show up ok as some "recycled" lighter weight rail and the difference not that noticeable. Might be worth a go if you have some hanging around. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Since no sleepers are visible, would it not be easier to simply use copperclad sleepering and solder all 4 rails suitably gauged? Alternatively, the 'inside' rail could be represented by soldering e.g. brass angle of suitable dimensions to give this effect. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Perhaps but as Peco track appears to be in use, I merely offered it as an option. The OP may feel that soldering copperclad with the use of a spacer gauge may be beyond their capabilities at this moment in time. The brass angle idea is a good one but I suppose it wouldn't "curve" very easily without cutting the bottom edge between sleepers? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flexible_coupling Posted August 19, 2013 Author Share Posted August 19, 2013 Since no sleepers are visible, would it not be easier to simply use copperclad sleepering and solder all 4 rails suitably gauged? Alternatively, the 'inside' rail could be represented by soldering e.g. brass angle of suitable dimensions to give this effect. 'twould be my plan I've chosen to go with copper clad construction having already had a little success in building a turnout from scratch (although after some very sensible advice from a gent in a local model shop, I'm going to use a pre-machined C&L blades/vee set this time!! I figure I'll just run the roller gauges (when I buy some!) down as I go, set the inner rails as though they're turnout check-rails and we'll be fine. I was just mucking around on this particular example as a test - I have a small tester 'board' with a length of peco flex attached that I've been using to remember scenic techniques and try new things out - that's what I've applied the clay to at this stage. About 8 hours later, and it's still pretty soft (although has firmed up enough to notice). Still not really getting a desirable effect. Going to try scribing it dry... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 You do have quite a thickness of it too. Perhaps a 'packing' layer of stiff card or thin ply might speed things up as well as reducing the quantity needed. Cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flexible_coupling Posted August 20, 2013 Author Share Posted August 20, 2013 That's a pretty smart suggestion! I do feel that the 'mass' of the stuff is what's stopping it drying and becoming workable. I shall try a few layers of card on the other side of the track later... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 "to give this effect." Just love it! Where is it? Any more atmospheric photos like this? David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 It's Hull Docks, from this thread http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/45798-on-the-waterfront-hull-town-docks-trackwork-remnants/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 The inlaid track on Reely Grate was constructed by soldering one rail on its side into the web of the running rail:- Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
asa Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 Mike, that looks fantastic I'll have to try that myself. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flexible_coupling Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 Mike, you've just used regular "OO" code 100 rail for the upright and the "channel" yeah? Was there much height difference between railhead and the upper edge of the channel? I've found that, in the current cold weather, the DAS is just not hardening up. After a day, and after rolling it out with a small diameter metal deodorant can to about a 3mm thick pancake (great rolling pin - and gave me a good consistent level), it's close to the right sort of feel but is still just a bit too soft. Hard stuff to get the process right on at this stage. The other mild irritation is that it won't, naturally, stick down to the ply. I will use card and/or ply to create a sub-base around the place to minimize the amount of DAS used, as was suggested earlier, but I'm a little concerned about it not sticking down/wanting to lift up and come away.... I'll see how the current 'lump' goes tomorrow night....... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
switcher 1 Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 You might find some interesting info regarding using DAS modelling clay in this thread, his buildings are fantastic. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/65362-abbots-bridge-72g/?hl=georget Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Hi, here is a rather poor photo of the code 100 flat bottom tram track arrangement, it gives an idea of the height of the flange way and the running rail surface. The flange way is slightly below that of the running rail surface. I cheated by using 00 scale Wills sheets which I think work well in 0. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flexible_coupling Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 You might find some interesting info regarding using DAS modelling clay in this thread, his buildings are fantastic. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/65362-abbots-bridge-72g/?hl=georget Thanks! I'm looking at doing my own stone walling/footpath along the canal - I may even expand my efforts up to a building or two up on the road if I feel confident... Hi, here is a rather poor photo of the code 100 flat bottom tram track arrangement, it gives an idea of the height of the flange way and the running rail surface. The flange way is slightly below that of the running rail surface. I cheated by using 00 scale Wills sheets which I think work well in 0. flange.jpg Not seeming to have anything code 100 lurking about to check (only #125 bullhead and some scavenged semi-bullhead from Peco flex track) - I trust that that arrangement has enough depth to clear Slaters' wheel flanges? I don't mind if the "centre" drops a little bit, I can live with that for the price of having a nice clean and simple channel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 The other mild irritation is that it won't, naturally, stick down to the ply. I will use card and/or ply to create a sub-base around the place to minimize the amount of DAS used, as was suggested earlier, but I'm a little concerned about it not sticking down/wanting to lift up and come away.... I recall that a coat of PVA should be applied and allowed to dry before applying the DAS. The moisture in the DAS presumably reactivates the dried PVA which sticks it to the ply or card surface. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 There is adequate depth to clear Slaters wheel flanges using code 100. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flexible_coupling Posted August 22, 2013 Author Share Posted August 22, 2013 Thanks Mike, I greatly appreciate your input here! Yours is certainly a benchmark to reach for. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flexible_coupling Posted August 22, 2013 Author Share Posted August 22, 2013 To add to my previous exercises; I feel that I've just "cracked it" with regards to manipulating DAS. Two days after flattening a blob out with a 'rolling-pin', it's dry and hard-ish, and scribes as it looks in Chaz's progress photos on Dock Green. I've found that the large lump that I pressed down had actually 'curled' a bit on drying (I wanted it to stick to the ply of its' own free will, but it wouldn't have a bar of it - hoping it will naturally adhere to card and/or plastic sheet a bit better) but it could be pressed down and glued I fancy. Importantly - I reckon I've got it at the point that I can work with it successfully, and it looks quite interesting. Playing further and trialling a section of vertical wall in preparation of building up the canal on the 'proper' railway is next... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.