0_gauge_novice Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Good Morning to everybody, I have been silently watching the RMWeb for a number of years now and I thought I would give it a go with my projects. So an few quick informantion for the beggining. I model Greek Prototype (yes it is true what you read!) so almost nothing from RTR rolling stock exists. I do mostly H0 scale but since a couple of months now I have started with 0 gauge...hence 0 gauge novice. I will start to show two H0 scale projects that have been ongoing. For inputs, commets and ideas I am always open to listen. My first project is a baggage van of the SEK, the predecessor of the Hellenic State Railways,OSE. The van is set during the 1920s. There were 3 of these vans that were aquired during the Balkan wars from the CO (Chemin de fer Orientaux) and passed over to SEK. A number of years back I stumbled upon a picture of the Turkish van a delivered from Ringhoffer. In 2011 I got a Fleischmann van which is very similar but the arrangment of the body is different. The dimensions are the same. The initial idea was to modify the fleischmann body but it didnt work out so I made a new body out of evergreen sheets 20thou and strips. I kept the chassis, the roof and some other detail from fleischmann. The Buffers are excellent castings from Alexander models. In the mean time I have almost finished the van (painted, lettered and weathered) and I am applying the last details. I will upload a pictured asap. The second projekt that I present you is a Pwg14 baggage van that I will modify for Greece. Several of these were left over from WWII from the germans retreating. After the war some of them were repaired and put to service until the late 60s begining of 70s. The kit is a brass and white metal from Weinert. It is the first time I try to solder everything so I hope it comes well along. It needs a little bit more cleaning up but looks ok I think. I used 145deg solder for the brass parts and 70deg for the white metal ones. It needs still a lot to finish but it is coming along. Cheers Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
black5f Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Looks a nice a tidy job! Keep it up. Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted October 5, 2013 Author Share Posted October 5, 2013 Hi There, Thanks Tom for your kind words! Some progress to the Pwg14 from Weinert....I started with the chassis. It is kind of fidly and it needs work but I ll manage it...I guess... The body, chassis, axleboxes etc. The two sides of the Pwg. The chassis has only been dry fitted. I still needs work and drilling for all the steps and brake stuff. In the meantime I started another projekt from a Weinert kit (HO scale again..). The V36 diesel locomotive. After WWII one of these remained in Greece and was in service until the late 60s. It had the running number A7. The decals are already made...now I just need to build the kit... The kit is mostly whitemetal with cast brass details. Its quite easy to build. It is designed to be glued together but I will solder the whole stuff.... I also mention that the motor is a Faulhaber and the wheels are RP25 finescale. The content of the kit....it is a beginers kit. The chassis with the gearbox and the motor are factory assembled. The parts of the main chassis are cleaned up and ready for soldering. The soldered main chassis sitting on top of the the maschined chassis. More to come in the following weeks Cheers Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 A small update on the Pwg. After cleaning up and drilling the chassis I started detailing it. I added the steps and the braking levers. All were soldered. I am convinced now that soldering white metal is the easiest thing of the soldering materials....when I solder brass I am much more sloppy. Cheers Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted October 19, 2013 Author Share Posted October 19, 2013 Time to continue with the V36.... I prepared the detailing parts for the chassis a few days ago and today I have a day of peace (Girlfriend is gone hikking with her friends) I soldered it together.... The chassis with the details soldered. Everything went fine until....I did some damage to the white metal chassis...probably the body of the soldering iron did that when I was soldering with the tip a detail....although I had the temperature set a 150 deg. After a and I looked at the situation more calmly...I have two option, I guess...either I dont do anything because the detail is not so visible....or I will correct it with a small piece of plasticard sheet (probably 1mm thick) after I finish the chassis....what do you think or suggest? I learned my lesson though and it wont happen again.... You can see the melted white metal. I have filled the blob down. This is how it looks with the chassis on.... Cheers Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted October 19, 2013 Author Share Posted October 19, 2013 And for now...something more "British".... An WD Austerity 2-10-0 from a DJH/Grandspot kit in HO Scale. I started the kit but I became frustrated (quite complicated and tricky) so I gave it to a friend and he built it for me modifing it to corespond the Greek Prototype. Greece had 16 of these locomotives into service. This should be Λβ 952 (Λβ pronounced Lamda Beta is the the class name) and the only thing that is missing are the brass numberplates from balkanmodels...they are on order. My friend has built quite a few of them so he knows all the tricks of the kit. The original kit, besides the modifications in appearance has also technical modifications and sofisticated electronics. The loco has a maxxon motor instead of the mashima of the kit. It is equiped with SMD LED lightning not only in front and back but also in the cab and above the driving wheels. The front headlight can be controlled seperately from the direction lights. The loco uses one ESU Loksound 4.0 and a Tams function decoder in order to have all these functions. Oh...I know that the WD Austerity locomotives had disc wheels on the leading axle. 952 somewhere in the 60s got one from another locomotive (cannibalising?) probably from a Mα Breda 2-10-2. The running is quite good....I just received it (on thursday) and I needed to repair some transport damages... Now...I only need to built the 0 gauge model from Roxey, which sits here besides me..... Cheers Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted October 26, 2013 Author Share Posted October 26, 2013 The baggage van from the first post has finished. 4 windows are missing and the interior of the conductor. I will make these the following weeks. Cheers Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 Long time and no update....The Weinert V36 is further...the only problem is my time. I have been travelling a lot the past two months and it has been very difficult to sit down and do something... I managed to solder most of the superstructure and now I can begin with the detailing. Here is the current status. In the back I have to close the holes so it is still in process. Now first of all I need some holidays and then do something again...See you in May! Cheers Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 Well, here I am again....it was really itching me to start the Agenoria Kits Manning Wardle Contractors L, which I will built with a modified cab for a greek version. I will post a picture of the prototype later. Yesterday I soldered the chassis. The etches are good and all went together square without much fiddling. Seems like a pretty good kit. Now I need just to file back the excess metal and then go for the bushes, wheels and gearbox with drive. It will take some time though as for the next few months I will be with a parallel project, nothing to do with trains, extremely under pressure.... I am satisfied by the result if you imagine this is my first loco chassis that I built.... Cheers! Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 Hi too all, little progress due to a lot of work, but I also want to take it slowly to make no mistakes. I filled down the lugs from the spacers and I prepared the slaters wheels. I checked if everything is square on a mirror but also on a piece of straight track. I am quite happy with the result. Now I am opening the holes on the coupling rods with the broaches...it is quite fiddly but it is working along. The axle bushes haven´t been soldered yet. I will do this with the jig and the rods. Here is also a picture of the original locomotive before WWII in Athens Locomotive Shed (Unknown photographer) It was built a a Class M with works No. 1244 and was dispatched on the 14th of April 1892 to the contractor Eckersley, Godfrey & Liddlelow to Greece for the construction of the main Railway Line from Athens towards the north. Dispite the belief that the locomotive was given to the Athens Metropolitan Railway and then the State Railway on loan it was proved that the locomotive was indeed brought as work engine for the later one and when the contractor went bankcrupt it was on loan to the Athens Metropolitan. It is noted in the construction notes that the loco was initially painted in "Midland stylz.viz chocolate red" (Fred W. Harman, The Locomotives of Manning Wardle & Company, Vol 2). It stayed as a shunting engine in the Athens area until the early 50s and its disposal is unknown. I know that my model is a class L and needs some modifications, which I will do (cab, bunker etc.). The dimensions of the two locomotives are quite close.... Cheers Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartynS Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Hi Andreas, I look forward to the updates on this build, your chassis looks good and square and I think you have chosen well if this the first chassis you have built, nice neat job with no excess solder . Keep up the good work, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Andreas I had missed your previous posting of this thread. All the projects look very good and I now will look out for updates. Many of us would like to see some photos of your Greek layout, could you post some photos please Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted June 1, 2014 Author Share Posted June 1, 2014 Dear Martyn and John, thank you so much for your kind words. @Martyn: I tried the last year to tackle with the problem soldering. Out of the problem it turned out to be fun and no frustration anymore. A lot of reading and trial and error! I am quite happy now with the quality of my soldering but you never learn out. @John: I am currently ballasting so there is not much to see but I will present the project the next few days. Cheers Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted June 8, 2014 Author Share Posted June 8, 2014 A small update, today is extremely hot in Zurich with 32 Degrees but it is just beatiful sitting on the balcony looking towards green fields! Yes summer is here! Well...the Agenoria MW is progressing slowly. I fettled the rods and they sit good with a snug fit on the bushes. The bushes for the rods have been filled down but I think that I need a little bit more on some of them. I´ll see. The chassis is rolling free and is square. Now I need to solder the axle bushes and I have started with the Gearbox and motor. Cheers Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted June 12, 2014 Author Share Posted June 12, 2014 Hi, yesterday I soldered the axle bushes....everything was ok until I put the first axle in....hm...it does not move freely. The other two are more than ok. I think I fould the problem. The right bush is not entirely square to the chassis. I dont know how this happened. Now my question. How would you fix that? I tried with my 50w soldering iron to heat it and then press it but nothing... :-( I also have an 80w soldering iron or just heat up the 50w to 400-450 deg? Use flux or not? I am perplexed but eventually I will get it right....I think. Cheers Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Hi Andreas, Yes you will need more heat now that the bearings are all fitted, as the frames will act as a heat sink. Try 400-450 degs and put the tip straight on to the bearing face and without using any flux, and do not be tempted to touch the frames for a while afterwards unless you like burnt fingers . Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted June 12, 2014 Author Share Posted June 12, 2014 Hi Martyn, Thank you very much for your answer. I used my newly aquired 80w solder and it did the job in 10 sec. I put it straight on the bush. I soldered it correctly and it runs like a dream. Sadly I found the same stuff on the second axle but not so bad so I know now how to correct it. I learned my lesson for sure!!! Kind regards Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 Hi to all, I sorted out the whole bearings, rods, gearbox stuff of the MW. I see that the axles have a significant sideplay, which I want to reduce. My question.....the gearbox is in the last axle and I bought the washer from Slaters. Would you leave the last axle with the drive without sideplay and leave some sideplay to the 1st and 2nd or would you leave no sideplay in the 2nd and some in the 1st and 3rd?....ozzyo mentioned somewhere a sideplay of around 0.01thou on each side. Thanks for all the help in advance. Cheers Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Hi Andreas, It depends on how tight your track radius is really, the tighter the radius the more side play is required. I keep sideplay to a minimum on the drive axle, and I would have the most sideplay on the middle axle and the 3rd axle the same as the drive axle. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 Hi Martyn, I wont go below the radius of Lenz turnouts, which is about 60 inches (1650mm) even for normal curves. I hope this helps.... Cheers Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Hi Andreas, 60 inches ( 5ft ) is quite adequate for most 0-6-0's, in that case you do not need much side play at all. What you can do is run the loco on a fairly slow speed around the tightest curves and if the loco begins to slow down, just take a washer out from either the front and back, or the middle axle only, until the loco just keeps a constant speed around the curve, so you are fine tuning the loco for the track conditions. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allegheny1600 Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Hi Andreas, Thanks for the link to this thread, I only wish I'd discovered it/you sooner! Wonderful work and so nice to see that you are keen to have a go, even on things you've never done before! Bravo! Cheers, John E. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.