Ron Heggs

[quote Thanks Ron, very informative. Just to give you an idea I want to model a modern diesel shed. I can figure the horizontal dimensions using either google earth or the planning portal. Where I am struggling (only slightly I admit) is with the vertical dimensions. No doubt I could approximate the height of a common feature such as a door frame and then scale the rest from that so nothing too difficult but I would like to be as accurate as possible. I guess the best option would be to take a tape measure to the original! If you can get taped measurements thats OK You will still have to estimate the vertical dims. Although knowing the track and loco heights, and the door top clearance dim would get you a check on the overall heights Ron

Hi, Adriano The basic overall dimensions, may be obtained from archives, publications, surveys, and even photographs. The most common estimates for dimensions involves counting bricks, track widths, comparing with an object or feature of known dimensions One of the most common features of building structures from Victorian days is that dimensions were usually imperial in multiples of feet, 9", 6", etc. Common dimensions in Mill buildings for instance were 8', 10', and 12' for bays. It was relatively easy to determine overall dimensions and thus window spacings, window dimensions, etc., which can again be checked by brick counts, approx. 9" x 3" x 41/2" centres Large scale maps or even Google Maps can be used to obtain a reasonable assessment of overall dimensions of existing buildings . Steel extrusion members were normally equivalent to BS standard, although rivetted steel structural members were unique sizes Deciding on the sizes of plastic for models it is necessary to first determine the scale size of the item, and if thought to be too thin/small for robustness/loading bearing, etc. then move up a size For instance a steel thickness of say 10mm (a common dim. for steel bracing members) would be equivalent to 5 thou in 4mm scale, far too thin for modelling structures in plastic. I use 10 thou as a minimum, which cannot readily be recognised as overscale Vertical panels, etc are most likely to be modelled in overscale thickness to maintain strength and reduce distortion, and unlikely to be seen as such (walls, bridge parapets, etc.) Where a structure such as one of my bridge models incorporates multiple cross-bracings then the thickness can be chosen closer to scale size subject to the ability to model it without solvent destruction or distortion You may notice also, that I have on a number occasions made trial builds to confirm buildability, strength and determine best order of construction ... don't forget if looks right it is in all probability right, you won't be getting many rivet counters going round with their digital calipers !! Hope I haven't been to longwinded with my explanations If you do have any particular point of interest needing a clearer explanation just ask either here or PM Cheers Ron

Hi, Steve Thanks for interest and comments Just laying beams and lattice work on the template for the next span - hope to finish this span by next weekend Cheers Ron

Hi, Ian Thanks for that info. Seems OK for cutting 5 thou styrene and scoring/engraving 10thou +, and at £240 + P&P (free UK delivery from a no. of uk dealers) is a really useful tool for scratch builders. May decide to indulge !! Cheers Ron

Hi, Ian Your comments are much appreciated Cheers Ron

First coat of grey primer applied this afternoon - ... odd niches need touching up ... off now to study weather patterns B) ... sorry, weathering effects

Have just posted details of the plastic strip cutter/guillotine I built to aid the production of multiple pieces of plastic of the same length Homemade Guillotine Cheers Ron

Hi, David Thanks for your comments I do know one or two people have created models based on the GN & CLC goods yards both in 4mm & 7mm scales, more for the layout of the trackwork than trying to capture the prototype detail Sorry to have taken the wind out of your sails, but good luck in choosing your modelling subject Cheers Ron

Hi, Thanks for comments I take my lunch well away from all distractions, except maybe reading a railway magazine Sorry to disappoint you, but yes, I use only a 9mm Stanley Knife (plenty of spare blades), 150mm/300mm/600mm Steel Rules, a pair of tweezers and plastic weld with fine brush Checking dimensions constantly, using a digital caliper on occasions where the fit has to be especially accurate (not very often) I am in the process of making myself a chopper out of aluminium angle, wooden base and using the 9mm Stanley replacement blades. Will post a thread on it when complete Cheers Ron

Thank you very much, its just comments like these that encourage me to try for even higher levels of build quality Cheers Ron

:D:D ...... only spend about 3-4 most nights modelling (drawing & construction). The build seems faster if you have all the info & materials to hand and have decided on most appropriate order to construct the structure only contact I have with Chinese ladies is at the local bazaars, restaurants and woks here in Spain, and I don't think they are necessarily of the same calibre as those at Kader Cheers Ron

Thanks again Ian for your comments Cheers Ron

Thanks Only two photos? That is a mine of information, don't let it put you off - there is always a way if you have the will - go for it If you need help just ask Ron

Thanks for your comments I am trying to pay homage to those designers and craftsmen of the Victorian period, by sticking as close to the actual structural design and execution as possible and as the scaling allows Still a long way to go yet Ron

As an ex-Mancunian myself, and having had my first job at Mather & Platt in Newton Heath many years ago - all I can say is never ever give up, always aim high - everyone has a skill learnt from trial and error, the lesson is really to make use of it After only 6 years modelling I have still a lot to learn Ron

Cornbrook Viaduct - Bridge #2 - Support Structure A small break from the tedious fixing of lattice work, gave me the opportunity to start the decorative bridge supports Drawing of Decorative Bridge Supports Recent photos of existing bridge support and decorative bracing - the upper pillar decoration with a cross on each face is a recent modification © 65179 Drawing of decorative bracing Construction of bracing - 20thou plastic Part completed The rear face requires to be finished in a similar way A second bracing is required to complete the bracing assembly The build included finishing the detailing of the first cross bracing to the bridge support structure, and making the elliptical pillars 32mm uPVC pipe was found to have too thick a wall thickness to successfully form a suitable elliptical form, so decided to form the pillars from 20thou plasticard The circumference of a 32mm OD pipe is 100.5mm. I cut two pieces of plasticard 100.5mm x 220mm, rolled them carefully and placed them inside a piece of 28mm copper pipe. Placed the pipe in a container full of boiling water for 5 minutes. Removed the pipe, and the plastic roll from the pipe and immersed it in cold water. The resulting plastic roll was carefully butt jointed using the copper pipe as a support. A former was made from 60thou plasticard 36mm x 220mm and 27mm x 220mm cross-spliced to form the short and long diameters of the ellipse,. This was placed inside the plastic tube. The whole assembly was placed in boiling water for 2 minutes to relieve the stresses in the plastic tube, and smooth out the curvature of the elliptical tube The finished elliptical pillars with the detailed cross-bracing assembly The detailed cross-bracing Now to make one more cross-bracing, and assemble the bracings and pillars A couple of pictures of the completed lower section of the Bridge support structure - The support structure with the capitols added The holes in the insides of the capitol were used as a template for the visible crosses and slots, and subsequently used to vent the enclosed plastic capitols The upper part of the capitols will be provided with decorative tongues The bridge spans sit in the slots at the top of the capitols The lower portion of castellated section which will sit on the outer part of the capitols Produced in 20thou plasticard it is just 45mm long and 26mm high This item is sat on my glueing pad - 6mm plate glass - 200mm x 100mm with foam pads to prevent it moving across the cutting sheet Overhead view - showing internal construction Rear view The sloping faces and capping pieces are to be added next, then the rectangular decorative columns with the upper castellated sections will be built to finish the support structure Lower cappings added Sloping cappings added Side view Top cappings fitted Castellations added to lower support structure Close-up of detail One more to build and add, then upwards Still required, the top castellations to complete the build Close-up showing upper bracing Decoration on upper support faces Bridge span temporarily in place. ...... No, the far support structure is not part of the build Another view of the bridge span and support structure Close-up showing the detail of the upper bracing ... and this is one I made earlier , suitably weathered This a recent photo of the actual bridge support and adjacent spans © 65179 The upper castellations are complete and fitted The finishing touch to the support structure is the addition of the decorative ‘tongues’ below the upper and lower castellations These were made from 10thou & 20thou plastic card & strip A template for the decor was printed, and the basic outline cut from 20thou plastic card, and filed to a finished shape A second strip of 20thou plastic card was added, and filed to shape matching the main piece A strip of 20thou x 30thou was glued across the bottom of the second strip, and trimmed to suit A strip of 10thou x 2mm was the glued under the last strip, and trimmed to suit Similar decorative pieces were made, and then fixed into position around the capitols Now, it's back to constructing the remaining span beams ... to be continued >>>>>

Hi, Simon Thanks for your comments. Certainly not a daft question, but yes, as the deck is supported on beams running across between the top surfaces of the two lower span beams, it will be curved over its length Ron

CORNBROOK VIADUCT - BRIDGE #2 - Continuation The work on the bridge span was finished this weekend Completed Span with all lattice work in place, and top, bottom and end beams fitted Close-up Note: the span is curved vertically, with the centre being 3mm higher - To overcome bridge loadings as prototype .. the next builds will be second long span, and two smaller spans The next post will be the Bridge support structure .... .. to be continued >>>>>

Hi, Ian Yes, all by my own hands At your suggestion have visited these sites, and I may post in the future when time allows Ron

Hi, Ian Comments please on this drawing of the lattice work for your canal bridge You can see that the number of vertical braces is fewer than the prototype. However, I have kept the same vertical arrangements of the cross bracings If all is OK, I will PM you the suggested plastic sizes and construction method Ron

Hi, David Starting any project you will nearly always question your confidence, but soon you will grow in confidence with every step along the road The main thing is to be persistent in your endeavours Thanks for your comments and interest. Ron

Thanks for your praise and comments Ron

Thanks for your comments interest Ron

Hi, Ian Pics are OK Will post info. on your thread in a day or two, if thats OK Ron

Hi, Ian Are both bridge spans the same length ? I will produce a drawing for you, suggest plastic sizes, etc. and method of construction, if thats OK Ron