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richard60098

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Posts posted by richard60098

  1. Hi Jon right fela my squares just come through the letter box so good to go, i was actually going to say about leaving that V out on mine as it will make it very difficult for me to model with that feature.

     

    So then i'm now needing to cut some 40 thou yes? Whats the 36mm width and how long deep do i need to measure, i can't get the hang of it from the pics above.

     

    Also then are we going to cut the chassis in the middle and lenghten it so its the correct size?

     

    Cheers

  2. Right time to learn then, go and buy an A4 cutting mat a craft knife set, a 30cm steel rule, a 4" engineers square, and a packet of evergreen 20thou and another of 40thou sheet, then report back here. We will build one together.

     

    This

     

    attachicon.gifdia6_509 petcoke.JPG

     

    is the fella we are talking about correct?

     

    To aid my pre-work what is the length over buffers of the Bachmann POA?

     

    Jon

    Hi Jon and thankyou thats very kind of you sir :)

     

    Right then i have all above item's barring the engineer's square which i think i have one somewhere maybe two but will just get a new one as they could be in one of my shed's under pile's of tool box's.

     

    117 and a half mm is what i've just measured buffer to buffer on the Bachmann SSA Scrap chassis, also thanks for the drawing i got sent a load from a friend but unsure if i have the coke wagon on file?

     

    Cheers, Rich

  3. Ok no worries if you can that's great cheers, i was looking at the Lima grainflow wagon top thinking to add plasticard to that but the angle's and other features are all wrong so think it needs to be completely scratch built top sat on a Bachmann chassis.

     

    Its geting the corner's and area's were the sharp slant's meet thats my issue i have no cutting board or anything in the way of chopping blade on a measured top so anything i cut won't be neat and straight thus why i've not bothered as i know before trying that its gona look very rough if i just use a knife and metal ruler on the body part's!

  4. Hi Paul,

     

    I'm great with all type's of kit's but scratch building bits i'm not so great at and tbh they come out looking bodge'd & messy! :( i have draw's full of scratch built and similar wagon's which i just gave up on thus why i asked if anyone would be able to do the build for me of these or similar air brake Railfreight wagon's?

     

    I'd like to see pics of your's thou if you could post how you've done it here then it may give me the patience to try one as nobody has offered there service's or give me a contact who could do them as yet.

     

    Kind regards Rich

  5. Hi all, is there any modeller on here who's up for scratch building some wagon's? I'm after a couple really but a few of one type would be excellent.

     

    Can't see them been released ever tbh and thou i can build kits all day long my scratch building skill's are only good for modification's not actually making a wagon top on a Bachmann chassis! :(

     

    If anyone can help please let me know or drop me a PM to discuss price's and if there possible :)

     

    Thanks's Rich

  6. All looking great mate,

     

    On the 56 yes i'd defo have a go at bringing her up to date, etched grills and other available small parts will finish her nicely, i'd curtainly fit etched roof fans as thats the most noticeable feature which does look cool once fitted.

     

    "CF" Grid's were mega and i loved them all more so the wagon loads they pulled aswell, I have a couple here and i'm doing some re-numbers for friend too number wise i always go for 56060 & 56073 as there plates are stunning and your model has the correct big grill and lights on the front :) 032 / 054 would also be a nice choice but you'd have to change the front to achieve either of those two.

     

    Cheers.

  7. Thanks Rich.

     

    When I made the decision to attempt to make a business out of my hobby, I had a chat with Andy to check that everything would be okay, and explained that I am not using this thread to canvass for business, it's purely a continuation of documentation for the benefit of people that follow me. If I need to attract work through the hallowed pages of RMWEB (which I would rather not at the moment due to excessive workload!) Then I would go via the correct channels and pay for some advertising on an RMWEB banner. With the greatest of respect, I find that people that seem to get banned especially from a business perspective, have tried to ply their trade using the 'I'm not a trader this is just a hobby honest guvnor' sort of underhand approach. I have always found that being friendly, upfront and honest with people generally gets one on in life  :senile:

    Yes I have jumped in at the deep end doing a lot of things, but I have also been tinkering with models for 30 Years plus now. It gives one a decent grounding for all of this new fangled stuff!!

    All the best,

     

     

    Hi Lee,  ok with you fair enough chap all good :sungum:

  8. Hi Lee, all good and yes with you on the progress pics and everything else,

     

    It seems this site has changed a lot from in the last few years and its good to see you've got a big fan club already on here and everywhere else.

     

    As regards contributing most of my work is done from a banned member who was just doing the same as you are showing his work on here and helping others till he got told off for it and it led to them deleting his topics, it seems now a lot different from when i used to follow him and others on here as regards geting business from members and making a profit doing work and re-sprays for everyone which so many seem to be doing now!

     

    Anyway i'm following with interest and i like the way you've jumped in at the deep end doing lights and everything pritty much straight away.

     

    Rich.

  9. Hi Richard. As I said earlier, they are not the correct pattern shanks, but they are the correct diameter heads. A1 models for appropriate ones, but they are impossible to get a hold of. For the time being, these ones look much better than Bachmanns dustbin lids. I used masking tape for the black surrounds, but during the cleaning up process, I inadvertently caught the edges with thinners. They will be touched up before finally finishing.

    Perhaps it's time to add a disclaimer to all of my pictures stating 'THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS AND IS NOT THE FINISHED ARTICLE'

    Or should I just photograph the finished model to save having to explain everything? :-)

     

    And with regards to Maskol, the odd window dropping out whilst masking a batch of 15-20 locos doesn't bother me. It's effective, and a major timesaver.

     

     

    People seem to like looking at the model going through every stage but in some cases the time served modellers are only giving tips & hints away on how to do it from start to finish and with the major competition between you all now i think less is better and surely rather than faffing about taking 100's of time consuming pics wouldn't it be better to spend that time doing the work and just take final pics + like you say then you'll get less comments / won't have to keep replying on a "work in progress" set of pictures :sungum:

  10. Hi Lee,

     

    Are those wagon buffers suffice for a loco? The heads / oleo's look good but the rears surely would be bigger on a loco! Good to see everything geting lighting something i can't be bothered with far to fiddly! On the 37 the black boxs i see your struggling to get them straight / neat chap, why not try masking them off for a nice square finish?

     

    Also maskol is great for doing little weathering jobs but if your careful the glazing will come out of most loco's thus then not leaving a messy edge were the maskol has been hope that helps.

  11. Hi Simon,

     

    Starting reading through your thread last night and have now got to were your up too, some excellent gear on here especially the TCA & Tullis Russell PAA wagons.

     

    Love your Sulzers and all the other parts your working on too.

     

    I'm very tempted to just have some O Gauge wagons on display and would be more than happy to pay you what ever you want for a couple;-) is there any chance you could do the above wagons & others in 4mm scale too so i could run them?

     

    Keep up the stunning work,

     

    Best Regards,

     

    Rich

  12. Morning,

     

    Well it's been a while since i posted anything, i've been distracted with other things the past few months and never seemed to have any time for modelling:(

    I'm slowly getting back into it though and recently bought a dutch 37 body from Ebay which was sold as spares or repairs and was in a bit of a state with muck sprayed all over it and the glazing all clouded up.

     

    I cleaned it up and had ago at transforming it into 37087 circa 95 when the loco's body work was a bit patched up. It's nearly finished now i'm just replacing the glazing and touching up a few bits of weathering, here's a pic.

     

    Cheers

     

    Arnie

     

    Yep that looks well and truly fu**ed!

    • Like 1
  13. Rich, I agree, it's not a perfect kit and there is definitely room for improvement. Casting the whole box in one piece would be a good idea - I see no reason why this can't be done as the undercuts are not too challenging for nice flexible rubber to cope with. The under frame castings of the air tank and brake distributer are rather crude and could do with work. I've got some photos of the under frame that I took whilst crawling under one of these last year that I'll dig out and post up if that helps? What are your issues with the bogies other than the fact that the side frame castings are a bit crude?

     

    Regarding the hand wheels, I used Colin Craig's etched ones (sorry - not on the photo) which are finer and look miles better than anything you can do with a 3D printer or as a white-metal casting (as per the ones supplied with the S-kits kit).

     

    The prototype wagons ran with disk-braked Gloucester mark IV bogies (as per my model and WBF's photo on the previous page), Gloucester Fast-Freight bogies and Davies and Lloyd ESC1 clasp-braked bogies. Colin makes decent versions of the Gloucester MkIV and the ESC1 (fully compensated for P4!) so it'd be a bit silly to duplicate these. However there is a gap in the marker for a decent version of the Gloucester Fast Freight.

     

    Guy

     

    Hi Guy,

     

    Yes indeed the body would be better if in one piece as thy can be a right pain when glueing together! You get everything straight then it all goes t**s up when you glue them in place:(

     

    On the bogies yeh they look cool its just they don't stick out enough and tend to look to slim when the body pretrudes out over them but still good.

     

    Like yourself i think i'd rather fit C.C ethed brass wheels on everything and i've been through loads now they come in very handy for kit bashing even on RTR stuff they curtainly finish the wagon a lot better than any other type.

     

    Think i'll have to buy more / a lot more of these as my two just don't look good even mixed in with other stone wagons so a rake is needed to fully enjoy them going round.

     

    I do how ever have a small rake of JRA's and they look good finished with Precision decals TIPHOOK RAIL logo's.

     

    Your wagons are top notch btw chief really like checking in on your topics an looking through your pics, think i've turned more and more in to a wagon modeller now as i've sprayed that many loco's up and loco's for friends too that they get boring once you've got a small mixed fleet, the only problem is finding time to do the kit bashing nowadays but i try :no:

     

    Thanks

     

    Rich

  14. Hi matey,

     

    The TML wagons were as stated in all the posts used for channel tunnel, but they got everywhere by the early / mid 90's.

     

    I regularly saw them leaving Dove Holes quarry for Leeds Midland Road aswell as other places, they were regulars at P.F till the late 90's now they only come in via GBRF trains theres usually two in the green JNA formation and thats it.

     

    GBRF uses them in the North East on all kinds of workings thou in solid rakes, they also run off Warrington on the sand trip now too.

     

    Another train they used to be used on was the Cleveland Potash branch mainly behind pairs of "TE" 37/5's.

     

    While S-KITS does a resin kit myself and others don't like it! I have a couple here but there not to clever tbh, they don't come with the correct big style brake wheels and for some reason the bogies don't look to good under them too? I'm going to use Backy TEA bogies or Appleby when i re-do mine.

     

    Another nig that annoys me and my kit bashing friends is the body comes in 5 pieces, now why does George not just do it as a resin one piece body?

     

    So if your up for it we'd be more than happy to buy a load of these jumbo boxs off you sir :no:

     

    I was looking at using s-kits version to make a SHEERNESS STEEL JXA but even extending it wouldn't be right as the bodys are too different.

     

    Cheers

     

    Rich.

    • Like 1
  15. Hi WBF, well my Binliner containers are almost here. UPS tried to deliver them today but I have asked them to try and deliver to my girlfriends mum's address as I am out at work all day so fingers crossed I should have them in the next day or two all being well.

     

    Cheers Paul

     

    Looking forward to seeing them buddy, will be doing a few myself at some stage but got others omn the go 1st

    • Like 1
  16. Yep,

    One of the most important modelling decisions isn't it ?

    What to spend your time on..

     

     

    Eye,

     

    I made the mistake of selling of selling my rakes of kit bashed wagons as thought the RTR ones would be better? Now i'm slowly building up my kit build rakes again as prefer the look and the end result.

     

    Theres always something with RTR models that isn't quite right so atleast with the kit it usually is or its easier to modify

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